Harman Magnum Stoker - Hot Water Coil Hookup for Hot Water?

 
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e.alleg
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Post by e.alleg » Sun. Oct. 14, 2007 9:14 pm

good deal! I bought a lot of gate valves, swing checks, and spring flow-checks on ebay a while back. I saved like $200 easy.


 
Matthaus
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Post by Matthaus » Sun. Oct. 14, 2007 10:00 pm

beatle, let me know if you end up with any extras, I could use some on my science project. :)

I did get some spring loaded check valves, copper fittings, valves, and my pump on ebay, I agree great way to shop. :lol:

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 7:07 am

Now, I'm working on getting an Aquastat for ~$30 shipped on ebay. :)

matthaus, I'm pretty sure I'll have extras. once this science project is completed (hopefully in 2 weeks), I'll let you know what spare parts I have left :)

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 9:53 am

Hi guys,

Quick question. I seem to have misplaced the box with the installation hardware for my water coil. I only have the coil itself.

Can someone tell me what kind of hardware I use to secure the coil inside the stoker?

Do I use a high temp caulk?

Thanks!
Jeremy

 
Matthaus
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Post by Matthaus » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 9:57 am

You should have two nuts (yeah I know... :lol: ) and a washer for each threaded end of the coil. The nut and washer goes on the inside and then the other nut tightens the assembly from the outside. That way the coil is supported by the side of the stove.

Unless of course you have a coil that I never saw before... then might be different. :?

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 10:10 am

hahaha, ok thanks!

Do I use SS hardwrae for this?

 
Matthaus
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Post by Matthaus » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 10:19 am

SS Hardware is not required, if you do use it make sure you coat the threads with neverseize (available at autoparts stores) to enable disassembly! SS will gall if any small piece if metal gets in the threads.


 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 11:21 am

oh ok. Thanks!!!

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 2:22 pm

Hi guys,

Yet another question.

I was at Home Depot last week looking for a hot water tempering valve and I found one I thought I needed, but it said on the box "THIS IS NOT TO BE USED AS AN ANTI SCALD DEVICE"

Can someone tell me what they use to temper the household hot water at the domestic tank?

I found this for $100

http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Watts-Series-L ... 21/Cat/243

I was hoping for a $50 or less solution :)

 
Matthaus
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Post by Matthaus » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 2:49 pm

Here is one example:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=34062 ... O=30960070
only problem is it is only good for 150* F

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 3:09 pm

OK, so I read up and I think I know the difference between a tempering valve and an anti-scald valve.

Tempering valve: Use to regulate the hot water in the heating system into the hot water tank

Anti-scald: Used to regulate the domestic hot water out of the tank to prevent burning.

So the $1 million question is: Is it OK to use the tempering valve or should I use an anti-scald valve (aka thermostatic mixing valve)

Here are a bunch of thermostatic mixing valves on ebay.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus= ... age=search

Thoughts anyone?

 
Matthaus
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Post by Matthaus » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 3:23 pm

I like that one on ebay with the dial thermometer right on it, if you could get that at your desired price, that would be my pick.

I have a thermostatic valves have the advantage of putting out a set temp, while a tempering valve will mix based on a set valve position. variations in water input temp will vary the output temp for most valves of this type.

I guess the bottom line is it depends on what you want to accomplish (AKA requirements :lol: ). If you read up on the design characteristics on each it will probably become clear which type would best suit your needs.

See how much time these "little" science projects can consume?! But just think how much you are learning. :)

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Mon. Oct. 15, 2007 7:06 pm

no kidding huh? Talk about feature creep :)

That Leonard 210 only mixes up to 110F. :(
I'm looking at a Honeywell that mixes up to 145F. This way I can get it to 120F.

Yanche was right. Once you start to put the design on paper, the devil is in the details.....

 
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beatle78
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Post by beatle78 » Tue. Oct. 16, 2007 7:20 am

Does anyone know how to put in an Aquastat well?

I've never seen one before and the Well itself seems pretty deep. Does it need to be installed at a 90 degree turn in the 3/4" pipe?

Any pics would be greatly appreciated.

I just ordered this Aquastat
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Now I just need to go buy a Well and figure out how to install it.

Thanks,
Jeremy

 
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Post by Matthaus » Tue. Oct. 16, 2007 7:36 am

Hi Jeremy, most aquastat wells are installed in boilers where the depth is there to fit the probe. I would suggest a T installed close to the HW coil (on the outlet) so that the well threads into a threaded adapter soldered to the portion of the T that goes straight (or you can find a T that has sweat connections on the 2 connections that make the 90 and a 3/4 pipe thread on the other connection). That way the capillary sensor will be immersed in the water leaving the coil before it makes the first 90* bend.

Sorry no pics, have not yet installed my system.


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