Harman Magnum Stoker - Hot Water Coil Hookup for Hot Water?

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:08 pm

I'll look around. The last one I did came with a tube of blue gook. It may be silicone based now that I think about it.

Here is some immersion well stuff.

https://customer.honeywell.com/Techlit/ ... 8-0040.pdf

Didn't see anything on the gook in it though. Maybe that stuff should have gone on my brakes?
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:58 pm

Here you go, last line in description. "heat conductive compound" Again, not absolutely necessary, just increases accuracy and thus response.

http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGu ... E1067.html
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: Yanche On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:18 pm

When you buy a new bulb style temperature switch from Honeywell (with the option that includes a new well) you get a little tube of the conductive grease. It's the same stuff used in the electronics industry for getting good heat transfer to component heat sinks. If you have ever replaced an Intel microprocessor you will know what I mean. I don't use the stuff in my temperature sensor wells. Too messy. What you are trying to get is good heat transfer between the sensing bulb (male part) and the well (female part). Tight fit is best. Just like in other male female connections. :-) After inserting the bulb in the well I just push some aluminum foil in the well with the blunt end of a wooden barbeque skewer. I attempt to force copper to copper contact on one side of the bulb. There is no harm done if there isn't good contact. The switch is just not as responsive to temperature changes as it could be with good contract.
Yanche
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea

Visit Lehigh Anthracite

PostBy: beatle78 On: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:41 am

LsFarm wrote:The probe for the well will act like a finger sticking into the fitting or pipe. Provide a lot a room around the probe by using [for example] a 1" fitting instead of 3/4" so that the probe of the well will not restrict the water flow.

Once you get the well and try it into a few fittings you will see how restrictive it could be in a fitting that is 'just big enough'.


Greg L


OK, I think I get it. I bought a 1" TEE last night with 3/4" reducers. Hopefully that will be large enough to let the water through efficiently.
beatle78
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker KA-4

PostBy: beatle78 On: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:42 am

coaledsweat wrote:
beatle78 wrote:Also, can I use either a 1/2" or 3/4" well or is that determined by the size of the probe?


The well size is determined by your probe, it must fit snug. Also you should get some kind of gook with the well, it helps the heat transfer. It isn't critical but it makes it more accurate and responds quicker as the heat transfer is optimized.

OK, gotcha. I want to get a Well that fits the probe snug so there is solid metal to metal contact.

Thanks!

Jeremy
Last edited by beatle78 on Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
beatle78
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker KA-4

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:01 pm

beatle78 wrote:OK, I think I get it. I bought a 1" TEE last night with 3/4" reducers. Hopefully that will be large enough to let the water through efficiently.


You will have to go an inch or two beyond the TEE, as the probe well is probably deeper than the TEE is wide.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: beatle78 On: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:43 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
beatle78 wrote:OK, I think I get it. I bought a 1" TEE last night with 3/4" reducers. Hopefully that will be large enough to let the water through efficiently.


You will have to go an inch or two beyond the TEE, as the probe well is probably deeper than the TEE is wide.


OK thanks. If the Aquastat is not here by Sat, I'm gonna put a 5" extention on the TEE and cap it so I can plumb the rest of the project together. Then I can get a well to fit the probe next week or so.

Thanks!
Jeremy
beatle78
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker KA-4

PostBy: Matthaus On: Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:31 am

Wow! Jeremy, you have been busy while I have been gone. You have received a lot of great advice from coaledsweat, Greg and Yanche. I would recommend placing the extension on the T as shown below. That way the aquastat is going to sense accurately the temp leaving the coil (coaledsweat was explaining this in his answer).

Also I forgot about this little installation manual for installing a coil in a solid heating appliance. Just a little extra info to provide more tips on safety device placement.

http://www.meyermfg.com/domesticcoil-install.pdf

Enjoy the project. :)
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Matthaus
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite

PostBy: beatle78 On: Fri Oct 19, 2007 7:36 am

thanks matthaus!

I'm glad you said something, I was going to put the aquastat at the top of the TEE.

I'm going to read that article tonight.

I've attached rev 3 of how I intend to hookup my stoker this weekend. I put in all the components I tihnk I need and where they need to go on this drawing. (this is for plumbing only, electrical will follow.)


How far away from the stoker can I put the aquastat? The reason I ask is it will be a much cleaner installation if I have straight pipes running back behind the stoker and the aquastat is near the wall. It's ~4-5' run from the exit of the stove.

Is that OK to do?

Thanks,
Jeremy
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beatle78
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker KA-4

PostBy: Matthaus On: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:17 am

In my opinion (and you know what they say about opinions! :lol: ) best placement for good control would be right at the stove. If you notice boilers have the aquastat in the boiler itself if possible.

Are there any 90* els required at the stove (that is where I would put the T for the aquastat instead of a 90)? You should put the relief valve as close as possible to the heat source, so that is a possible location. Not sure what your installation looks like so I can't be much help on this. :roll:

Maybe Yanche or coaledsweat have some better ideas on this. :)
Matthaus
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite

PostBy: Yanche On: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:29 am

Put the both the Aquastat bulb well and the safety relief right at the Stoker supply line outlet. Close to the unit. Use the piping techniques I showed in my pictures. You want both the Aquastat and pressure relief to be at the hottest spot in the system. Of course you want both to be sensing water temperature not radiated heat. So depending on conditions you may need to shield radiated heat if there is a lot of it with a piece of metal.
Yanche
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea

PostBy: beatle78 On: Fri Oct 19, 2007 1:55 pm

ok thanks guys. I was afraid you would say to keep it close to the stove.

It just means more "stuff" out in the open.

I will be putting 90 elbows immediately coming out of the coil like wenchris did. [see attached pic]

I can replace one of the 90's with a 1" TEE.

The only difference would be that the aquastat would be horizontal and not vertical like yanche's pics. That's OK right?
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beatle78
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker KA-4

PostBy: Matthaus On: Fri Oct 19, 2007 2:22 pm

Since the sensing bulb is remote from the aquastat by some distance you can mount the aquastat in any orientation while installing the sense bulb as you described. The cleanliness of your install will be determined by the length of the sensing bulb capillary.

Have fun! :lol:
Matthaus
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Fri Oct 19, 2007 2:27 pm

I would have put the TEE in where the elbow comes out of the stove, but that should work fine. The box itself doesnt care how it is mounted as it will work no matter what.

Be very carefull not to kink or bend too sharply the little tube that connects the box to the probe. That will impair its function.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: beatle78 On: Sat Oct 20, 2007 10:50 am

Hi guys,

Do I have to install the coil on the right side of the stove (looking at the front) or can I install it on the left?

In my application, the left may better so I can conceal the pipes next to a wall.

Just a thought.
beatle78
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker KA-4

Visit Lehigh Anthracite