Plumbing Return Tappings on a S130

Plumbing Return Tappings on a S130

PostBy: watkinsdr On: Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:54 am

The S130 has two 1.5" return tappings---one on each side of the boiler. Do you typically split the return and direct return water to both returns (as required by some boilers); or, do you simply plumb one return? The installation manual isn't completely clear on this. The manual says: "A boiler drain should be inserted in the tapping on the opposite side of the boiler from the tapping used for the return." Using the word should implies it's optional---shall would say it's a requirement. I know some boilers require plumbing both returns. Many thanks in advance.
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S260 Boiler

Re: Plumbing Return Tappings on a S130

PostBy: Rob R. On: Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:04 am

Some reading on the subject: Woohoo!!! My Coal Gun has arrived!!!
Rob R.
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Rice
Other Heating: Dad's 1953 EFM Highboy

Re: Plumbing Return Tappings on a S130

PostBy: whistlenut On: Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:44 am

My .02 is to pipe it now when it is easy and brand new. Does the stratification occur in boiler corners? Perhaps, but if piped together and a balancing pipe installed back to the feed, you have covered all the bases.
When you visit a previous installation are many piped together?
No, but remember they are all a bid job, and it costs more and takes more time AND is not a plumbing that may be why you don't see it as much.
Old steam guys were famous for the dual AND balance piping, and probably they knew more than many of us.
I can assure you that when you rebuild a boiler and are pressure washing and cleaning out the internals, there is a sediment layer and packed-in corners where they aren't piped.
Velocity is less, so sediment occurs and over time can be substantial, depending on water quality and chemistry of the source. Do a pH test of the source if you can, and one of the boiler water....that is a good start.

Also, those plugs will come out very easily now, don't think so 30 years from now. Also replace the damned plugs with a nipple and a cap or valve if you choose to not pipe the two together. They should ship them with a 3" nipple and a cap, because anyone who has had to remove an old plug will be very skilled in the 4 letter word category. 'Fire wrench', rotary tools, sawzall, punches, heavy gloves and about an hour per plug on an especially good day. It may look pretty to have a flush plug, but it is a hidden PITA to everyone who works on it.

Koker must be disconnected by now, Dewey, remember to put that boiler in a position so that both ash doors will open when it sits flat on the surface. If we had time it would be mush easier to pour a pad larger than the unit dimensions to keep it dry on the bottom if there were water on the floor. If it's dry, no big deal.

On the boiler drain installed in one side taping: just use 'T' or an elbow that allows 1.5"X3/4"1.5". The 't' is usually much easier to find, but the elbow looks more 'pro.'
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA130's,260's, AHS130&260's,EFM900,GJ & V-Wert
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Franks,Itasca 415,Jensen, NYer 130,Van Wert
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska, EFM, Keystoker, Yellow Flame
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska, Keystoker-2,Leisure Line
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska, Gibraltar, Keystone,Vc Vigilant 2
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Ford, Jensen, NYer, Van Wert,
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwoods
Coal Size/Type: Barley, Buck, Rice ,Nut, Stove
Other Heating: Oil HWBB

Re: Plumbing Return Tappings on a S130

PostBy: watkinsdr On: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:04 pm

I'm going to plumb in both return tappings. Common sense told me to do it; but, I just needed some advice from the more experienced boiler folks here at the forum. Thanks again.

P.S. Pictures of the S130 installation will be available soon.
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S260 Boiler