Riteway 37 Flue Baffle

bja105 · Post by **bja105** » Fri. Apr. 08, 2011 11:42 pm

I bought a Riteway 37 today, for use at our weekend home/farm. Looking at the parts diagram, I don't think there is a flue baffle. I found a flue baffle available from several suppliers. What does it do, is it hard to install? Do I need it? I see a couple bolts that don't look like they are doing anything, so I think I can figure out where it goes. Does anyone have a picture of the inside of their riteway 37, or a Hitzer 82?

I plan to burn wood and bituminous coal that was mined here on the farm.

I also want to know what the minimum clearance is from the top of the stove. My basement is quite short.
Thanks
Jason

Coal$stayin america · Post by **Coal$stayin america** » Sat. Apr. 09, 2011 10:54 pm

Hello,

I too recently purchased a Riteway 37. I can't find an owners manual on the web or anywhere else. From what I have learned the stove has a built in damper that is manual and cuts the air intake into the stove based upon where you have the temp setting on the knob located below the stove pipe.

From what I have gathered on this forum I am currently installing both a manual damper and a barometric damper. I will not be using the built in intake damper due to its operation of turning the air on and off.

I am not an expert and I am sure the gentlemen on this forum will point you in the right direction.

Good luck,

Barry

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sun. Apr. 10, 2011 11:05 am

bja105 wrote:I bought a Riteway 37 today, for use at our weekend home/farm. Looking at the parts diagram, I don't think there is a flue baffle. I found a flue baffle available from several suppliers. What does it do, is it hard to install? Do I need it? I see a couple bolts that don't look like they are doing anything, so I think I can figure out where it goes. Does anyone have a picture of the inside of their riteway 37, or a Hitzer 82?

I plan to burn wood and bituminous coal that was mined here on the farm.

I also want to know what the minimum clearance is from the top of the stove. My basement is quite short.
Thanks
Jason

Is this what you are talking about?

Original Cast Riteway part.
Note: IT IS UPSIDE DOWN IN THIS VIEW.

.JPG | 9.2KB | RITEWAY_4.JPG

If you are handy, this could be made for cheap.

Similar to Riteway, Hitzer part is made of welded steel and is half a brick taller for deeper fuel bed.

.JPG | 119.3KB | Hitzer_82_Furnace.JPG

If you could imagine, w/o baffle heat would quickly take the SHORT route and exit straight up and out w/ little efficiency. Also it misses an opportunity to do a secondary burn (drilled air intake holes in flue channel)...wasting even more potential heat.

The purpose of this baffle is illustrated here. Basically it hold heat in top of stove longer and increases the path to exit.
More efficiency in heat extraction.

.JPG | 37.4KB | ritewayexample.jpg

Hitzer 82 minus baffle, bricks, grates and brick retainers.
Note: See Secondary burn air intake holes drilled in flue channel.

.JPG | 159.7KB | 80's Hitzer 82_2.JPG

Hitzer 82 is a knock-off of the original Riteway 37 after it was discontinued.

Much discussion here previously...enter some "SEARCH" terms in upper right corner of page here...you will get plenty of reading.

bja105 · Post by **bja105** » Sun. Apr. 10, 2011 5:17 pm

Thanks, I think that is the part. Is your stove shown with a self fabbed baffle?

My stove does not have the original brick retainer on the right (flue) side. The previous owner welded some L channel to make a new one, and I think that is when the flue baffle disappeared. Does it stay parallel and nearly flush with the right side, and make the flue gas enter the flue channel lower on the side of the stove?

Did you drill the secondary air holes in the flue channel, or are they factory? Do they accomplish much with room temp air at that location.

Thanks

bja105 · Post by **bja105** » Sun. Apr. 10, 2011 5:24 pm

Coal$stayin america, I have the original manual and sales brochure, I can photo them and email you, next weekend. I delivered the stove and paperwork to the farm Friday night, then came home to work and garden. I had a friend and his two sons help get it off of the truck and into the cellar.

One more question. The directions didn't list a clearance from the top of the stove, just the flue and sides. I have 31 inches from the top of the stove to the bottom of the floor joists. Too Close?

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sun. Apr. 10, 2011 9:18 pm

bja105 wrote:Thanks, I think that is the part. Is your stove shown with a self fabbed baffle? Not mine, another member's here stove.

My stove does not have the original brick retainer on the right (flue) side. The previous owner welded some L channel to make a new one, and I think that is when the flue baffle disappeared. Does it stay parallel and nearly flush with the right side, and make the flue gas enter the flue channel lower on the side of the stove? Yes, exactly.

Did you drill the secondary air holes in the flue channel, or are they factory? Factory
Do they accomplish much with room temp air at that location. By design they're supposed to. Actually, the sloped bricks are in that position to super heat that "zone" to get it done. Some gases from the front and some from the back.

One more question. The directions didn't list a clearance from the top of the stove, just the flue and sides. I have 31 inches from the top of the stove to the bottom of the floor joists. Too Close? I would put some 1" long pipe spacers behind some sheet metal to act as a heat shield above stove area extended in all directions.

Thanks

Coal$stayin america · Post by **Coal$stayin america** » Sun. Apr. 10, 2011 10:34 pm

bja105 If you would copy the manual I would really appreciate it! I would like to read the operating instructions. Thanks.

Peiable · Post by **Peiable** » Tue. Nov. 08, 2011 8:16 pm

If either of you or anyone else is interested in selling their Riteway #37 stove (if in "good" condition) please contact me at [email protected] We have heated with ours for 30 yrs but it is pretty well worn out and we are looking to try and replace it. Thanks! Carol

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Tue. Nov. 08, 2011 10:04 pm

I do still see them around occasionally, as matter of fact, I seen one go at an auction today for $190.00...two Amish where bidding on it till one of them stopped.

It was a pretty nice unit...I was tempted to bid, but the Amish are hard to beat...a lot of times I end up being second best when trying to bid against them.

Alderson · Post by **Alderson** » Wed. Jan. 24, 2018 11:12 am

Can you cover the baffle area with a solid sheet of steel? I don't have the measurements for the original does anyone have them? The original had a little insert plate held in with two pins. Could a welding shop make similar? Please help. Connie