Coalgun- Puff backs & Explosions

lsayre wrote:

Bob wrote:Thanks for posting the response.

I think it is a bit puzzling that AHS makes no mention of the information that has been in the Axeman manual for 50 years--that improper "thickness of the fire" can cause puff-backs and that with an AHS boiler with the thermograte option the way to adjust the thickness of the fire is by changing SV.

Am I understanding this correctly that at SV=140 the fire column should be thicker (less ash bed below the hot coals), and at SV=120 it should be thiner (more ash bed below the hot coals)?

Yes.

.o4 while idling and .06 or .07 while running?

dchartt wrote:.o4 while idling and .06 or .07 while running?

The draft spec for the AHS is at idle and the barometric damper should be adjusted to maintain .04 at idle. Depending on your chimney, wind, etc the draft it idle may drop below .04 but should not go above .04 at idle.

My baro damper is just beginning to open at 0.04", and is well opened at 0.05". Is that correct, or should I adjust for a bit more draft?

lsayre wrote:My baro damper is just beginning to open at 0.04", and is well opened at 0.05". Is that correct, or should I adjust for a bit more draft?

Since you seem to be one of the few with no puff-backs, I would leave it alone.

markviii wrote:

lsayre wrote:My baro damper is just beginning to open at 0.04", and is well opened at 0.05". Is that correct, or should I adjust for a bit more draft?

Since you seem to be one of the few with no puff-backs, I would leave it alone.

Still no puff-backs so far. This morning I just checked and I'm only at 0.025" of draft right now at idle. It is quite calm here right now and a balmy 52 degrees as of 6:00 AM. Should that be a major concern?

is anyone running 6 inch flue pipe on their s130? im pretty sure my plumber has my whole freaking setup messed up, i toldem it took 5 and he ordered 6 and he even had the manual in his possession, my coalgun is up in my barn, well my circulator pump he put in my basement, he has my thermostat hooked up to my pump through a acquastat also in the basement, so when my thermostat calls for heat my pump kicks on, now if that drops my boiler temp way down to say 100 my pump doesnt shut off it keeps pumpin cold water, and with the 6inch flue pipe im gettin all kinds of flyash gathering in my barometric damper, and i also just noticed when my boiler just started to fire i have smoke coming out of the top of my flue pipe outside, i couldnt believe it, i really need help, im burning like a 100lb a day and its not really cold at all here

dchartt wrote:now if that drops my boiler temp way down to say 100 my pump doesnt shut off it keeps pumpin cold water, and with the 6inch flue pipe im gettin all kinds of flyash gathering in my barometric damper, and i also just noticed when my boiler just started to fire i have smoke coming out of the top of my flue pipe outside, i couldnt believe it, i really need help, im burning like a 100lb a day and its not really cold at all here

It sounds like you have some control issues, and possibly flue gas condensation...which could create "smoke" (probably water vapor) you are seeing. I would either move the circulator to the boiler room and control it with an aquastat, or install a mixing valve on your boiler piping to keep the return temperature above 140 degrees.

How about taking some pictures of your setup in the boiler room and in the basement, then creating a new thread to discuss.

ok, i do have a mixing valve but its setup to keep my pex below 180, im going to take pictures right now

dchartt wrote:ok, i do have a mixing valve but its setup to keep my pex below 180, im going to take pictures right now

Sounds good. Just create a new thread and we will go from there.

dchartt wrote:if the temp doesnt go down its locked, theres 2 buttons on the left of the up n down arrows,

dchartt,

My Fuji controller only has one button to the left of the up and down buttons and I can't unlock it. Anyone else out there with any ideas how to unlock the controller to lower my as temps?

rychw wrote:

dchartt wrote:if the temp doesnt go down its locked, theres 2 buttons on the left of the up n down arrows,

dchartt,

My Fuji controller only has one button to the left of the up and down buttons and I can't unlock it. Anyone else out there with any ideas how to unlock the controller to lower my as temps?

Follow the directions in the attachment.

Thanks Bob. Will follow and reprogram. I have had no booms this week but I have been monitoring the boiler when it runs and shutting off the grate switch manually when the grate runs without the fan running, or there is no fire in the tube and the grate is dumping and adding fresh coal. The silence from AHS on this thread is un-nerving. I hoped that they would jump in and try to help us figure this explosion problem out, but it appears we have do so by trial and error.

sorry i dont have the fugi controls, my are the love controls

i also manually operated my boiler the same way, seemed like everything got a little worse as far as ashing, it never ashed when it shouldve thus not bringing the fire closer to the grate and heating the grate temp up which caused it to want to ash more often because the temps were low which cause more unburnt coal in my ashpan