AHS S130 Coalgun- Puffbacks & Explosions

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Feb. 16, 2013 10:32 pm

rychw wrote:I had another big explosion last night so I reduced the grate motor speed to 30%. I hope that the slower speed will prevent too much coal being added to the tube too fast. If I continue to have explosions, I'm going to install the timer system that Yanche has been using. Again, I feel that the thermo ash system is flawed as installed and programmed. The ash temperature is far less important than the tube temperature and the timing and method of adding coal is flawed. There should be a method of removing the coal gas before it ignites. Just some thoughts.
*rychw*,
What does the ashing motor's nameplate state for your motor rpm?

Other Owners of Coal Guns,
What does the ashing motor's nameplate state for other's motor rpm?


 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 6:49 am

McGiever wrote:I came across the info on the Percentage Timers I believe that are used on the AHS Coal Guns and thought I'd share. :)
Paragon Timer.pdf
JW Series.pdf
I don't believe these are currently available.

The Intermatic 8815 seems to be the only remaining 10 minute repeat cycle timer that is both available and capable of handling the load. The Tork EJWT that I purchased will not work, since it resets and begins counting time all over again each time the current to it is dropped. What is needed is a timer that does not reset if/when the current is dropped to it (as would happen each time the fan shuts off).
Last edited by lsayre on Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:15 am

Is there no factory option for ashing but the Dywer/Love controller presently?
Last edited by McGiever on Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:28 am, edited 5 times in total.

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:18 am

McGiever wrote:Is there no factory option for ashing but the Dywer/Love controller presently?
I believe that to be accurate. All Coal Guns are Thermo Ash Monitoring models now to my knowledge.
Last edited by lsayre on Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by blrman07 » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:21 am

rychw wrote:... The ash temperature is far less important than the tube temperature and the timing and method of adding coal is flawed. There should be a method of removing the coal gas before it ignites. Just some thoughts.
Finally someone is on the road to clarity with this. I am not an engineer but it seems to me that trying to control your coal feed by ash temperature is equal to repeatedly hitting your head against a wall and then wondering why the wall doesn't move. :bang: :bang: :bang:

 
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McGiever
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:32 am

lsayre wrote:
McGiever wrote:I came across the info on the Percentage Timers I believe that are used on the AHS Coal Guns and thought I'd share. :)
Paragon Timer.pdf
JW Series.pdf
I don't believe these are currently available.

The Intermatic 8815 seems to be the only remaining 10 minute repeat cycle timer that is both available and capable of handling the load. The Tork EJWT that I purchased will not work, since it resets and begins counting time all over again each time the current to it is dropped. What is needed is a timer that does not reset if/when the current is dropped to it (as would happen each time the fan shuts off).
As far as using an after market controller and the issue of load, any controller (even a timer based one) could be made to work, even if that controller could not handle the ashing motor's amperage, by controlling a relay that would handle the higher amperage. Actually using a relay is exactly what the Coal Gun with the Love unit does already. :)

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:39 am

I believe that the Coal Gun incorporates a very pricey "Safety Relay", not just an ordinary off the shelf relay. As I recall, this is to prevent the contacts from burning and fusing on the aquastats when the fan kicks on. If the current to the fan motor is dictating when it should ash via a timer (or via ash temperature), then everything is related to the load of the 1/2 HP fan motor, not the 1/25 HP ashing motor.


 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 8:45 am

lsayre wrote:I believe that the Coal Gun incorporates a very pricey "Safety Relay", not just an ordinary off the shelf relay. As I recall, this is to prevent the contacts from burning and fusing on the aquastats when the fan kicks on. If the current to the fan motor is dictating when it should ash via a timer (or via ash temperature), then everything is related to the load of the 1/2 HP fan motor, not the 1/25 HP ashing motor.
Okay, but still is a non-issue, just use that "Safety Relay", and have the new/replacement controller control that "Safety Relay". :)

I don't have a "Safety Relay" on my Axeman...it's seems to be fine. ;)

Edit to add:
I just revisted wiring diagram, relay is Solid State Relay, which is compatible w/ the Love control's DC voltage output. They are matched to be compatible.
I still believe an off the shelf relay would work w/ another controller...nothing special required.

 
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Post by rychw » Sun. Feb. 17, 2013 3:56 pm

*rychw*,
What does the ashing motor's nameplate state for your motor rpm?

My motor builders plate says 2 RPM so I have effectively reduced the speed by 70% or .6 revolutions per minute.

 
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Post by KLook » Mon. Feb. 18, 2013 7:15 am

I am not an engineer but it seems to me that trying to control your coal feed by ash temperature is equal to repeatedly hitting your head against a wall and then wondering why the wall doesn't move. :bang: :bang: :bang:
I was scolded by the master, Sting, once for suggesting controlling the stoker motor of my VF3000 by return water temp in an attempt to get it to react quicker to cold water flowing to it. The sensors are on the top and it was to late once it came on. I solved mine with constant flow loop back to return side and electronic controls on certain zones that sap the the water completely. I am a big fan of gadgets and sensors and controls, but they clearly are not working outside of the AHS lab in this case.
AHS is not going to come in and approve a type of solution that requires ditching the system you bought and installing a homeowner built timer/relay one in its place. Until a lawsuit is filed over the present approved system, they have no liability and are not going to assume any by approving an alternate system built by Joe Shmoe, the homeowner or other clever guy. Document the damage and file as a group. It is the only way to make a corporation respond.

Kevin

 
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Post by Dennis » Mon. Feb. 18, 2013 7:37 am

KLook wrote:AHS is not going to come in and approve a type of solution that requires ditching the system you bought and installing a homeowner built timer/relay one in its place. Until a lawsuit is filed over the present approved system, they have no liability and are not going to assume any by approving an alternate system built by Joe Shmoe, the homeowner or other clever guy. Document the damage and file as a group. It is the only way to make a corporation respond.
I certinly hope it dosen't come down to this action.I'm also certin AHS is working on this problem and trying to find a solution.I'm also certin if AHS admits to the problem,then there liaible for damage and once they do find a solution they will make good on it. AHS is a great company and will resolve this problem. JUST MY OPINION

 
KLook
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Post by KLook » Mon. Feb. 18, 2013 9:26 pm

I certainly hope it doesn't come down to this action.I'm also certain AHS is working on this problem and trying to find a solution.I'm also certain if AHS admits to the problem,then there liable for damage and once they do find a solution they will make good on it. AHS is a great company and will resolve this problem. JUST MY OPINION
I just hope one of you isn't the damage they become liable for at some point when the barometric or other piece takes someone in the head. Some things take time to fix, but selling a bomb for your basement is risky for a business. It would seem that Yanche has it solved anyways. Twice. ;) \

Kevin

 
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Post by macdabs » Tue. Oct. 29, 2013 11:54 am

I just got done making sure my S-260 is ready for this years heating season . I ended up replacing some of my double wall stainless chimney after noticing the seam was splitting on the first 4 ft section from the puff-backs from last year. I also had to replace the cap it was all bent out of shape also. :sick: :sick: I lost two Rc Baro dampers , 4ft double wall pipe, chimney cap and one t- single wall cap in the two heating seasons so far. I got to admit I am a little nervous on this years heating season and was curious if I am the only one with the same concerns . The fact the company is changing hands again makes me a little nervous also.

Mac

 
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Tue. Oct. 29, 2013 1:25 pm

The company is reverting back to previous owners. In fact, this is a good thing.

 
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Post by greenftechn » Tue. Oct. 29, 2013 1:31 pm

I want to apologize to folks who have been looking for answers on the puff back issue and have not been seeing company rep participation in the forum. First, regarding the ownership issue mentioned by the previous poster, I want to let you know that the company has come back to Jeff and Phyllis Gingerich, who stewarded the company during the best ten years of its existence, in my opinion.

Regarding puff backs, proper draft is the key. As long as we are maintaining the minimum .04 in, we will be removing volatiles from the top of the coal pot that are the source of the puff backs and explosions. A number of factors can interfere with attaining this minimum. The chimney may be cold, of insufficient height or in a poor location. Reduced duty cycles in the early and late parts of the heating season can lead to cold flues. If proper draft cannot be maintained, a draft inducer (power vent) should be installed. If the power vent is the main source of draft, apart from having natural draft, back up power must be in place.


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