Keystoker-removing gear motor

Keystoker-removing gear motor

PostBy: byrdy11 On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 10:16 am

Hey all!
I have one thing left to do with my keystoker before I fire it up.....and I want to do that this weekend. My gear motor was jammed again when I test drove the unit two weeks ago. When I had my coal delivered I had the expert check it out and he told me to just take out the two screws, remove the gear motor, vacuum and reinstall. He made it sound really simple but I'm sort of worried about doing it. How hard is it? He said I may need to pull on the bar (threaded nut thingy?) to get it to come out once I remove the screws. Anyone have any advice for me? I"m going to tackle it tonight after the kiddies are in bed so I am not distracted. He told me to just slide it back in after I clean it and put the screws back and that's it. Really? I'm skeptical.
Thanks in advance!
-Deb
byrdy11
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: keystoker 90
Coal Size/Type: rice

PostBy: Matthaus On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 10:32 am

Based on the Keystokers I have owned I can offer the following:
1. empty the hopper
2. remove the four (or 2, depending on your stove) screws on the side that hold the stoker motor bracket to the stove (edited thanks to Chris :), the one I have here has 4)
3. pull the entire assembly out the back of the slot (motor, and pusher block with the adjustment screw on it), the motor and plastic cam will seperate from the pusher block
4. clean the entire slot thouroughly with a small wire brush and vacuum
5. inspect the small nylon screws on the side of the pusher block for wear, replace if needed
6. reinsert the stoker motor/cam assembly into the pusher block and slide the entire assembly back into the slot.
7. reinstall the 4 screws and verify operation
8. enjoy the warmth!

hope this helps, post back if any problems, have fun! :) :)
Last edited by Matthaus on Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Matthaus
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line WL110 Dual Fuel, natural gas
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Lil' Heater (rental house)
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Buckwheat Anthracite

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 10:33 am

Be sure that the motor and whatever it is supposed to turn does so freely. There may be some resistance, but it should turn. If not you could have a jam in the stoker mechanism (chunk of coal?) or the gearbox (not likely, but you need to check). Motors (especially pool pumps) can get stuck after a long rest, a little lube won't hurt either.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea


PostBy: europachris On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:16 am

Added clarification - to get the stoker motor out, there are (2) two screws, one on each side. The motor along with the pusher block will come out of the stoker assembly as a whole. After that, you remove the stoker motor from the plate with (4) screws in case it needs replacement.

My stoker had the nylon screws all melted out of it, and also the cam had been melted (and replaced) at some point. Otherwise, it was in good shape. I re-tapped the threads and installed new nylon fillister-head screws (McMaster-Carr).

It really is quite a nice design they have.

Chris
europachris
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 350/Iron Fireman
Stove/Furnace Model: Custom bituminous burner

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:27 am

europachris wrote:My stoker had the nylon screws all melted out of it, and also the cam had been melted (and replaced) at some point. Otherwise, it was in good shape. I re-tapped the threads and installed new nylon fillister-head screws (McMaster-Carr). Chris


Do they use Nylon so they shear to prevent damage in a jam-up?
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: europachris On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:30 am

coaledsweat wrote:


Do they use Nylon so they shear to prevent damage in a jam-up?[/quote]

Nope, the screws (two per side) are just to keep the pusher block aligned and spaced properly within the stoker housing. Nylon due to naturally being slippery and wear resistant. You want to adjust them so the block just slides freely in and out without binding. Too loose (or missing) and the block just flops around and doesn't really push the coal effectively.
europachris
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 350/Iron Fireman
Stove/Furnace Model: Custom bituminous burner

PostBy: byrdy11 On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:10 pm

Oh god, I hope I can figure this out. I hope nothing is melted!
byrdy11
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: keystoker 90
Coal Size/Type: rice

PostBy: WNY On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:29 pm

The screws are either on the side or the bottom, the stoker gearbox unit should come out at one piece...

Just don't take the actual gear box apart! if you do, be carful. There are a ton of reduction gears in there and if you mess that up.... :(
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon

PostBy: ken On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 12:30 pm

like Chris wrote its easy. i did it from a wheelchair lol you can see the stoker cam in there. just make sure the push bar moves easy. mine had some gasket material binding it up. i trimed it off and adjusted one nylon screw for more free play. just keep push the bar in and out , without the motor in. i took some fine sandpaper to clean the crap off the bar and where it slides. the stoker motor should never move when the stove cycles. i didn't like the 2 mountings screws. i'm going to replace the with phlipshead screws and add a lock washer. when mine was jamming , it loosed up both screws. :shock:
ken
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker - Rice Coal
Stove/Furnace Model: 75K - Bay Window - Direct Vent

PostBy: gaw On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 5:44 pm

europachris wrote:My stoker had the nylon screws all melted out of it, and also the cam had been melted (and replaced) at some point. Otherwise, it was in good shape. I re-tapped the threads and installed new nylon fillister-head screws (McMaster-Carr).
Chris


To quote from Keystoker's literature.
"NYLON CAM MELTS
Under normal operating conditions, nylon cam will not melt. Melting of nylon cam can only be caused by a draft problem.
1. Blockage in exhaust system
2. Excessive draft - Draft needs to be set with draft gauge to -.02"


byrdy11; If you would like I can scan to pdf a copy from a Keystoker manual with illustrated instructions for "how to change a gear motor"
Because this may be copyrighted material I don't want to post it on the forum but I'll e-mail it to an e-mail address if you pm me with one.
gaw
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice from Schuylkill County

PostBy: europachris On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:51 pm

gaw wrote:To quote from Keystoker's literature.
"NYLON CAM MELTS
Under normal operating conditions, nylon cam will not melt. Melting of nylon cam can only be caused by a draft problem.
1. Blockage in exhaust system
2. Excessive draft - Draft needs to be set with draft gauge to -.02"


Heh, blockage in exhaust system.....on my stove, the entire thing was a blockage, from one end to the other. :evil: It was chronically constipated with fly ash and coal particles.

I have since given it the proverbial enema, and all should be well now.... :P :P

Oh, I was also told by Keystoker to run -.04 draft with the direct vent.

Chris
europachris
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 350/Iron Fireman
Stove/Furnace Model: Custom bituminous burner

PostBy: gaw On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 11:50 pm

europachris wrote:
Oh, I was also told by Keystoker to run -.04 draft with the direct vent.

Chris


I'll have to remember that. I have a used direct vent recently acquired to heat the shop. This will be my first tinkering with that setup. I was thumbing through the installation guide today and found the info I posted earlier. Stumbled on it as a matter of coincidence and thought I would share.
gaw
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice from Schuylkill County

Got it done...

PostBy: byrdy11 On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 10:51 am

Just finished....it wasnt hard, but took me a while because even though I cleaned all the coal out from around the plate it would not come out. I had to get a long flat piece of wood and use a hammer (from the stove door end) to force it out the back. I figured something had to break but once I had it out an inch or so I could pull the whole thing out. I set the motor down and cleaned the plate with the push bar, then wire brushed the whole inside of the 'chute'...that was a mess......a mess. Then I took out the four other screws and cleaned all the coal fines that were gunked around the cam. The cam looked ok. But I didnt see any nylon anything other than the cam. Does this sound normal? I should have taken pictures to post because I didnt see ANY nylon screws guys.....none. All mine were just regular screws. What does that mean? After I cleaned it I just put the whole thing back together and it slid right back in place. I changed my air filters on the combustion motor, cleaned up and went back to my coffee....The screws that hold the whole assembly to the stove body seem really cheesy.....after an initial turn with teh screwdriver I got them out by hand.....that doesnt seem right, but, whatever.
Have a good weekend!
-Deb
Thanks a BUNCH for the advice.
byrdy11
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: keystoker 90
Coal Size/Type: rice

PostBy: europachris On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:08 am

Your nylon screws on each side of the pusher block might have been replaced by steel screws, or maybe they were steel right from the beginning? Hard to say.

I've attached a picture of my stoker block showing the white nylon screws.

Chris
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europachris
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 350/Iron Fireman
Stove/Furnace Model: Custom bituminous burner

PostBy: byrdy11 On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 1:58 pm

You know, looking at your picture, I realize that I dont have any screws there at all. The pusher bar was what was jamming up on me all along and nothing was wrong with the motor. The pusher bar has a slot that fits over the cam and the whole thing slides in and the two screws hold it to the stove. There are no screws for mine in that region where I see yours. Different stove (mine is a keystoker 90) I guess. When I look in there I can see the four screws that hold the motor to the plate-I took that apart and cleaned out the coal ash that put it all back together. I found the manual for my stove and the only thing I did wrong was I didnt disconnect teh wires from the motor. It is a pretty neat design.
byrdy11
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: keystoker 90
Coal Size/Type: rice