MK II firebox size

MK II firebox size

PostBy: chet On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:29 pm

Well I think tomorrow I may make the move on either a MK I or a MK II. like I mentioned I have a well insulated 1500 sq ft home. and I feel the MK may do it, but But as someone did mention about a bigger stove like the next size up, the MK II you can always dampen it off, lets say I get a MK II and install thicker firebrick to reduce the firebox size, will this be more effective than dampening off a standard size MK II. when I look in a MK I stove in the showroom, the size does not grab me, seems like the stove will need tending more frequently than the MK II.


Chet
chet
 

PostBy: Cap On: Fri Oct 12, 2007 8:16 pm

Either unit will work for your application. The bigger stove will provide you with some additional piece of mind, go for it. As for daily maintenance, both will need to be shake down 2 maybe 3 x a day. both will need to be filled twice a day.

You may find, the room in which you place the stove can become quite hot, so plan accordingly.

Keep in mind, heating systems are designed for the coldest day of the year. If The Mark 1 will heat 1400 sq ft at 5 F, it'll certainly work on a 32F day.

I have my large unit down to half capacity, This rates it at 50,000 btu's. I heat a 3600sq ft well insulated house without problem until around Dec 1. Then I increase the box to 80% capacity.
Cap
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator

PostBy: coal berner On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 1:09 am

Hey chet like cap said and i said in the other post either one will work

for you The Mark I will do 1.400 sq.ft. at 48.000 B.T.U. with the 76 C.F.M

Blower The Mark II will do 1.900sq. ft. at 72.000 B.T.U. with the same

76 C.F.M. Blower The Mark III will do 2.400sq.ft. at 92.000 B.T.U. with

a 135 C.F.M. Blower And your house is 1.500 sq. ft. I would Vote for

Mark II A liitle more is better then not enough Heat Plus it depend on

The Price between the two Also but Either one will work for you Good

luck on your Choice And Purchase Keep us Posted :)
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Visit Hitzer Stoves

It is a MK II

PostBy: chet On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 2:10 pm

I was ready to go and pick up the MK II at my local dealer, I looked in the Paper Shop here in the NE PA area and there was a newly advertised MK II, I went to look at it and it is in above average condition, internals look good and the grates are excellent, it needs a paint job, one thing I noticed that my MK III does not show is the shaker handle is still tight after 10 or better yrs of service, the shaker handle on this MK II I purchased this AM is hanging out, the plate with the 2 bolts that mounts the shaker handle are tight but thers is a gap between that plate and the stobe body, is there some way I can make adjustments or repairs to bring the shaker handle back to original position, I don't think anything is broke, cause the grate system shakes properly. also it is a rare top vent model which I like. also came with the brass trim, which needs a GOOD cleaning, any ideas how to clean the brass finish effectively, it his coating fairly thick or solid, can it be sanded without the worrying of getting down to the cast iron finish under the brass finish.


Thanks
Chet
chet
 

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 3:36 pm

Congratulations chet !! I'm sure you will like the 'new' stove. Please post a photo of the sloppy or worn shaker handle. A photo will help immensely with figuring out how to do what you want to do.
We have several members here who are capable of fabbing parts if needed.

NOW a really neat trick for cleaning brass: toilet bowl cleaner !! Really, I'm not kidding. I've taken a brass part that was black and crusted, soaked in either Lysol, or 'the works' or similar toilet bowl cleaner in a dishpan, and it comes out clean, but kind of reddish like copper, this reddish film comes right off with almost any form of silver or brass polish.

I use 'semichrome' polish, I've also used 'brasso' polish for the 'final' color and shine.

You may be able to make a lot of progress on the door and trim by using rubber gloves, and very fine, 000 or 0000 steel wool and the toilet bowl cleaner. The steel wool will act like a sponge to carry the liquid to the pieces. Put down plastic and layers of newspapers to soak up the spillage.

I've used the toilet bowl cleaner on brass parts off of antique cars, and on Nickle plated parts as well.

You said the stove is a top vent, is the a baffle plate between the fire and the vent? Something like a flat plate open near the front of the stove?

Greg L
Last edited by LsFarm on Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

baffle plate

PostBy: chet On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 4:59 pm

Hi greg

I did not get the stove home yet, I am waiting for some of my friends to call and give me hand loading the stove, but as for the baffle, If I recall looking in the top flue hole there was a baffle there

Chet
chet
 

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:44 pm

Hi chet, is the stub for the shaker grate square and the plate that goes over it have a matching square hole?? Harman may have a replacement plate available with the square hole that is original size, not worn.

Or you may be able to file the flats on the shaker grate stub nice and square, and square up the hole. then slide some steel shims in the gap to take up the slack. How is the the plate held on the stub? a bolt through the end??

Greg L

.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: chet On: Sun Oct 14, 2007 1:36 pm

LsFarm wrote:Hi chet, is the stub for the shaker grate square and the plate that goes over it have a matching square hole?? Harman may have a replacement plate available with the square hole that is original size, not worn.

Or you may be able to file the flats on the shaker grate stub nice and square, and square up the hole. then slide some steel shims in the gap to take up the slack. How is the the plate held on the stub? a bolt through the end??

Greg L

.


HI Greg

Well I got the MK II in my driveway, been sanding it most of the morning, getting ready to paint it, as for the shaker handle, the handle assembly has 2 bolts that secure it to the plate that has a rod welded to it and goes thru the firebox and has another are welded on the inside the arm goes down, I can fix it, but will have to sawzall the old one off, but it works and I may leave it be for this year, and look into it next season.


Chet
chet
 

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sun Oct 14, 2007 2:38 pm

Do you think the shaker handle had too much 'torque' applied to it and put a twist in the rod going through the box wall to the internal linkage?

If there is a rock or hard clinker in the ash, or a piece of unburnt coal, these can get caught inbetween the teeth of the grates, and jamb them. Many stove owners recommend short 'choppy' quick movements of the shaker handle rather than long smooth movements. The longer movements can open the gap in the grates too far, inviting a piece to jamb the grates. You are trying to shake the powdery-ash down into the pan, and let the weight of the coal bed crush the more solid ash into powder.

Glad you got your stove home, get some help moving it into the house. Or at least use a dolly, don't strain your back!! { happens all too often to me, I still think that I'm in my 20's1 ]

got any photos yet??

Greg L

.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: chet On: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:51 pm

LsFarm wrote:Do you think the shaker handle had too much 'torque' applied to it and put a twist in the rod going through the box wall to the internal linkage?

If there is a rock or hard clinker in the ash, or a piece of unburnt coal, these can get caught inbetween the teeth of the grates, and jamb them. Many stove owners recommend short 'choppy' quick movements of the shaker handle rather than long smooth movements. The longer movements can open the gap in the grates too far, inviting a piece to jamb the grates. You are trying to shake the powdery-ash down into the pan, and let the weight of the coal bed crush the more solid ash into powder.

Glad you got your stove home, get some help moving it into the house. Or at least use a dolly, don't strain your back!! { happens all too often to me, I still think that I'm in my 20's1 ]

got any photos yet??

Greg L

.


I know what you mean about still being in the 20's, well I just turned 52 last week and I am looking forward to retirement. but I am going to make a dolly at work this week, it took me 3-4 hrs just cleaning the brass, but I will take some pics later in the week. going to put a fire in it tomorrow evening in my driveway and cure the paint, and maybe get some help and bring it in the house on Tuesday, the rest on the week at work will be long hours getting a printing press running!

Chet
chet
 

PostBy: coal berner On: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:33 am

Hey chet congrats on your purchase that Mark II should do the Job for

you as far as your heating needs Another good product to use for the

brass that was not mentioned is Flitz metal cleaner works on all metal

fiberglass tile ceramic it comes in a tube or bottle they make it in a paste

or liquid they also make it in a wipe towel

works real well they also make a metel polish to put on after the cleaner

it will pertect the brass from getting dull & dirty give it a try you will like

it Very easy to Apply Good luck with your new Harman Mark II
coal berner
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520

Visit Hitzer Stoves