Who Burns Year-Round?

The boiler idles fine. It seems to me that there is lag time from idle to full fire at its current feed setting, maybe all feed settings. So if I use enough hot water to get to full fire, then stop using hot water, that is when it dumps heat. Also at that time the timer could come on feeding the fire needlessly.

What is your dump zone aquastat set at?

Dump zone is set at 220.

I am going to put a tee in my pressure relief port (ahead of the pr) and run a line (with a pump inline) to the extra hole in the coil faceplate to give it a continuous blast of hot water into the coil area as I am not getting much temp drop during hot water use.

A Taco 007 pump is the cheapest I can find which is way over kill through the half inch port in the faceplate. Maybe I can find a smaller one or dial back the the speed of the Taco with a paddle fan controller. Or I may just go with a remote switch and mount the remote next to the shower. The Taco is .71 A (85 watts) Yeah, I have too much time on my hands, as I don't think it is ever going to stop raining here!

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If your coil seems ineffective, I would check it for hard water deposits...that is the most common problem.

Rob, My coil is new, right out of the box

I just went back and re-read your post that the boiler temp. doesn't drop quickly when drawing water through the coil. Do you get satisfactory amounts of domestic hot water?

With ~50 gallons in the pressure vessel and a 4gpm coil, it will take some time for the boiler temperature to start dropping...if you really want to see how effective the coil is, measure the inlet and outlet temperatures at a known flow rate and boiler temperature.

Rob, I seem to get enough DHW only at 180-190 degree boiler setting. It seems like a pretty small coil, the outdoor wood boiler guys have coils 2-3 feet long, or so they say...they may be just bragging about how big theirs is

I agree that it sounds like the tankless coil just doesn't have enough surface area to do the job with moderate boiler temps. I think most tankless coils have their rated output measured with the boiler at 180-200 degrees. Either keep your boiler at a steady 180 or look into a storage tank/indirect.

This is a great topic markviii! I'm starting to get calls on outfire problems from some people. I'll let you know about some of the situation I come across. I have a problem myself with my AA 130. I have tried every ajustment in the manual and still have outfires in the summer months. I switched to buckweat for the summer, just curious how it will burn and if it helps. My indirect hot water heater is not connected to my triple aquastate. My first change is to connect it to my triple aquastate so my stoker turns on every time it calls for heat. That should help. We do use a lot of hot water. If I still have problems I may install a draft inducer . I like to hear from other axeman guys about runing theirs during the summer and any problems and solutions.

Matthew

MATTHEW D. wrote: I have tried every ajustment in the manual and still have outfires in the summer months. Matthew

I leave the anthrastat alone, if you do turn down the anthrastat, I only do 2 degrees at a time and let it go a day or 2.

MATTHEW D. wrote: I switched to buckweat for the summer, just curious how it will burn and if it helps.Matthew

Less heat and less draft, I just run pea.

MATTHEW D. wrote: My indirect hot water heater is not connected to my triple aquastate. My first change is to connect it to my triple aquastate so my stoker turns on every time it calls for heat. Matthew

That should help, what temp do you keep the hwh at ?

It's a weil-mclain 35 gal and the settings are just low-very hot. I keep it in the middle. I understand what you are saying about more heat more draft, good point. Just want to see what results I get from the buck. You never know to you try, It might be better it might be worse. I'll let you know how it works for me. Thanks for the input.

Hey Matt - I have a Weil McLain indirect about the same size, I just run it at the "factory setting" mark. I have mine run off a zone with an old Honeywell R845 relay, so there is an end switch to use for a heat call signal. Without the end switch hooked up the stoker would only run when the low limit was reached...hot water production was less than impressive.

As for the Axeman outfires, please post the settings you are currently using (aquastats, anthrastat, timer). I usually recommend going back to the manual's recommendations and adjusting from there. I would run enough of a timer cycle to keep the boiler around 180 degrees, this will help your draft and it will recover faster when the indirect calls for heat. Buck will make the boiler a little less responsive, so running it "warm" off the timer should improve response.

That Axeman should hold a fire for a long time with good chimney draft, so check your cleanout door for a tight fit (or tape it off), tape the stovepipe seams, and check the clearance between the fire port door and the boiler.

markviii wrote:I agree that it sounds like the tankless coil just doesn't have enough surface area to do the job with moderate boiler temps. I think most tankless coils have their rated output measured with the boiler at 180-200 degrees. Either keep your boiler at a steady 180 or look into a storage tank/indirect.

I am pondering how Highlander is getting by at 140 degrees w/o a tank and I can't.

During the summer starting at Easter I run my stoker rice burning boiler at 130/140/ with a 10 differential and we have more than enough hot water. I have the boiler timer pins set to start the boiler every 7 minutes on 3 pins.

markviii wrote:Hey Matt - I have a Weil McLain indirect about the same size, I just run it at the "factory setting" mark. I have mine run off a zone with an old Honeywell R845 relay, so there is an end switch to use for a heat call signal. Without the end switch hooked up the stoker would only run when the low limit was reached...hot water production was less than impressive.

As for the Axeman outfires, please post the settings you are currently using (aquastats, anthrastat, timer). I usually recommend going back to the manual's recommendations and adjusting from there. I would run enough of a timer cycle to keep the boiler around 180 degrees, this will help your draft and it will recover faster when the indirect calls for heat. Buck will make the boiler a little less responsive, so running it "warm" off the timer should improve response.

That Axeman should hold a fire for a long time with good chimney draft, so check your cleanout door for a tight fit (or tape it off), tape the stovepipe seams, and check the clearance between the fire port door and the boiler.

Thanks markviii. I have a taco SR506 relay w/ an end switch. I states to connect to "tt" on boiler. I will run a line to the "tt" on my triple aquastate. The manual isn't stating if it is 24 or 120 volt. What size wire should I run? Got to run to a t-ball game, Talk to ya later.
Matthew