rotted hopper

whistlenut wrote:Kinda like oil pans that rust through on ford trucks(mostly fords).

Yep, already been through that nighmare. How the hell they rust through when there is oil on the on the inside is beyond me!!!!!

whistlenut wrote:The body shops and plow guys are ecstatic....lots of business!

Forecast from the body shop network tonight was 8-9 wrecks. Somewhat less in the lower elevations.........Yeah baby.....bring it on !!!





Rick

Rick 386 wrote:whistlenut wrote:
Kinda like oil pans that rust through on ford trucks(mostly fords).

Yep, already been through that nighmare. How the hell they rust through when there is oil on the on the inside is beyond me!!!!!

I replaced 4 oil pans.What a PITA. They paint they used on the oil pans keep all the moisture in between the bare metal and paint and the it would rust and blister between. The last one I done sprayed carb. cleaner then siliconed over the holes and saved me 20 hrs. of work

Yep, the carb cleaner/silicone has been working on my 350 Chev truck for a few yrs. I'm to old to get into that replacement crap.It's sure not like just dropping & replacing anymore.

freetown fred wrote:I use old drained oil & a paint brush. Point being--doing something is better then doin nothing. Like Sierra stated, I've got a 1990 Chev 4X4 truck & have way less rust then a bunch of people around here with much newer vehicles.

There is so much truth to "doing something is better then doin nothing" ! My buddy and I always try to keep our trucks and anything metal in top shape even if what we do makes appearance suffer slightly. We believe it is better to try something than sit in the house and wonder what happened to everything that we ignored. LPS3, oil, cold galvanizing, rust o'leum, are just a few of tried and proven solutions with rust. High heat areas can prove challenging as not all products will be safe in high heat areas, common sense and research will prove worthwhile. There is a product called "Weld through Primer" that may prove helpful where heat is an issue, just a thought.

New here.

I have an Efel Montana that after 15 years the bottom of the hopper disappeared during the winter use and needs replacement parts(Both front and rear half).

Since I can't get new parts I was thinking of welding on some plates.

And they'll come out better then anything you could buy. Just one old farmers thoughts.

I hope so.

heat lightweight motor oil. melt paraffin wax in motor oil. spray mixture while hot. no more rust.

With the paraffin, does it rub/wear/melt off easily? I know the oil base will stay.

Berlin wrote:heat lightweight motor oil. melt paraffin wax in motor oil. spray mixture while hot. no more rust.

depends on the ratio of paraffin to oil; on my truck and cars I spray with more oil so that it has the consistency of grease, on my stokers I spray so that when it dries it has the consistency of a solid, oily, wax. I re-apply at the end of every season and I dump half a quart or so of oil down my hopper to sit in the auger tube; it's stopped rust since I've owned it. I also oil my coal which helps prevent not only rust, but excessive wear on my auger etc. as well as pretty much eliminating all dust from the coal itself.

Gottcha, sounds like a real good preventive to me. I oil the snot out of my hopper & boot--Plus pretty much the whole inside of the Hitzer--no rust showing what-so-ever

On the Hitzer stokers they went with all stainless steel hoppers. It will be awhile until those rust out!

When I got my new stove I painted with coal hopper with the black paint called POR15, the auto guys in here I'm sure are aware of it. A nice heavy wet coat and it dried super glossy. The coal does not stick at all, and no rust at all either. I burn (sometimes very wet) Blaschak coal and have no rust at all in the hopper.

jeff216410 wrote:When I got my new stove I painted with coal hopper with the black paint called POR15, the auto guys in here I'm sure are aware of it. A nice heavy wet coat and it dried super glossy. The coal does not stick at all, and no rust at all either. I burn (sometimes very wet) Blaschak coal and have no rust at all in the hopper.

Good idea! That would do very well in a hopper. It's wonderful stuff. I recommend two coats, 2nd after the 1st just tacks up. I brush painted my 14ga flue pipe with it, as well as the "black" pipe on my system and the tube on my auger. It looks like it was done yesterday. I spilled some on my basement floor while doing the underside of a truck 15 years ago. It's still there. If you don't mix dirt in with it like I usually do [LOL], the brush stroke all lay out and it looks like glass.

Dave

dave brode wrote:I brush painted my 14ga flue pipe with it

That's some thick stuff! Where'd you get it?