Modern Glenwood Is Really a Wood Stove?
Hi,
I thought I'd already made up my mind to hunt down a Chubby and I still might - but...
someone in my area has a Modern Glenwood Oak #116 that looks very nice.
But if I understand my small amount of reading thus far it seem that it is really a wood stove. Or was it designed for duel fuel use?
How much of a pain would operating this stove be for a newbie coal burner?
Opinions please.
Suzanne
I thought I'd already made up my mind to hunt down a Chubby and I still might - but...
someone in my area has a Modern Glenwood Oak #116 that looks very nice.
But if I understand my small amount of reading thus far it seem that it is really a wood stove. Or was it designed for duel fuel use?
How much of a pain would operating this stove be for a newbie coal burner?
Opinions please.
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne and welcome to the forum.
The Glenwood Modern Oak 116 is an anthracite burner and can burn wood if having the grate plate for wood burning. Some burn wood without the wood plate.
Does the stove have the back recirculating pipe? These stoves are very efficient for ant burning. I don't have one but came very close to.
If you can send photos of the stove, , back, inside...it can helps a lot. And yes, they are very nice stoves.
nortcan
The Glenwood Modern Oak 116 is an anthracite burner and can burn wood if having the grate plate for wood burning. Some burn wood without the wood plate.
Does the stove have the back recirculating pipe? These stoves are very efficient for ant burning. I don't have one but came very close to.
If you can send photos of the stove, , back, inside...it can helps a lot. And yes, they are very nice stoves.
nortcan
Ok, I'm going to look at it after work - I don't have my camera with me though. Will try my cell camera..
I'm pretty sure I can recognize a coal grate set up but what am I looking for on the back pipe configuration?
Any one got any pictures? Steve you have one right? Are you burning coal in it? And if so how is it?
I'm pretty sure I can recognize a coal grate set up but what am I looking for on the back pipe configuration?
Any one got any pictures? Steve you have one right? Are you burning coal in it? And if so how is it?
- wsherrick
- Member
- Posts: 3744
- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
Take it from me. You can't get a better coal stove than a Glenwood. They are efficient, reliable and very easy to operate. We are here to help you with any questions you may have about operating it or restoring it if it needs it.
I have burned coal all my life in one form or another and have experience with many types of stoves. My Glenwood is the best by far of all of them.
I have burned coal all my life in one form or another and have experience with many types of stoves. My Glenwood is the best by far of all of them.
Thanks everyone.
Here is the link of the one I going to see. Can't tell if it has a recirculator pipe from the pics.
How much does that sucker weigh? 450-500lbs?
How does the price seems?
http://portlandme.ebayclassifieds.com/antiques/ba ... d=10103291
Here is the link of the one I going to see. Can't tell if it has a recirculator pipe from the pics.
How much does that sucker weigh? 450-500lbs?
How does the price seems?
http://portlandme.ebayclassifieds.com/antiques/ba ... d=10103291
- SteveZee
- Member
- Posts: 2512
- Joined: Wed. May. 11, 2011 10:45 am
- Location: Downeast , Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range
Nope thats a modern oak 116 same as the one in my barn. While it's not a base burner/recirculator, it will still burn coal well as long as it's got the refractory lining in the pot and all the seams and doors are sealed tight and the grates work. It's not as efficient as a base burner but would be still a nice stove. Make sure that you need something that big though as these are quite the heaters and will heat a large space particularly if it's on the main floor of your house. It's gonna put out way more heat than a chubby. Just so you know.
Last edited by SteveZee on Fri. May. 20, 2011 2:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
For $800 if I was closer I would already have bought it!
looks like she is in good condition ...just dusty, nothing a good coat of stove polish will not resolve.
to answer your ? on weight YES it is heavy ..but you can put her on a diet real quick with some hand tools...take a flat & phillips screwdriver some wrenches 3/8, 7/16 ,1/2 " and a cresent wrench to take apart what you can on site also take some penetrating oil, I prefer P.B. Blaster ..the more you can remove and box up the better for transport to your home.....she will still be heavy after removing the doors,swing top, trim rings and whatever else you can easily ...take a few strong guys along to lift the main body out of the base (legs) and for God's sake tell the fella's not to lift the main body by the nickle pcs. around the bottom they will not bear the weight and should be removed if possible ..AND MAINLY DO NOT TRY TO TRANSPORT IT SETTING IN THE BASE!!!!!!!!! the legs or "base" is very strong setting on the floor of a home but will most likely collapse after the second pot hole in the road as it is not desighned to be bounced around just set in place and the main stove body set down in it.
Best of luck on your purchase and transport!...you will LOVE HER!!!!!!!!!!!
CONGRATS!
Tim
looks like she is in good condition ...just dusty, nothing a good coat of stove polish will not resolve.
to answer your ? on weight YES it is heavy ..but you can put her on a diet real quick with some hand tools...take a flat & phillips screwdriver some wrenches 3/8, 7/16 ,1/2 " and a cresent wrench to take apart what you can on site also take some penetrating oil, I prefer P.B. Blaster ..the more you can remove and box up the better for transport to your home.....she will still be heavy after removing the doors,swing top, trim rings and whatever else you can easily ...take a few strong guys along to lift the main body out of the base (legs) and for God's sake tell the fella's not to lift the main body by the nickle pcs. around the bottom they will not bear the weight and should be removed if possible ..AND MAINLY DO NOT TRY TO TRANSPORT IT SETTING IN THE BASE!!!!!!!!! the legs or "base" is very strong setting on the floor of a home but will most likely collapse after the second pot hole in the road as it is not desighned to be bounced around just set in place and the main stove body set down in it.
Best of luck on your purchase and transport!...you will LOVE HER!!!!!!!!!!!
CONGRATS!
Tim
- wsherrick
- Member
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- Joined: Wed. Jun. 18, 2008 6:04 am
- Location: High In The Poconos
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
- Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size
iBefore you stop to look at the stove. Go by an ATM and get the money to buy it. Don't wait. This stove will be sold almost instantly for that price. It is worth every cent.
OK. I saw it. Sorry no pictures. And please excuse any lack of proper terminology in advance...
Problems it has:
The coal grate are warped and saggy
The liner looks good at the top but the bottom looks like pillow lava with clinkers melted into it.
It has some kind of stove cement un-artfully smeared in different places which I will list in a minute. The cements is grayish and grainy as if there is sand mixed in and it's very hard
The bump out in the rear the houses the gears has a broken bolt tab so they smeared the cement all around it but it has failed anyway so needs fixing.
where the "cylinder" part of the stove meets the base (you know where it slopes inward and the cast iron has a ribbed pattern) has been smear with the cement I assume to seal it, but because it is sloppy it would need to come off somehow and be redone correctly.
They also smeared stove cement around the pipe adapter at the back but no big deal
and lastly on of the nickel plate trim pieces at the top has one broken tab but is held in place with with a little twist of wire - again, no big deal
All else looks real good, the nickel plating is pristine.
I was going to walk away at $800 due to the problems and because it is also a little on the big side as Steve mentioned.
However, being who I am, I had to see what I could get it for...
The have committed to sell it to me for $450 but I have not committed yet.
Sooo...what do you think?
How hard to find grates and at what cost?
What the hell is that cement and will it come off?
And anything else I can't think of...
Need help fast!!!
Suzanne
Problems it has:
The coal grate are warped and saggy
The liner looks good at the top but the bottom looks like pillow lava with clinkers melted into it.
It has some kind of stove cement un-artfully smeared in different places which I will list in a minute. The cements is grayish and grainy as if there is sand mixed in and it's very hard
The bump out in the rear the houses the gears has a broken bolt tab so they smeared the cement all around it but it has failed anyway so needs fixing.
where the "cylinder" part of the stove meets the base (you know where it slopes inward and the cast iron has a ribbed pattern) has been smear with the cement I assume to seal it, but because it is sloppy it would need to come off somehow and be redone correctly.
They also smeared stove cement around the pipe adapter at the back but no big deal
and lastly on of the nickel plate trim pieces at the top has one broken tab but is held in place with with a little twist of wire - again, no big deal
All else looks real good, the nickel plating is pristine.
I was going to walk away at $800 due to the problems and because it is also a little on the big side as Steve mentioned.
However, being who I am, I had to see what I could get it for...
The have committed to sell it to me for $450 but I have not committed yet.
Sooo...what do you think?
How hard to find grates and at what cost?
What the hell is that cement and will it come off?
And anything else I can't think of...
Need help fast!!!
Suzanne
- PC 12-47E
- Member
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- Joined: Tue. Nov. 25, 2008 11:45 am
- Location: Mid Coast, Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Estate Heatrola, Jotul 507
My Fuller & Warren base burner needs much more work than this stove but the $450. does not sound too bad....
All of the grate & burn pot parts are available for that stove.
Wsherrick will help you out with any questions.
I hope it all works out for you.
Eddie
All of the grate & burn pot parts are available for that stove.
Wsherrick will help you out with any questions.
I hope it all works out for you.
Eddie
Attachments
- dlj
- Member
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
- Location: Monroe, NY
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
- Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
- Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters
No it's not William, MINE is! LOLwsherrick wrote: My Glenwood is the best by far of all of them.
dj
- dlj
- Member
- Posts: 1273
- Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
- Location: Monroe, NY
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
- Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
- Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters
Suzanne, How handy are you? Do you have a welder and do you know how to weld cast iron? The grates will work even if they are warped as long as they turn well enough to function. I'd have to see them to know if they would work as is. I don't know how much news ones run, sorry, can't help you there.szmaine wrote:OK. I saw it. Sorry no pictures. And please excuse any lack of proper terminology in advance...
Problems it has:
The coal grate are warped and saggy
The liner looks good at the top but the bottom looks like pillow lava with clinkers melted into it.
It has some kind of stove cement un-artfully smeared in different places which I will list in a minute. The cements is grayish and grainy as if there is sand mixed in and it's very hard
The bump out in the rear the houses the gears has a broken bolt tab so they smeared the cement all around it but it has failed anyway so needs fixing.
where the "cylinder" part of the stove meets the base (you know where it slopes inward and the cast iron has a ribbed pattern) has been smear with the cement I assume to seal it, but because it is sloppy it would need to come off somehow and be redone correctly.
They also smeared stove cement around the pipe adapter at the back but no big deal
and lastly on of the nickel plate trim pieces at the top has one broken tab but is held in place with with a little twist of wire - again, no big deal
All else looks real good, the nickel plating is pristine.
I was going to walk away at $800 due to the problems and because it is also a little on the big side as Steve mentioned.
However, being who I am, I had to see what I could get it for...
The have committed to sell it to me for $450 but I have not committed yet.
Sooo...what do you think?
How hard to find grates and at what cost?
What the hell is that cement and will it come off?
And anything else I can't think of...
Need help fast!!!
Suzanne
I personally think for $450, you would do well to get it... That gives you $350 to get it functional and you are back at your original $800 price... That should be do-able...
dj