How to adjust Barometric damper

Is it possible to adjust the baro. "close enough" without a manometer?

e.alleg wrote:Is it possible to adjust the baro. "close enough" without a manometer?

If you have a good chimney, I would say yes. Most have a scaled bar that has a weight. The scale should be marked for " of draft. The factory marks are very good in most cases. When adjusted right she will dance pretty good on a gusty day.

e,

I suppose you could. I bought the mano to check the draft, then installed the baro damper. I have found that the mark where I set the weight on the damper is not the actual reading from the manometer. I think it was about .02 inches WC off. It should work, but I am one of those people who has to have things set-up perfectly. I guess that's why it takes me so long to do everything.

Also, my baro has different positions for vertical and horizontal pipe installation.

Coaldsweat...my baro was doing the Tarantella this afternoon (was a little windy here).

John

Takes you so long to doe everything?? Do you mean that you are actually able to finish what you start despite the perfectionism??

In the 1980's I painted a '63 Falcon and a '63 Continental conv. for a good friend. Those are the 2 jobs I finished. Period.

I've heard that perfectionists never finish anything, I suppose that's true. I think I just have too many projects going on at once. I remember reading some story about an old man who worked at a factory that made fancy brass doors, with intricate designs. His job was to hand polish the doors. When asked how he knew when he was finished with a door he said "When they take it away and bring me another one". I thought that was stupid, some old codger who couldn't tell when the stupid door was shiny enough. But it's true...

John

My problem is, I've been self-employed for years. There's no one to take the door away from me so I just keep on polishing! No wonder I never make any money.

I know what you mean...

With regard to the manometer question, as discussed, draft for a chimney can be guestimated based on where you place the weights on the baro damper. For a power vent it is essential to have a manometer to properly set the rheostat. If not, it has been my experience that you can either waste heat out the vent or create a dangerous lack of draft without knowing it.

On the door polishing activity, my problem is not only not knowing when to stop, but also seeing other doors that need polishing and bringing them home... after a while I have so many doors and such a standard of perfection I'm sure I will never get done or even start half of them!

I need to retire ten years ago to 'polish all the doors' I have lined up waiting for my attention

Greg L

I will never get to all the doors, as I finish one and start the next one, the first door has tarnished, so I have to start all over again!

Amen brother! Except in my case it might be 15 years! :eeeeek:

i really think getting a manometer whould be a good idea i work on furnaces and i find that the meter is much more needed then the marks on the draft regulator and much more reliable

I'm just waiting for tarnished doors to become fashionable!

Tarnished doors, what an interesting idea...

I used the scale given on the weight scale. It seems to be working great. I have a direct vent but installed the Baro to the stove and the power vent motor. I used aluminum tape on all the seals but I think it was overkill. I like overkill. So far my stove seems to be buring less coal on the lowest settings. We sell when the stove is really fired. I thought about adding a rheostat to control the exhaust motor but I don't think I need one.