Harman Mark 3

If it was me, I'd get rid of the 8" liner and just use the clay lined chimney as is. You can use the SS liner but eventually you'll wear that out due to the acids in the exhaust. The clay lined brick chimney is ideal as is as long as that's the only appliance on that flue.

I would still have to connect to the clay chimney and the chimney is on the outside. Nice creekstone monster that was laid, wont this cause some draft problems without reducing? 8X12 liner I believe without the ss inserted liner.

It depends. It's always a little "cooler" when the chimney is on the outside but as long as it's tall enough you should be fine. It's not going to be that different with an 8"x12" as 8".
As far as tying in, I would cut and install a thimble and go in from there. I just did it for my cylinder stove Star Herald 112 and you can see the pix in that thread. The original was very low so I pulled out the old thimble, bricked that up and cut a new one up higher. I used a double wall stainless thimbal and mortered it in due to the clearence of some very old frame stringers in the wall I was going through. I used an angle grinder and masonry blade to too cut through the about 6 bricks I needed to remove to install that double wall stainless thimble. If you're not comfortable doing the masonry call a mason and he'll do it in an hour or so.
If you have a fireplace on it, you can go in through there as long as you make a blocking plate with a hole through it for your flue pipe in.

Here are some pics of where I am at now. Remember I have a budget so I cant go crazy on what could be done. If I can get it too work efficiently this year< and show the mrs that coal isnt dirty!> I can prolly spend more on it next season. basement isnt the most organzied right now.. just tore the old firewood insert out yesterday. The metal end piece on that liner is off the old stove if anyone wonders. Hold good wad of insulation pretty good for now

Ok I see the pix now. So you have a fireplace on it, no need to cut a thimble. For me, I was in the room opposite of the fireplace so I had no choice. In your situation, the simplest, easiest solutiuon would be to hook right up to the existing liner as long as it's sTill in good shape. It looks to be insulated so that will help. You'll need a 6"-8" pipe adaptor though but those can be found.
Later on, if you want to get rid of the 8" liner, I'd just make a plate to cover the damper rectangle that the liner is coming through and cut a 6" hole in that to stick your stove pipe through and you'll never have to worry about it since a clay liner is the best and will last indeffinately versus a SS will wear out over 5 or so years.

what about the 2- 2.5 ft span from the rectangle opening to the clay liner? How would I connect that? I would want something to seal that from 8X12 to 6 inch right? Where could I find something like that any local hardware/hvac store?

anthony7812 wrote:what about the 2- 2.5 ft span from the rectangle opening to the clay liner? How would I connect that? I would want something to seal that from 8X12 to 6 inch right? Where could I find something like that any local hardware/hvac store?

connect the stove in the usual way and then

Put two lengths of smoke pipe into the chimney and stuff unfaced fiberglass around it to fill in the spaces.

That's right. Just use the 6">8" adaptor and connect too the liner. Once you've done that, the rest doesn't matter (function wise) because you're hooked direct to the liner and that's effectively your chimney. You can then block off the rest of the rectangular opening in any way you see fit. It doesn't effect your stove's performance except to keep room air from escaping up the chimney.

PS: The Harman looks good!

SteveZee wrote:That's right. Just use the 6">8" adaptor and connect too the liner.

PS: The Harman looks good!

I will more than likely do this setup this year. I was more looking into taking liner out completely. Thats what had me a touch confused on how to instal the stove pipe into the chimney creating a good seal.

Need a little brass polish but other than that the mark is in tip top shape. New firebrick , new door gaskets, the previous owner took good care of it. Got a great price on it also, 700 for the stove and a touch more than a ton of coal. He switched to pellets, works 12 hr swing with me and was looking for something with a hopper and something his wife would work with also.

$700 is a steal for a Mark III. I'm embarrassed to say what mine cost. I bought it new ..... and I know better - that's what kills me ...

Looking at your pictures, that setup is exactly what my dad did with his Mark I. The only difference is, the building inspector for the town made him seal that whole gap up around the pipe & damper there. The guy was a pain in the ass. First, he made him put all stainless in (which isn't a bad thing, but he was on a budget) ...then came back & rejected my dads work twice before finally approving it the 3rd time.

We burned wood without even having the pipe go up the chimney like that for over 30 years, so we knew it would still work .... but the inspector wasn't having any of it. We had a fireproof board covering the entire fireplace, then just cut a 6" hole in it for the pipe. Never had a draft issue in over 30 yrs there. But anyway, his coal stove is all hooked up & works great. Just cost him quite a chunk more than planned.

Im would like to pull out the ss liner and say thier done with that, but I an unsure if ill have drafts problems without it. Like I said 8x12 clay without the 8 inch liner. What do you guys think?

If you have a clay liner & the chimney is reasonably high (mainly at least 2' above anything 10' away) , then I see no reason to use SS in there. It's just going to disintegrate in a few years anyway. But you'll still need a connector pipe from the back of the stove, and that I would use SS on.

Yep just use the pipe off the stove up into the chimney a couple or so feet and get the rest of that opening closed off and you're good to go. As I mentioned earlier, in a similar application I did for another stove in fireplace, I had a steel plate made to size and a hole cut in the middle for the stove pipe to fit through with enough room to maneuver and then seal round the pipe. I put mine (the plate) on the up-side (above the rectagular opening) so it it just sat on it with no need to tack it on.

With the larger bore chimney (the 8x12 without liner) what are the thoughts on using a baro?

Well, you could and there allot of mixed opinions. If your concerned about draft then I would start without it. See what the chimney pulls like. The baro is just going to make it draw less. Obviously it evens draft out over windy conditions but will never help the draft, only lessen it.