manometer install question

manometer install question

PostBy: phulklip On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:30 pm

i purchased a dwyer mark 2 manometer today. after reading everything on the forums i am still confused. do i drill a 1/4 hole in pipe and insert brake line or copper tubing half way in or do i drill and insert the threaded fitting and attach 1/4 " copper tubing to it. also, how do i reduce the copper tubing to fit on the rubber hose. i'm planning on a permanent installation.
thanking you in advance
phulklip
 

PostBy: LsFarm On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 4:53 pm

I drilled the hole, used a piece of copper tubing, soldered the supplied fitting to the end of the tube to adapt it to the Manometer's hose.

I think the fitting would work fine if threaded into the flue pipe, but may get clogged with fly ash over time. It wouldn't be difficult to clean it out, just poke a wire through the fitting.

I remove the copper tubing ocassionally and tap it to knock off the fly ash, and reinstall it.

Welcome to the forum, Hope this helps with your question.

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: Wood'nCoal On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 5:05 pm

I just drilled a hole in the pipe, threaded it and screwed in a 1/4 FPT by 1/4 compression 90 degree ell, then attacted 1/4 copper tubing, abt. 1.5 feet long. the tubing that comes with the mano fits right over the copper. I leave the ell in the pipe when not checking the draft (wife won't let me leave the mano screwed to the wall (women don't understand......).
Wood'nCoal
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert


PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:01 pm

You need to recalibrate every time you use it to be dead on. The day to day changes in atmospheric pressure will move your zero around. This is not to say they are way off if you don't, they stay close.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: e.alleg On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:56 pm

do you need to re-adjust the baro for different fire or outside temp conditions? Like will I need a different setting for the summer when the boiler is just heating the hot water vs the winter when it's really cranking? Or is the draft setting a one time deal, set it and forget it until someone fiddles with the weights?
e.alleg
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 520

PostBy: Wood'nCoal On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:00 pm

Reply hazy, try again...

Sorry, I think it's strictly based on air pressure, not temperature, but I think that's a question Coaledsweat can give you a better answer on.
Wood'nCoal
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:20 pm

If you vent both tubes to the atmosphere and calibrate zero, it will move around as the air pressure changes day to day. Dwyer's instructions will say something like "calibrate before each reading".
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: phulklip On: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:15 am

thank you all for clearing things up. i'm off to the hdwe store
phulklip