manometer install

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:38 am

If I understand your setup you are suggesting installing the manometer after the baro, this will not work. You need to install the line for the manometer before the baro at the stove outlet or breach (the inlet of the T on the stove side).

As long as it is in the pipe somewhere before the T branches off for the baro you should be OK.

Chief20 · By: **Chief20** On: Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:48 pm

I've attached a photo I hope that will show what I'm up against. There is not much room. I'm hoping to drill a hole and screw in an adapter bushing that will transition to a compression fitting for a copper tube. Please advise. Thanks

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:08 am

That will be easy, just drill a hole in the top of the stove flue outlet where the T for the baro is inserted, you will be drilling through both but that won't hurt anything.

Drill the hole for an 1/8" pipe tap and then tap the hole, you can screw in any kind of fitting you need, I use the pipe to tube adapter that comes in the kit with the Dwyer Mk II model 25, since you are so close to the stove you will need a small length of high temp tubing, or you can use the metal you planned on with the compression fitting.

Best of luck, let us know how it works out.

Chief20 · By: **Chief20** On: Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:39 pm

Thanks for the help. I have all the materials and have selected a spot between the manual damper and the stove pipe tee that will not interfere with the manual damper. Will post a photo when install is complete. Waiting for my cordless battery to recharge. The stoves collar is solid.

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Tue Jan 13, 2009 9:42 pm

Yeah when I said easy I should have mentioned that drilling through a solid 1/4" collar ain't so easy, especially if the bit is dull!

Chief20 · By: **Chief20** On: Wed Jan 14, 2009 10:10 pm

: Manometer Connection.JPG (41.81 KiB) Viewed 2023 times; Select:BBcode:; [nepafile=10174]Manometer Connection.JPG[/nepafile]

: Digital Manometer.JPG (38.59 KiB) Viewed 2023 times; Select:BBcode:; [nepafile=10175]Digital Manometer.JPG[/nepafile]

Well its in..... Not easy threading on a curved surface. Tomorrow I fire it up on wood and check the draft. Any advice as to ideal conditions for adjusting the baro? I intend to heat the stove up to 500-550F. Try to get control of the burn with the ash door air control. I will keep the manual damper open. I do not believe that using the manual damper will help once the baro is adjusted.

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Wed Jan 14, 2009 11:15 pm

Are you sure the manometer you have goes low enough to read -.02 to -.04" WC? Looks like a unit that reads on a higher scale than hundredths if an inch WC.

As far as burn, set it up and wath it through your whole hand fed cycle, adjust weight on baro so it never exceeds -,04" WC.

Chief20 · By: **Chief20** On: Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:20 pm

Well I'm up on coal. Started a wood fire with 2 quarter pieces of wood. Draft today was incredible. Very cold here in central MA. Started at 5:30pm when I got home from work. Stove was clean. Outside temp was 8 degrees. Slowly added coal until wood was gone. Stove temp at 500 degrees and burn looks good. Set stove ash door vent in the mid position and let it stabilize for 45 minutes. Manometer read .12,its resolution is .01 below 9.99 In. of H2O, getting to .05 was not a problem. Its currently 3 degrees outside and the baro is slowly bouncing about and eight of an inch open. Russo recommends .04 to .06. I will report back if anything happens. I am slowly building up the bed and hope it last till morning. Temps are to fall below 0 tonight. The house is warming nicely. Thanks for your help.

gitrdonecoal · By: **gitrdonecoal** On: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:15 am

hey ya all. got my hotblast furnace, love it. just installed the Dwyer 25 manometer. the low side is hooked up to stove pipe and the high side is just hangin out there in lingo. (is this right?) when i got a good, hot fire going (like just before i shut the ash pan door after loading, fire is red hot and stove is 300 to 325 degrees) the mano reads .1 or higher, sometimes .15. when the fire is has calmed after many hours it reads .06. is this ok? how do i change? do you change the settings at the ash pan door dampner, baro, or a combination? as always, thank you so much.
john

WNY · By: **WNY** On: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:20 am

Pretty high! You would change the weight on the baro to open quicker.

If you have the RC baro from Field controls, where is the weight currently? If mounted vertical, and you have the weight on the RIGHT side, move it closer to the middle, that will decrease the draft on the stove and open faster.

Plus your ash door setting will affect it too. You may have to experiment a bit, every stove is different.

gitrdonecoal · By: **gitrdonecoal** On: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:35 am

mounted horizontally, weight on the left. i thought it was opening up a lot to begin with. almoat too much, but im still learning myself. got a simpson tripple wall stainless chimney. 15 feet tall, one tee in stainless, and one elbow in the stove pipe. drafts pretty strong. gonna adjust the weight now.

gitrdonecoal · By: **gitrdonecoal** On: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:42 am

well it had some adjustment left in it. the weight is now pegged all the way to the middle. hope this is ok, i gotta go to work soon. i might just set it back to where it was and wait to hear back from some of you tonight when i get back home. im afraid of coal gas and my doggies getting sick. :shock:

WNY · By: **WNY** On: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:31 am

Did you zero out your manometer, seems the .1 is quite high, but I could be wrong for your setup. What does your stove Mfr. recommend?

That is correct if Horiz. mount with the weight on left. I would check the Baro to make sure there is no build up of ash or creosote on the back of it, that will throw the settings off. I think my weight is about 1/2 half on the scale and running
.04-.05 roughly.

gitrdonecoal · By: **gitrdonecoal** On: Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:43 pm

well now im finding out that the mano is jumping all around, and reading further into this post i found out that in a tight house with cloths dryer, bathroom fan, ect. running the manometer is jumping all around the board. think this is part of my problem

WNY · By: **WNY** On: Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:14 am

That Could be, didn't think of that. My basement leaks pretty good and it stays steady most of the time.

manometer install

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