Manometer Install

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Thu. Oct. 18, 2007 7:44 am

Thanks...Need more coffee.............


 
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Post by mina678 » Thu. Oct. 18, 2007 11:42 am

Ok. I have it set to .04 and I know I should have full load of coal in it when setting it up but I only had a small fire going and the stove temp 450 /500. It seems to me that with a full load burning wouldn't the temp be much higher , What kinda of stove temps with coal are the norm?

I was thinking if it was like .02 you would have better control of the temp.

It seems like my chimney really drafts when it get going

Tim

 
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Post by dirvine96 » Thu. Oct. 18, 2007 11:55 am

What is outside temp where you are? Sound like you should Waite for it to cool down a bit before fine tuning your draft. You need that baby cranking to get your draft set properly

Don

 
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Post by mina678 » Thu. Oct. 18, 2007 12:22 pm

it was about 50 when I was messing with it, wouldnt cola weather make it draw even harder

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Oct. 18, 2007 1:45 pm

mina678 wrote:it was about 50 when I was messing with it, wouldnt cola weather make it draw even harder
Yes, lower readings are normal. The baro's function is to limit total draft only. It will not increase your draft in anyway and cannot be adjusted for anything except maximum draft. It prevents the draft from running away with your fire.

Set the draft's limit when you have a vigorous fire going to ensure that it will not go beyond your setting. You can't really set one in this weather unless you have a powered vent or a really great chimney (or you want to roast everyone in the home).

 
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Post by mina678 » Fri. Oct. 19, 2007 7:03 am

pray for cold

 
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Post by Greyhound » Fri. Oct. 19, 2007 4:33 pm

Bite your tongue! :!: :P :lol:


 
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Post by LsFarm » Fri. Oct. 19, 2007 4:39 pm

Be carefull what you wish for... a week of sub zero temps with high winds, and we'll have to start a 'how to unfreeze pipes' forum!!

I'll take nights in the 20's and 30's, and days in the 30's and 40's. :lol: :? :)

Snow?? only on ski slopes and I guess on snowmobile trails. An overall snowfall of 6" or so on December 23rd or 24th, melting off on Jan 2nd. Followed by the above mentioned temperatures..... Now THAT's a nice winter.

[ I KNOW, I'm getting old]... But I did help Matthaus dig out his place from the Feb 14th snowfall... :lol: :)

Greg L

 
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Post by Matthaus » Fri. Oct. 19, 2007 9:57 pm

Hey Greg, you are welcome back any time, especially if we get 24" of snow at a whack! :lol: :lol:

 
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Post by WNY » Thu. Nov. 08, 2007 12:50 pm

Manometer Settings :)

Read the directions first, filling it is very touchy, I overflowed mine a couple times and had to dump some out. YOu should mount it and level it first! Then adjust the zero knob out 3 full turns, then slowly put some fluid in it until it just gets to zero, then you can use the knob to adjust up or down. Then Hook up the one tube to your chimney.

I have one side hooked to the chimney below the Baro damper coming out of the stove, and the other just open to nothing.

Here is what it should look like and the settings of .02-.04 Marked (Higher is good draft Farther To the right), you don't want too much draft, you will be wasting heat up the chimney. It doesn't vary much.

Mine varies around .03 to .05, the baro damper works to maintain the .04 settings. It starts to open around .04.

Attachments

dwyer_settings.jpg
.JPG | 48.4KB | dwyer_settings.jpg

 
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Post by coalstoves » Thu. Nov. 08, 2007 3:07 pm

Howdy Guys
Quick question about the initial calibration of the baro .
Manometer connected fire going combustion blower off or on ?

 
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Post by Matthaus » Thu. Nov. 08, 2007 3:12 pm

Best way I know of is zero the manometer, insert a probe in the stove and measure the stove pressure with the stove running on max fire, adjust the sheet metal over the inlet of the combustion fan to achieve no less than -02 WC (more than in reference to the actual number) in the stove. Then move on to checking the draft and manometer operation/settings with the combustion fan running. Verify the setting throughout the entire burning range (min to max).

The Harman manual has some good insight on this (yeah I know, what! reading the manual! :doh: ).

Have fun! :)

 
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Post by CoalHeat » Sun. Nov. 18, 2007 10:22 am

Photos of my manometer installed before I remove it. Please ignore the unfinished fireback & base, it's in the plans.

I'm running -.05 WC, the manual says -.06 to -1.0, I think I'll leave it this way for awhile, it seems to burn OK.

Attachments

MAMOMETER 11-18-07.JPG
.JPG | 102.3KB | MAMOMETER 11-18-07.JPG
BARO-TEMPGAUGE 11-18-07.JPG
.JPG | 82.2KB | BARO-TEMPGAUGE 11-18-07.JPG
PLOTT HOUND OVERHEAT 11-18-07.JPG

Havik stays a little too long by the stove, he's elsewhere cooling off for a while.

.JPG | 124.8KB | PLOTT HOUND OVERHEAT 11-18-07.JPG
MANOMETER INSTALL 11-18-07.JPG
.JPG | 104.8KB | MANOMETER INSTALL 11-18-07.JPG

 
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Post by Matthaus » Sun. Nov. 18, 2007 10:43 am

The baro seems to be dumping too much draft. I think part of it is the location right at a change in direction of the flue gases, this can make the weight location inaccurate.

Now that you have the manometer I would move the weights to get a better number and not dump so much draft (since you want a higher number).

Have fun with the science project! :lol:

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Sun. Nov. 18, 2007 10:48 am

You think running it at this setting is NG? I had it at -.06, I just wanted to slow the burn down a little. That explains who the setting on the baro is different then the mano. reading. I go by the manometer anyway. The chimney can draft over 1.0 without the baro.

I've had the manometer since around Feb. I ran it at .-06 last season. I remove it when not testing, my wife says it doesn't look good in the dining room. I kind of like it. :)


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