manometer install

Thanks Jacknanticoke. I have a question regarding the tube going into the pipe. Do you put the tube into the middle of the pipe or doesn't it matter? Also, should the tube be facing the fire, or just be put straight in?

Thanks again

I just installed and correctly set my draft according to the instructions on Keystoker's site. I was only a hair off on the setting of the weight on the baro damper.

i took a piece of the copper tubing used for icemakers that titleist1 mentioned in another thread and stuck the rubber hose into the end. It was a snug fit so it seemed well enough to me. I stuck it into the hole on the door and then made the adjustments.

pajay wrote:Thanks Jacknanticoke. I have a question regarding the tube going into the pipe. Do you put the tube into the middle of the pipe or doesn't it matter? Also, should the tube be facing the fire, or just be put straight in?

Thanks again

I am assuming you are asking if the brake line should be pushed into the flue pipe so the end of it is inside the pipe and thus, in the middle of the flue pipe. The answer is no. Actually, all you really need to do to check your draft is to hold the end of the brake line against a hole in the flue pipe, but how we are doing it is a permanent mount.

So just get the brake line fitting, screw it onto the end of the nut that comes on the brake line. This fitting will stop the brake line from going inside the pipe and any movement at all. Then screw the fitting into a pre-drilled hole. thats all you need to do.

I know the brake lines come with the nut on it, which I think you may think is what I am talking about when I mention the fitting. That nut on the line allows the line to move back and forth. This is bad, so get the fitting to screw the nut on the brake line onto, which will keep the brake line solid and not allow movement. The chop off some of the line and your ready to go.

pajay wrote: Also, should the tube be facing the fire, or just be put straight in?

It doesn't matter as long as it enters the stovepipe. I have a 1/4" hole in an elbow that I put a long probe thermometer in. When I want to check the draft I pull the thermometer and stick the manometer tube in and take the reading. It is not required to be a sealed connection, just that it gets a reading from inside the stovepipe.

hello everyone ,ok i finally installed my dywer manometer #25,ok plugged into low side was resding .09 -1.0 ok adjust weight on baro damp to read.06, now weight is almost to left side???? also now baro is always open a good bit is this norm ??? now that i have the baro adjusted how much less coal will i use??? do you think its going to be a significant amount . thanks Tommy

I think it will be a significant amount yes. certainly enought to cover the cost of the dwyer. Did you figure on average how much you were burning prior to the adjustment?

yes being open is drawing air from house instead of thru coal fire. dont worry its not sucking all the heat out .

Poconoeagle wrote:I think it will be a significant amount yes. certainly enought to cover the cost of the dwyer.

depends on what he paid for the Dwyer..

yes thats true clark, err mr Kent.....

Fran654 wrote:hello everyone ,ok i finally installed my dywer manometer #25,ok plugged into low side was resding .09 -1.0 ok adjust weight on baro damp to read.06, now weight is almost to left side???? also now baro is always open a good bit is this norm ??? now that i have the baro adjusted how much less coal will i use??? do you think its going to be a significant amount . thanks Tommy

i would think cutting your draft by forty percent should save a decent amount of coal.

Finally installed my manometer today. Ran steel brake line most of the way then automotive vaccum hose over the tube and connected to the low side port on the manometer.

My reading with the 520 boiler at idle was .07 Is this way high? I waited for the unit to run and then watch it. It was at .05

My baro appears to be adjusted at .04 - .06 area -- What adjustments should I be making? Should the weight be moved?

Please help.


Thanks,


Mitch

Ok I have been lurking here and there for about a month now. I just got my alaska channing 3 setup in the basement and I have a SWG power venter through one of the windows. I have a baro which right now is set between 2 and 4. The guy I talked to at the stove place said that I should run the venter the lowest it will go and then set the baro so that it just barely flaps. Another person told me to check with a draft meter so that brought me to you guys. I purchased a Dwyer 25 on Evilbay and it came the other day. After much confusion and head scratching I noticed that it doesn't have the liquid that goes in the meter. Is that just colored water or is it something different. If it is does anyone know where i can get it from or if there is something comparable that can be used. Thanks ahead of time for your knowledge.

Dan

danothemano wrote:Is that just colored water

NO... it's oil, you can buy it at Grainger.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1TC00?BaseItem=2T650

Razzler wrote:

danothemano wrote:Is that just colored water

NO... it's oil, you can buy it at Grainger.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1TC00?BaseItem=2T650

You can also get it at most auto supply stores.
Marvel lubricating oil, in the little 4oz. bottle and save yourself some money

actually there is many different types of guage oil and the specific gravity of each determine the way they act. I would think I would use the correct oil so as to be accurate seeing as you are going thru the trouble of even connecting the thing.

the dwyer web site is quite specific regarding which oil for which guage calibration. its like 3 bucks.... correction $5.60 http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Prod ... e=Ordering

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Prod ... ons_Access


i think the A-101 is it.......

Poconoeagle wrote:actually there is many different types of guage oil and the specific gravity of each determine the way they act. I would think I would use the correct oil so as to be accurate seeing as you are going thru the trouble of even connecting the thing.

the dwyer web site is quite specific regarding which oil for which guage calibration. its like 3 bucks.... correction $5.60 http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Prod ... e=Ordering

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/Prod ... ons_Access

Getting the Dwyer oil, would certainly be the way to go if it were readily available to you.
Absolutely.
But if you have to order it, and pay shipping etc., the Marvel oil is virtually the same thing.
The Dwyer oil has a specific gravity of .826 the Marvel Lubricating oil has a specific gravity of .876
This difference in a gauge would be so minimal it would never be noticed.