Manometer Install

 
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av8r
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Post by av8r » Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 9:56 pm

Jlew1129 wrote:Where would the best place to take a reading on a back vent model LL Pioneer?... especially with the short distance of pipe between the stove and the wall.
I have the hearth model and I just pulled out a screw from the where the T and baro attach right to the flange on the stove. I used a football inflation needle (Thanks, Matthaus) and measured there. Seemed to work fine. I'm probably going to drill and tap the stove body down in the corner nearest the exhaust port for future measurements.


 
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Post by coalkirk » Sat. Jan. 19, 2008 10:08 am

IMG_8561.jpg
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Dialed in and now saving some coal. My stack temp dropped about 80 degrees beyond the baro once the draft was adjusted properly. It's been hard to gauge how much less coal since the temps have been all over the map. Should tell better this weekend when the cold temps arrive.

 
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Post by ken » Tue. Jan. 22, 2008 4:04 pm

i got a little extra $ , I cashed in on some of my online poker sites :) I found a Dwyer Mark II 27 Manometer somewhere. is the 27 , the same or close to the 25. they have it listed as a 27.

 
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Post by coalkirk » Tue. Jan. 22, 2008 5:39 pm

Ken,
The model 27 has a smaller tighter scale and is harder to read. I'd go with the 25.

 
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Post by ken » Tue. Jan. 22, 2008 7:10 pm

thank you for info coalkirk. I wouldn't have been happy with that. I can't find the 25 anywhere other then e-bay and I always get outbid at the end. somebody has to know where to just buy one.

 
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Post by WNY » Tue. Jan. 22, 2008 8:17 pm


 
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Post by coalkirk » Tue. Jan. 22, 2008 8:20 pm

http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Dwyer_Mark_II_M ... W-68062-58

$31.75 Cheapest I've found other than ebay.


 
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Post by WNY » Tue. Jan. 22, 2008 8:29 pm

Another one.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Compare shipping on them....that could determine total pricing.

I bought my Temp. Probes from Cole-Palmer, good to deal with and fast shipping! :)

Good luck Guys. :) Hope that helps

 
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Post by ken » Tue. Jan. 22, 2008 9:56 pm

maybe I should switch from yahoo to google :D thanks guys , i'm sure I will find one with that info. funny , I was at that hvac site and they only showed the 27. anyways I ordered one from there. thanks you again guys.

 
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Post by ken » Sun. Jan. 27, 2008 4:31 pm

hopefully today is manometer day :D I have the unit mounted on the wall , leveled , zeroed 3 turns out and filled. two hoses , one with red strip , which I will hook to low side and flue pipe. plain one hook to nothing. now , where to put the connector on the flue. have the DV unit thats about 12" long str8. elbow about 6" curved lol. then 18" srt8 flue to the wall. were would the manometer experts put the fitting? also in the instuctions it says to point the fitting directed into air stream. is that nessary? again , thank you guys , ken

 
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Post by LsFarm » Sun. Jan. 27, 2008 4:41 pm

Ken, does your keystoker have the DV unit mounted right on the stove.. ? If so, then you need to put the Manometer probe into the fiebox of the stove itself. what you want to read and monitor is the vacuum in the stove box or 'over the fire' draft.

If your 'DV unit' is mounted down stream of the stove and there is a length of pipe between the DV unit and the stove, then you can locate the Manometer probe in this section of pipe, near the stove.

Hope this helps.. Greg

 
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Post by WNY » Sun. Jan. 27, 2008 5:14 pm

If you have any space between the DV and the stove, you can drill a hole there, mine is mounted directly to the back of the stove. So, I ended drilling into the side of my stove, not sure if your firebox is single wall on the back or the sides? You may have to find a place where the firebox is single wall and drill a small hole for your hookup.

If you go back page in this posting, you can see where I drilled into the side of my Keystoker firebox and isntalled a compression fitting and a small piece of tubing.

It doesn't have to be in the airstream, just a hole and a small piece of copper or stainless tubing to get the rubber tubing back a bit from the heat so it doesn't melt..

 
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Post by ken » Sun. Jan. 27, 2008 9:09 pm

phew , good thing I asked. you guys are great. I feel a sleep and just woke up. i'll finish tomorrow. thank you , ken :D

 
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Post by ken » Wed. Jan. 30, 2008 10:14 pm

well i'm back. :D monday I was reading the jokes , I clicked on the oil cap picture and my mother board went. :( I got new tower today and i'm good to go. I wonder how I survived 10 years ago without a computer. lol on the Keystoker there is a little hole next to the ash door. I put 6" pc of brake line on the tubing and can read the manometer that way. so i'm not going to hook it up permenatly. so I put it to the hole and in moves 4 lines from zero. not good huh. I open the draft bar all the way open. I get it to go to .01 . well with the draft open all the way the stove was not getting very hot. I pushed it in half way back to 4 lines. I opened the conbustion plate 100% , no change. you guys sure these things work lol. ?????????

 
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Post by LsFarm » Wed. Jan. 30, 2008 10:42 pm

Hi Ken, first remove the piece of brake line from the stove vent pipe and make sure the meter goes to zero..Adjust the zero knob if necessary.
Then take a look about eight posts up this page above this message, There is a photo showing about the correct reading you are looking for. It shows about .o3 or .o4" of wc. this is correct. It isn't much. you cannot get it over probably .i0 with a powervent..

When you said it went four marks from zero, I suspect you were at .04" which is perfect..

Greg L


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