manometer install

Looks good. I used old fashion copper tubing at the Ace hardware store. I had to grind the end of the pipe a little to get the rubber tubing to fit and then I glued it on.

Ok, just got the Mark II 25 today and I think I know what I'm doing (but that's usually dangerous) so let me just make sure of a couple of things if that's ok,
I'm going to mount it on the wall behind the stove and level then add fluid (that part was in the instructions but the instructions only show how to hook into a ventilation unit)
I have a hand fed Kodiak with an elbow out of the back, next section has the baro. so I drill a hole in the top of the elbow/bottom of the baro piece and insert some tubing (I'd remove one of the screws and use that hole but the building inspector s coming back once i have the plenum installed and they are a stickler for the 3 screw rule). does size matter here as long as the tubing that came with the unit fits over the end? or will the size of the tip alter the reading enough to worry about.

Also I see in previous posts that it says to put the tube in the low side and leave the high side open, if I'm looking at the front of the gauge the low side is the opening on the left and high side is the one on the right?

It's pretty warm in MA tonight so I'm letting it go out so I plan on installing tomorrow

Appreciate any and all answers.

ray in ma wrote:Also I see in previous posts that it says to put the tube in the low side and leave the high side open, if I'm looking at the front of the gauge the low side is the opening on the left and high side is the one on the right?

Looking at the gauge the high side is the one on the left and low side is the one on the right. Yes, hook up to the low side, it gives you a larger scale is all.

Hello Ray,, your mounting sounds correct, you can use any size tubing,, I used a piece of steel brake-line, I just cut off the ends to make it a clean piece of tubing.. you could use small copper tubing too, the heat in the flue isn't that hot..

I can't remeber which port to plug the hose into on the meter,, just zero the fluid, then try the hose on one side then the other,, you want the fluid to move to the right, where the long, expanded scale is..

Greg L.

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Thanks guys
I think I have some lp gas line tucked away somewhere, I'll try to see if the rubber tubbing fits over

ray in ma wrote:I think I have some lp gas line tucked away somewhere, I'll try to see if the rubber tubbing fits over

You can get a barbed fitting (my mano came with 2) at HD or lowes that has 1/4 or 1/8 pipe fitting on the other end. And buy a compression fitting that will fit on you LP tubing with the matching female thread for your barbed fitting. That is how I hooked mine up because the hole in that rubber tubing is quite small and can be a pain to get onto the LP tubing.

Happy Thanksgiving fellow coal burners.

I just installed a manometer a short time ago. An AA-130 is drawing about 0.01 or maybe a bit more at idle. When it kicked on, the reading went down to 0.00. Wasn't expecting this. Then it occurred to me that maybe I didn't plan well. I installed the tap at the downstream end of an elbow. (See pic) Made me think the pressure of the fan is driving the reading down.

Before I start drilling new holes I thought I'd get a second or third opinion. Should I move the tap downstream of the elbow. I got over two feet of straight pipe after the elbow.

Ed...

The draft should be measured at the boiler's breach, i.e. in the flue pipe near where it connects to the boiler. See photo in my post manometer install

Thanks.

Ed...

I'm having the "melting tube" issue with my manometer install. I could use the manometer very briefly, but once the stack got heated-up, it was too brief to get a meaningful reading.

If I hook-up a brake line as described above, will that allow me to leave the hose connected all the time? How hot will that brake line get? Melt-a-rubber-hose hot? Will it still be a "connect only briefly" setup?

You readings must be before the Baro, somewhere close to the stove or in the stove itself.

However, If you have a DV mounted to the stove, it has to be before the DV and/or in the stove somewhere. A power Vent should be taken close to the stove, before the baro.

Tubing - Yes, that is what most of us use. A piece of brake line or copper tubing, it will get warm about 6-12" and then cool off, so your rubber tubing will not melt. I would use at least have 1 Foot to 18"+ of metal tubing.

I used about 2 Feet of copper tubing and leaving mine hooked up all the time on both stoves.

I see Dwyer has U tube manometers, I want to install one permanently and mount it on the wall. Does anyone know of a model # thatgives a good reading in the .0 -.06 range that we need? Everyone seems to like the model 25. I was looking for a round vacuum gauge that reads in the hundredths but no luck so far.

A U-tube is not capable of being read at the very low pressures we see in our chimneys.. a U-tube is just a tube of water.. so a .1" reading is 1/10 of an inch, this would be very difficult to read,, but we need to read .04-.06" of wc.. so you would not be able to see this in a U-tube meter..

You want a Dwyer Mark II Model 25, this manometer expands the the 0-.1'wc scale to about 1.25 " so it is much easier to read.. each .01" is about 1/8th inch wide.

There are a lot of photos on the site of the Dwyer Manometer installed..

Greg L

Thanks, Greg. Very clear to me now. I still want to find a scientific instrument that has a 0 to, say, .1 wc scale that is wide and readable, I've come this far so I should continue to listen and spring for the Dwyer 25.

^ Dwyer 25 all the way. Just got mine installed 20 mins ago. I am a little worried because in order to keep it at .04 the baro is 70% open. I put the "low" hose into the stove pipe. Hopefully I used enough copper pipe. I have the stove on low right now. I will readjust the baro when I have the stove set on high.