manometer install

yes, it should be calibrated on HIGH burn rate. You draft will go up the hotter it gets and the colder it gets outside.

That just means you have really good draft, mine is open 1/3-1/2 almost all the time when it's cold outside (below 20 or so).

Shouldn't be a problem.

I have a question regarding the manometer installation. I have a keystoker A-300 in my home, and I'm in the process of putting it together. On the a-300, there is a hole in the fire door for a manometer probe. I have bought a dwyer manometer, thinking that I was going to put that into the stack pipe, but after talking to the keystoker factory, they said that this is not necessary.

I would like to use it, as I already bought it, and it is nicely placed on the side of my furnace.

so,

1. Can I use this to probe into my fire door? I was thinking of putting a metal end on the rubber line (like brake line or something similar) and using it in that capacity.

2. Can it hurt to hook it up to the stack pipe and read off of there as well? I figured it might be good to know what's going on up the chimney, right?

Just need some clarification, that's all.

You can monitor it just about anywhere. The Door, pipe, etc...before the Baro Damper.

I have one on my Hyfire in the pipe just about 18" before the baro and my other one directly into the side of my stove (Direct vent, so no place to monitor). Should give you about the same readings where ever you take the tap. You just need to measure the vacuum of the stove and/or pipe.

WNY,

A couple questions:

So if I do install it on the stack pipe, it should go before the barometric damper? Also, how far should it go into the pipe? Is it something where it just goes on the surface, or should be taken from exactly center of the diameter? Not sure if that makes a difference.

So I guess what you're saying is that I can hook it up there in the stack pipe in addition to reading it in the probe area?

Thanks for your help

art1339 wrote:1. Can I use this to probe into my fire door? I was thinking of putting a metal end on the rubber line (like brake line or something similar) and using it in that capacity.

2. Can it hurt to hook it up to the stack pipe and read off of there as well? I figured it might be good to know what's going on up the chimney, right?

Just need some clarification, that's all.

What you will check at the fire door is overfire draft, that may not be the same as the draft in the stovepipe. Check your draft to set the baro in the stovepipe prior to the baro only.

I just wanted to clarify--did you mean that I should set the draft in my firebox prior to connecting to the stack pipe?

yes, BEFORE the baro damper, somewhere between the stove and baro. Make sure you have a good fire going when setting the baro. It doesn't have to go into the pipe, just the hole itself, Just put a connector on the pipe with a piece of copper tubing or brakes line of about 1 foot to 18" (For heat resistance) and then hook your tubing to that.

You can check the ash door also, It shouldn't much difference between the two, but may be slight.

You can leave it connected to either place, or just check when you need to. I leave mine hooked up all the time to monitor the draft in the pipe.

Got my Dwyer 25 the other day, and will probably install this weekend... So what I'm looking at here is to get a copper compression fitting, threaded on one end to go into stack about 12" above the stove but below the Baro. Run about 2' of copper line over to the Dwyer and connect the hose that came with it to the copper, and the other end goes to the low side fitting. Before I hook it up, follow the instructions about turning the knobs and filling the reservoir. Does the fitting that goes into the stack need to be glued with some high temp silicon? If I remove the fitting how do you fill the hole?
Thanks

I've got everything set to install the manometer, but two questions, stupid one first, is there any problem drilling and installing this while the stove is opperating? Like are the fumes combustionable or anything?... and do I have to hurry drilling out the hole... will alot of CO come out of this hole while I'm trying to get everything hooked up or will it actually suck room air in?

Thanks in advance.

I would be really careful doing that! You better not put any undue pressure on your pipe with your drill, I've had pipes come apart with a fire going in the past and that is getting into risky territory. I would have some heat proof gloves ready. You should support the other side of the pipe if you're going to put any pressure from a drill on the pipe! I think a small hole would suck in air if there is a draft going on inside the pipe, as soon as it is drilled. I hope all your pipes are screwed together! Adjustable elbows are a weak spot too, they can come apart at the seams. Be extremely careful if you do this. Just my opinion, others might insist you shut it down even for this simple operation!

great info for sure... I have nice gloves that I can wear to support the other side of the pipe while I drill... I plan on starting with a smaller hole and just increase the diameter slowly. The pipes are in good shape as far as sturdiness... All have at least thress screws at each connection and man it was tuff getting it apart when I cleaned it out this past December.

Dann757 wrote:I would be really careful doing that! You better not put any undue pressure on your pipe with your drill, I've had pipes come apart with a fire going in the past and that is getting into risky territory. I would have some heat proof gloves ready. You should support the other side of the pipe if you're going to put any pressure from a drill on the pipe! I think a small hole would suck in air if there is a draft going on inside the pipe, as soon as it is drilled. I hope all your pipes are screwed together! Adjustable elbows are a weak spot too, they can come apart at the seams. Be extremely careful if you do this. Just my opinion, others might insist you shut it down even for this simple operation!

Good luck, yeah make sure your drill bits are sharp. I haven't hooked up my manometer yet, I'm sure I will drill "hot" too.

ok, so I'm done with the install.. I just drilled the hole just smaller then the copper water line, and then shaved down the water line to fit in the hole on the stack. Dwyer 25 was set at 0 and when I hooed up the tube to the low side it went to .05. My Damper is closed and I have a half burn going (stack temp at 300)
So is this good or should I be trying to get it down to 04?

Thanks

I would adjust the weights on the baro so it flutters lightly at the current setting that way it won't go any higher. Then again you can adjust the weight to achieve exactly -.04" WC if you like, that is the beauty of having a manometer.

Looking for guidance on installing a manometer on a Russo #1. It is locate on my hearth and is pipe into a masonry fireplace. The baro is located in a tee right off the rear of the stove. This tee is connected to a custom transition that connects to the damper on the fireplace. This was a professional install back in the early 80's. I have room to place a connection for the manometer between the baro and the fireplace damper. Will this give me accurate information in order to set the baro properly? If not is there another location that will provide decent information on draft. Thanks