Glenwood No 9 Base Burner-(hopefully) a few photos

Hey Will,
Congratulations on the No. 9! Gotta love the details on the casting. Base heater and base burner, what a combination. Should we feel sorry for the SA even if you promised it a future place?
L

lobsterman wrote:Hey Will,
Congratulations on the No. 9! Gotta love the details on the casting. Base heater and base burner, what a combination. Should we feel sorry for the SA even if you promised it a future place?
L

Thanks Lobsterman.
No the Stanley Argand is getting some well deserved rest after working hard for 3 seasons. It is upstairs in a corner all dusted off with candles in it. It will be put back into use when I add on a new kitchen, den and adjoining Solarium/Screened Back Porch.
I am anxious to try out the No 9. The rest of the Summer is going to drag by. On the New Base Burner I tightened the springs in the dampers and they fit tight as a drum now. I caulked all of the inside seams as well as around the barrel where it fits onto the base. I think it is going to be a very tight stove. I won't know for sure until I put a fire in it and give it the old flame test, but; I'm more than a little confident that its going to be an outstanding performer.

Here are a few more shots. I finished the polishing and got the stove in place on the Hearth. All that is left to do is put the pipe up and its ready to go.

Looks great. The fire pot is difficult to understand from the picture. I see the lower shaking grate and then some fire brick, but then another grate above that. Does the coal go all the way up to and cover that upper grate? If so it will make for a very unusual and interesting air pattern.

franco b wrote:Looks great. The fire pot is difficult to understand from the picture. I see the lower shaking grate and then some fire brick, but then another grate above that. Does the coal go all the way up to and cover that upper grate? If so it will make for a very unusual and interesting air pattern.

I believe that is the base burner exhaust ring Franco. When in BB mode the exhaust is pulled through that ring of slots and down. So no, you would not want to pile coal that high.

Nice pix William. I like the grainy effect and the lighting is very natural.

William..... You really know how to pick them. Very nice stove there. Bet you can't wait for the cold weather to come along. Good luck with the new stove.

franco b wrote:Looks great. The fire pot is difficult to understand from the picture. I see the lower shaking grate and then some fire brick, but then another grate above that. Does the coal go all the way up to and cover that upper grate? If so it will make for a very unusual and interesting air pattern.

The fire pot is very deep versus width. The grate above the fire pot is where the exhaust gets pulled downward into the base heating chambers on each side of the stove before it escapes back up the rear pipe to exit. You load the coal up to the top of where you see the refractory lining, but; not above it. In fact I have found out that over stacking the fire pot is how these stoves get ruined. What happens is this: ash and bits of coal fall down into the base heating chambers and builds up. There are clean out doors in the back of the stove to clean that area out, but; people, being lazy, are negligent about cleaning it. This leads to the ash and stuff laying for years down in there and humidity and moisture soaking up like a sponge inside the chambers and rusting the stove out from the inside. So if you find one of these and you want to buy it. Take a flash light and make sure you look inside the base heating chambers to make sure they are clean and sound.

By the way, the internally suspended fire pot in this particular design is one of the elements that make these things so efficient. The fire is insulated from excessive heat loss from the fire pot surface area and therefore the coal bed temperature is a lot higher and remains more even thoughout the burn cycle.

What size coal are you going to run in this one William?

SteveZee wrote:What size coal are you going to run in this one William?

I think it going to have to take Nut Coal. I don't think the fire pot is large enough for Stove size. I will try both and see. I don't really want to have to stock two sizes of coal. Stove works the best in the No 6, but; it burns Nut just fine. Nut coal is just slower to respond to draft changes than Stove is. Big stoves need big coal.

wsherrick wrote:By the way, the internally suspended fire pot in this particular design is one of the elements that make these things so efficient. The fire is insulated from excessive heat loss from the fire pot surface area and therefore the coal bed temperature is a lot higher and remains more even thoughout the burn cycle.

That fire pot is not only insulated, but super insulated by being surrounded by hot exhaust gas. I think that design could make a convert of me. I suspect it will even burn wood cleaner than your no. 6. Looking forward to your impressions once both are running.

It's going to be hard to figure out where are the best places to put thermometers to monitor the performance of the stove. The fire pot is insulated by the hot gas going down around it and the gas is given a temperature bump by the fire pot as it goes by on its way down to the base heating chambers. It is a mutually beneficial arrangement. Pluse there is a lot of radiating surface to put heat out into the room. Plus you get micro control of the fire as well. You have 5 dampers to set to regulate the burn rate. These things have an internal check damper in the bottom of the stove. Besides setting the amount of air you allow in with the primary and secondary dampers, the check damper at the bottom can be set to allow primary air to be directly diverted to the back pipe and out. This action short circuits the primary air path from flowing upward through the grates to directly passing outward into the back pipe. And of course you have the standard pipe damper over all to control the flow rate. You can operate these stoves at very low firing rates and still maintain a high combustion efficiency at the same time.

wsherrick wrote:It's going to be hard to figure out where are the best places to put thermometers to monitor the performance of the stove. The fire pot is insulated by the hot gas going down around it and the gas is given a temperature bump by the fire pot as it goes by on its way down to the base heating chambers. It is a mutually beneficial arrangement. Pluse there is a lot of radiating surface to put heat out into the room. Plus you get micro control of the fire as well. You have 5 dampers to set to regulate the burn rate. These things have an internal check damper in the bottom of the stove. Besides setting the amount of air you allow in with the primary and secondary dampers, the check damper at the bottom can be set to allow primary air to be directly diverted to the back pipe and out. This action short circuits the primary air path from flowing upward through the grates to directly passing outward into the back pipe. And of course you have the standard pipe damper over all to control the flow rate. You can operate these stoves at very low firing rates and still maintain a high combustion efficiency at the same time.

Sounds like it's going to really be some fun getting to know the newest member of your family of stoves William. I too, am looking forward to getting the skinny on my Herald. She'll be a "Star" no doubt! (pun intended). As I mentioned over on the other thread, I've been using a powerful flashlight in the dark down from the top. This allows me to pinpoint any light leaks with finger of cement at the ready.
I do feel that it's quite airtight now although, I wish the shaker fork was a bit longer. The original was 14" and change but broken. The replacement grate is perfect but the fork is only 10 1/2 inches long. Pulling it out to clear the shelf/lip above gets close to begining to dump the fire. It will possible to use as is, but with care. I'm really thinking that I may have to order another grate/fork set up from Woodsmanspartsplus which has a proper sized round grate with 14 1/2" fork. This is ideal but it's also $169. Ordering just the fork is not an option either as it's wider in this grouping (than my grate's slots).

Another possibility is to send it to the foundrey and see if they can copy it, but lengthen by 4" or so? I'm certain that a "one off" from the foundrey will surely cost more than a new grate and fork. What a quandary!

SteveZee wrote: I wish the shaker fork was a bit longer.

Why can't you extend that handle?

I was also thinking it would be possible for a good welder to make it as long as you want.

franco b wrote:

wsherrick wrote:By the way, the internally suspended fire pot in this particular design is one of the elements that make these things so efficient. The fire is insulated from excessive heat loss from the fire pot surface area and therefore the coal bed temperature is a lot higher and remains more even thoughout the burn cycle.

That fire pot is not only insulated, but super insulated by being surrounded by hot exhaust gas. I think that design could make a convert of me. I suspect it will even burn wood cleaner than your no. 6. Looking forward to your impressions once both are running.

Franco: take care! I think the Antique/Base Burner fever seems very close to you but it's the best fever, once you get it you don't ask for a cure!