Sting wrote:amend the soil ph more to their tolerance
SMITTY wrote:I know with blueberries you need a pollinator ... or they do nothing.
VigIIPeaBurner wrote:Mess with the pH first before you do any supplementing with the aluminum sulfate. Check the pH of the leaf mulch. That just might be all you'll have to use and then forgo the aluminum sulfate. Leaf much tends to be on the acidic side, especially if it's from oak variates. Do a few test batchs, blending leaf mulch and your soil together then check how the pH has been changed. Once you home in on the blend, just repeat it on a larger scale around the plant beds.
Got any municipal compost places nearby? All that yuppie yard wast has to go somewhere and that's just the stuff you need too. Pile it on!
Once you get the soil ajusted to target as near to the plants as you feel comfy doing , just mulch near the plants with a few inches of leaf mulch. Keep the entire area moist as they require and most likely earth worms will move in and mix it all together and keep the soil aerated as a result.
Your plant bed isn't too close to a tree line drip edge is it? You would be amazed at how much water a tree sucks out of the ground. It's one of their way of keeping shallow rooted completion on the weak and loosing side.
VigIIPeaBurner wrote:I'm not sure how those pH kits work. Do they have you adding about 50% water and checking the solution after a period of time? That's what I recall reading about checking soil pH. I didn't mean to check the pH of a few different places although that's good practice. I meant to take a small bag of soil from a known area (cubic inches), weigh it and blend mulch/compost, take a final weight and recheck the pH. If you keep track of how much mulch it took to get to your pH right, you can figure how much mulch it will take to get the garden area right. Good luck with the project
NEPA Crossroads is a creation of Nepadigital.Com ©2009 • Contact Admin | Terms of Use | Privacy Policy
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group