Should a Sealant Be Applied to Stove Pipe Sections?

Post Reply
 
User avatar
lsayre
Member
Posts: 21781
Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
Location: Ohio
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Mon. Jul. 25, 2011 8:49 pm

Yes or no? And if yes, what is your favorite type/brand?

 
User avatar
SMITTY
Member
Posts: 12526
Joined: Sun. Dec. 11, 2005 12:43 pm
Location: West-Central Mass
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 Highboy
Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler

Post by SMITTY » Mon. Jul. 25, 2011 10:26 pm

I never saw the need for this. If your pulling anything over .01" WC, then sealant is useless. Maybe if your concerned about flyash from a puffback ... but flyash under that circumstance will come out of places you never knew existed.

Ask me how I know ..... :lol:

But if I were to use anything it would be Permatex Ultra Copper RTV.

 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15243
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 5:01 am

Never did but make sure you have the male end going towards the thimble.

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30300
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 7:37 am

Funny, I've always had the male end going towards the stove--wood or coal--it's worked well for 50 yrs :? I've never used any sealant at the pipe joints.
Richard S. wrote:Never did but make sure you have the male end going towards the thimble.


 
User avatar
Poconoeagle
Member
Posts: 6397
Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 7:26 pm
Location: Tobyhanna PA

Post by Poconoeagle » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 7:46 am

male to stove for wood due to creasote running back into stove

male away from stove so all coal gas goes into next section and out of living area..

I have on occasion used Rutland high temp stove pipe sealant by wiping a sealing bead around each joint after inserting and securing with 3 screws, just cause........ it has a 2000* rating...... ;)

 
User avatar
Rob R.
Site Moderator
Posts: 18004
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Location: Chazy, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr

Post by Rob R. » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 8:30 am

I used foil tape on the EFM's pipe joints. The biggest difference I noticed is when I take the pipe down to clean out the flyash. With the seams taped I no longer get flyash shaking out the seams. That might sound trivial, but when you are trying to get eight feet of 8" pipe out of the basement without making a dust cloud...it makes a difference.

 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15243
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 8:51 am

freetown fred wrote:Funny, I've always had the male end going towards the stove--wood or coal--it's worked well for 50 yrs :? I've never used any sealant at the pipe joints.
There is a chance you'll have a gap and if the male end is facing towards the the stove it could potentially leak.
Poconoeagle wrote:male to stove for wood due to creasote running back into stove.
Never heard that but then again I don't do wood stoves. Makes sense. :)

The paradoxical question is what if it's wood/coal combo. :P

 
User avatar
Richard S.
Mayor
Posts: 15243
Joined: Fri. Oct. 01, 2004 8:35 pm
Location: NEPA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Post by Richard S. » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 8:58 am

markviii wrote:I used foil tape on the EFM's pipe joints. The biggest difference I noticed is when I take the pipe down to clean out the flyash. With the seams taped I no longer get flyash shaking out the seams. That might sound trivial, but when you are trying to get eight feet of 8" pipe out of the basement without making a dust cloud...it makes a difference.
I'm assuming you have elbow going into 8 foot section? If so use a T instead and cap the end, when it comes time for cleaning just use a shop vac. When we cleaned flue pipe we never disconnected it from boiler because the whole thing was accessible from either the T or the baro.


 
User avatar
Rob R.
Site Moderator
Posts: 18004
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Location: Chazy, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr

Post by Rob R. » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 9:33 am

Yes, I have an elbow instead of a cleanout tee. No one had an 8" cleanout tee in stock when I installed the boiler, so it ended up with elbows on each end of the flue pipe. At some point I will swap them out for tee's.

 
User avatar
Poconoeagle
Member
Posts: 6397
Joined: Sat. Nov. 08, 2008 7:26 pm
Location: Tobyhanna PA

Post by Poconoeagle » Tue. Jul. 26, 2011 10:38 pm

if its wood/coal the answer is easy................

change your name to john and move to new jersey! 8-)

 
User avatar
coalkirk
Member
Posts: 5185
Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
Location: Forest Hill MD
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal

Post by coalkirk » Wed. Jul. 27, 2011 9:24 am

markviii wrote:Yes, I have an elbow instead of a cleanout tee. No one had an 8" cleanout tee in stock when I installed the boiler, so it ended up with elbows on each end of the flue pipe. At some point I will swap them out for tee's.
The T's are great. Instead of having to shut down to clean out fly ash, you just pop off the end cap, stick in the shop vac hose and your are back in business in about 30 seconds.

 
User avatar
CoalHeat
Member
Posts: 8862
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Post by CoalHeat » Wed. Jul. 27, 2011 10:18 am

Poconoeagle wrote:if its wood/coal the answer is easy................

change your name to john and move to new jersey! 8-)
Hah! Good point.
In the beginning it was 1 wood stove and 1 coal stove, it didn't take long to see the light.

Post Reply

Return to “Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats”