Thoughts on this Champion generator?

240V are also twist lock - 4 pronged twist lock ... vs. 3 prong twist lock - which is 120V.

Now I'm confused!

SMITTY wrote:240V are also twist lock - 4 pronged twist lock ... vs. 3 prong twist lock - which is 120V.

Now I'm confused!

NEMA L6-20's are also 240vac, but only 3 prong twist lock I use one one my small welder.

SMITTY wrote:240V are also twist lock - 4 pronged twist lock ... vs. 3 prong twist lock - which is 120V.

Now I'm confused!

120/240V twist lock plugs are 4 prong, 240V ONLY plugs are 3 prong.

gerry

nortcan wrote:Questions for you: what do you mean by a RV outlet, is it a 240V one?
:what twist lock outlets are for? Better hooking?
Thanks

Twist locks (Example RV) are more secure than blade connectors. Far less likely to vibrate or pull out.

Some recent RVs are using twist lock connectors, they usually a shipped with an adapter for legacy connections.

My current pop up hybrid has a 3 prong 120V 30A twist lock inlet and a cable that has a traditional RV male blade connector on the other end.

gerry

Putting the twist lock discussion on hold a bit, read this about breaking in your new genny engine :

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

The high points:

1) Break in with dino oil, not synthetic. Dino oil facilitates wear (see 2 below).

2) Run it under load several times to load up the rings against the wall to create a better fit between rings/wall. Goal is to increase compression and reduce blow by which degrades the cyl wall/piston lubrication effect due heat from blowby. Blowby causes premature oil usage and cyl wall wear.

3) Change you oil after the first few hrs..guess what that silverly sheen is in the oil .......

Cabelas, Amazon and Tractor supply reviewssuggest that for 300 bucks @ Tractor Supply this is a winner . These last 600-1000 hrs before a OH, too expensive to OH, just buy another . If you want 7000 plus hrs before the genny craps out, buy a EU series.

Ugger