Is this space well insulated? Torch-down or EDPM rubber is satisfactory. Remember to place the torch is a safe position when not using, and try to avoid the 'Service Call; from "The Much I DO Hose Company". You have any 'priors' for arson? Just askin'??????
We used this product on our garage low slope roof. We needed super adhesion due to strong winds that blow across the fields prior to encountering the garage. This stuff works. Self adhere to the plywood base. Then self adhere to top to the flintlastic base. It ain't gonna come loose. And I believe by self adhering to the plywood it will be your ice shield.
firewoodman wrote:Need to re-roof my upstairs (2nd floor) deck roof(almost flat). Deciding to use self-adhesive roll or torch-down roll roofing. going to install ice/water sheild as base...any suggestions????
Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions to a tee. Most manufacturer's are specific about what substrate the roof material must go on.
I also am not thrilled with torch down--I've got one partial flat roof area that a contractor used it on & it was nothing but trouble. I ended up putting metal on it.No more problems. Start with a 2x4 on edge at the top & work down to 1x4 at the edge--the pitch really helped
I had a 6000 sq ft flat roof (1-1/2 in 12 pitch) done in torch-down bitumen. I think its great stuff. It's been eight years and no signs of wear or tear. The contractor was experienced with it and used the properly fastened, recommended underlayment (not ice & water barrier--which is unnecessary for any application, in my not-so-humble opinion). Torch down comes in mineral surfaced and bare surface. The advantage to the mineral surface is wear resistance and UV resistance. The advantage to the bare is a better seal; reverse seals will not leak if applied properly. The disadvantage of the bare is that it should be coated every five to ten years to prevent UV breakdown. Effectiveness for torch down is in the installer's skill.
The other disadvantage with granular coated bitumen is it's HEAVY. I recall throwing those on my shoulder & the 40' ladder bending & bouncing once I got to the middle. 110lbs per roll. Don't miss those days, I'll tell you that!
But yeah - all the stuff I did - about 99% of it was plain, non-granular coated. I can see granular helping with UV resistance - that's what kills these roofs. But we used to coat the plain ones with this silver paint that looked fantastic when fresh - like a coat of chrome - but then faded to grey pretty quickly.
And the plain stuff - I don't care if your the inventor of modified bitumen & did everything according to science - It doesn't last. Trust me.
I went with the flintlastic (3 ply)...peel and stick baby!!! When this wears out (if we are still in this house) probably will try the metal as its covering a second floor back deck over our mudroom/laundry room. thanks for the advise!!!