New (to Me) Axeman 260

I added a pilot light to indicate when the Axeman is in ashing mode. It's helpful in that I can easily see when the unit is ashing by merely glancing instead of having to stare at the ashing arm.

Speaking of ashing, I needed to adjust the temperature gauge on the anthrastat higher so that it would ash a bit more. I used an Allen key and bumped it up about 15 degrees. I believe that due to having the boiler set up for steam it naturally runs a higher temp than most hot water boilers; e.g. 212 degrees. This may affect the anthrastat in that it gets a false reading that there is hot ash at the front of the ashing tray causing it to not ash. It's been running fine since I adjusted it and seems to love this storm we are having here in Connecticut.

Here is a video showing the pilot light.

15 degrees is a big adjustment...keep on eye on and it make sure you still have plenty of "orange" visible through the spection door. You don't want to get the fire too fat and joint the 'KABOOM' club.

Townsend wrote:I added a pilot light to indicate when the Axeman is in ashing mode. It's helpful in that I can easily see when the unit is ashing by merely glancing instead of having to stare at the ashing arm.

I can hear mine ashing upatairs when all is quiet, the tel tale "click-click-clich" sound .

I like the click, click clicks too! Three of them in a row. I'll keep an eye on this tub of ash and see how it looks.

Rob, plenty of nice orange. I've yet to have any booms. Nor do I expect any. I have a great draft and when my inspection plate is free there is good air.

A recent ash tub.

Your ash looks great.

Lovin' that Lehigh! Wish I had an Ebay account to get that ashtray with their name on it.

Wow Steve! That puppy looks like it's running mighty fine!

Happy New Year everyone.

Well, the year is starting off with a financial bang. Within two days my washing machine broke down, my truck's alternator left me stranded in Hartford CT and finally my anthrastat up and died. I noticed my fire pot kept getting a smaller burn and was not ashing. Tried adjusting the anthrastat (the proper way, hex key) without success. Luckily, my good friend Adam installed a switch on the anthrastat wiring to allow me to manually ash without having to jury rig the ashing arm lever block. It's a nice handy feature that has allowed me to keep steaming while I await a new anthrastat from Axeman Anderson.

Here are some pics of Adam and the switch.

I should be getting the new anthrastat today. I'll try testing and fiddling with the old one. It does not seem to be out of adjustment, rather it is completely unable to go off on temp.

I'd like to order a back up solenoid too just to have on hand. Axeman states that my 260 (early 80's vintage) would require a new bracket as well because they only have newer model solenoids. I'm going to look for a used solenoid to keep on hand.

Received the new anthrastat. Quick install. Here it is.

Make sure to never turn the black knob! Always use an Allen wrench.

Steve: that's a a real nice looking Anthrastat, does it work as good as it looks?? IE: how's the boiler doing now??

You get the alternator replaced, and the washing machine repaired??

Greg L

Well, I guess the new anthrastats, mine at least, do not come adjusted. The stat came set at 140 degrees. I installed the stat right out of the box believing that Axeman would have set the gauge and tested it. But, with the stat left at the factory setting I immediately noticed ashing problems, or more specifically burn pot fire problems in that the fire was small sized and weaker than normal. Using a allen key to make adjustments, I was able to get it to switch to ash mode after turning the dial to around the 180 degree mark. At this point I wanted to make sure of the calibration of the unit,...So, it was off to the stove top with a couple of thermometers and a volt meter/tester.

I did not reset the stat at all, I kept the 140 degree setting, attached a continuity tester, placed it in a large pot of water and turned the heat to medium for a nice gradual approach to 140 degrees to see if the stat would kick on at the set mark of 140 degrees.
Well, it reached 140 but just kept slowly rising. Finally kicking on at approximately 166 degrees.
We retested the unit on both the downward movement to break continuity as well as another cycle once it cooled off and finally calibrated the stat for 140 degrees.

Not everyone was as pleased with the appropriation of cooking accouterments and incessant beeping of a continuity tester as we.

After installing the newly calibrated anthrastat we decided to take a look at the malfunctioning old stat.

When I purchased the Axeman 260 I knew it had been sitting for years. As seen earlier in this post I disassembled and cleaned nearly everything on the boiler. I did not want to mess with the anthrastat at that time and it was working well for last heating season. But, clearly, it had seen better days.

Yuck!!! Rust and age.
By looking at the above pic you can see where the tube enters the unit. The black box is the switch and contact is made when the tube contracts from cooling and pulls the metal plate to bridge a connection. Notice the glob of rust at the end of the tube inside the housing. Probably not good for efficient transfer of contraction/expansion.

A test of the old stat by heating and cooling could not get the switch to make or break continuity.

Since I had the new anthrastat I figured it couldn't hurt to take the old one apart for a little information seeking dissection. We disassembled it completely and cleaned the rust off. After placing it back together we slowly heated the tube while having the continuity tester hooked up. Bingo!!! The old stat sprang back to life!!! It was double tested and set for 140 degrees.
Very happy! Now I have a back up anthastat should the need arise or can be utilized by a fellow Axeman owner.

It was now time for beer and pizza.

Nice job. I'd spray that anthrastat with WD40 and store it somewhere warm & dry.