Submerged Riello burner

Any idea how to bring a boiler that was submerged for a couple of hours back to life? When we went to bed Wednesday there was only half an inch of water in the basement, and I thought that was due to a window well that I didn't cover very well. We live on a big hill so I just tarped the window well better and went to bed. Then next morning we had a couple of inches in the boiler room, and it looks like we had a foot overnight. We also had no hot water and pressing the reset button on my Riello 40 series F5 burner does nothing. I thought maybe I tripped the circuit breaker, but it is fine. Then I took the cover off the burner and a bunch of water leaked out, so it must have got partially submerged (it is 6 to 12 inches from the floor).

All 3 HVAC guys that I have ever used live in flooded areas and can't reach me. So I am wondering if there is something maybe I should try to bring this thing back to life. Until I do, we have no hot water. Of course, a lot of other people around here don't have any electicity or water, so I don't feel so bad. But I'd kinda like to get this boiler running so that I can offer them a hot (not cold) shower. Any ideas?

If the gray box, with the reset button, Master control, gets wet, it is ruined. printed circuits and water don't mix. don't forget the cad cell, not included with new primary. The motor on riellos use ball bearings. dirty water rusts and ruins bearings. pump solenoids usually survive if not wet for too long. new motor and control, clean up fan blade and nozzle assembly, burner should be good, rebuilt a half dozen down here in last 2 weeks.

Wow. Sounds like this will set me back a bit. Maybe just as much $$ to replace the whole burner unit?

I don’t know about a Riello but I had a Carlin completely submerged years ago and all I did was pull it out of the boiler, dry it out with a hair dryer and fire it back up. The motor and control box never failed, I used it several more years and eventually gave it to a local plumber in trade for some work done. It was still in working order when I gave it away. I would dry it and see if it runs, replace parts if and when they fail. That is what I would do if money were tight.

Have you confirmed that it won't run as-is? Stranger things have happened...

Scottsman wrote:Wow. Sounds like this will set me back a bit. Maybe just as much $$ to replace the whole burner unit?

It will be about $200 for a new control and motor (that assumes your local supply house doesn't murder you on the price). The motor is not a 5 minute install, if you have to pay someone to replace it...you might want to just buy a new F5 chassis and have someone do the final combustion adjustments. I am a big fan of Riello burners, but you can also look around for a used Beckett or Carlin and swap it on.

What model is the boiler?

I've never done this but 2 friends that did electronic repairs use to take any flood damaged circuit boards and such and wash them off with distilled water. Seems the crud in the flood waters that's left behind is what causes the problems. Let it all dry out or use forced air like a hair dryer and see if it comes back to working order. Rusting bearings are another issue.

The boiler is a Weil McLain, probably 40 years old--at least. I just get my hot water and backup heat out of this boiler, so I don't really expect much of it, in terms of efficiency. But we do like hot water:

I was looking at simplyplumbing.com and found one for $339,76. That seems like a good price. If I can just get someone to install it, then maybe that's the way to go.

You probably won't find a better price on the complete burner. I bought a Riello from them two years ago.

I would take the cover off the control and blow it out with comp. air and dry it with a fan. I would also clean off the cad cell/ photo eye as well. Remove the nozzle and replace it or clean it by soaking it in kerosene or parts cleaner. If you get no activity at all it is most likely the control box causing the issue at this point. Also check to make sure the motor circuit breaker/ overload isn't tripped as well. I'm more familiar with beckett's and carlin's but if I remember the riello's have a seperate motor reset as well. Best thing you can do at this point is dry everything out real well and go from there.

Most electronic circuit boards can get wet as long as no power is on them. Make sure they are perfectly clean and dry before applying power. If the get wet with power on them, all bets are off as the water will short them and fry the components and burn off tracings. The dirtier the water, the more conductive it is.