Home Stove Works

Dave, are you so shure that there is no Steve under the bed LOL. Sorry for the name but I have a ""fix"" on Steve LOL.
Maybe the sliding inside part of the damper is not the original one or the exterior one? Or warp from overheating?

Well it looks good looks real original and I don't know about warp have to think on it

Hello Smithy,

First off --> Incredible stove + very cool install!

I may way off here but is it possible that the rear damper plate is installed upside down? The numbers on the plate appear to be upside down and you can also see worn spots on the very top of the plate which would make sense if the plate was flipped 180*.

Just a thought...

ashburnham55 wrote:Hello Smithy,

First off --> Incredible stove + very cool install!

I may way off here but is it possible that the rear damper plate is installed upside down? The numbers on the plate appear to be upside down and you can also see worn spots on the very top of the plate which would make sense if the plate was flipped 180*.

Just a thought...

Thank you very much. And thank the members of this fourm or I would have never been here doing this and enjoying my self so much with athe new hobby/obsession / passion addiction

Ashburnham55. Iwill have to take this appart and try something different. When cleaning the parts up I never separated the two pieces. An added note the thing is been running pretty good with some ash on the grate and a full magazine I have been able to controls the temperature from 150 to 450 now that the weather has turned cooler.

smithy wrote:

ashburnham55 wrote:Hello Smithy,

First off --> Incredible stove + very cool install!

I may way off here but is it possible that the rear damper plate is installed upside down? The numbers on the plate appear to be upside down and you can also see worn spots on the very top of the plate which would make sense if the plate was flipped 180*.

Just a thought...

Thank you very much. And thank the members of this fourm or I would have never been here doing this and enjoying my self so much with athe new hobby/obsession / passion addiction

Ashburnham55. Iwill have to take this appart and try something different. When cleaning the parts up I never separated the two pieces. An added note the thing is been running pretty good with some ash on the grate and a full magazine I have been able to controls the temperature from 150 to 450 now that the weather has turned cooler.

Excellent!

On mine I put a small rope gasket all around the stove's "lip", where the ash pit's door seals. I fixed the gasket to the stovewith Ultra Black Silicone, hold good plus stay more flexible than HT cement. Much more air tight now.

Yes yes my northern friend there are a few places that will need some attention with your prescribed solution. Question how wide were your gaps and this ones a little personal .... but dose your brides doors tighten up a bit.. once she warms up ?

smithy wrote:Yes yes my northern friend there are a few places that will need some attention with your prescribed solution. Question how wide were your gaps and this ones a little personal .... but dose your brides doors tighten up a bit.. once she warms up ?

On my stove the doors weren't very airtight. Some places the gaps were small or very small some others quite large, the lower front door having micas had a very large gap and the hinges adjustments couldn't take a so big gap. So I had to make a little back support for the big rope gasket, I said a small cause the fire pot comes out of the stove from that door like a drawer so I couldn't have the support very high. Good but not enough so I placed a smaller rope at the back of the big one where the gap was bigger, fixed all that with U.B.S. Now when I close that door I can feel the compression from the door on the gaskets. Stays like that cold or hot. Good Bride...

I think this door and the ash pit's one are very important for not having air leak. Since I put a small rope gasket around the ash pit opening, the stove seems easier to control. I said seems because I lited the Bride only yesterday AM but it works very well and can be control much more easier than before in comparable situation.

Keep on testing air gaps with $ bill and/or with a light in the stove (I like to use a small leed one gives a white intense light) so you will be able to make the stove more air tight.

Hello Smithy,

I just wanted to explain myself a little better ... My last post on your thread did not make sense.

What I should of stated is that if you pull apart the damper slide on your ash door and spin it 180* and put it back together I believe the gaps will disappear. Please look at the pictures below.

I do not believe you would need to use a rope gasket as the pieces would line up like they were intended.

The idea from ashburnhamt55 is a very good one and could be easily tried. An errror in assembling these 2 parts can be a problem.
On my last post, the gasket rope is not for that same place but for where the door's frame seals with the ash pit opening contour making an air tight seal when closing the ash pit door.

smithy...... I have to agree with Ashburnham55 after seenig the picture of the draft door and slide. The wear spot is on the top of the slide. It should wear on the bottom where it makes contact. I would take the slide off and turn it over. I think it line up better and slide right into place.

Ok the reversal did not work seems the worn area was an attempt to fit slide at assembly I thought the rivit looked original when I broke it.
The gate looks lime it was cast defective? I doubt it was warped its located at one of the coolest places on the stove.
The photo shows the twist [img][img][img][*][/img][/img]

Just an idea, did you checked if the serie of numbers on the door and slide seems to correspond to the others numbers series on the others parts of the stove? Just to make shure it's the original door?

Yes my northern neighbor, the stove parts are either marked 212 or 214 . The door and slide are both marked 214.
if I leave some ashes on the grate its ok it seems to me its more the operator than the appliance and I don't mind to finesse her a bit.
I believe I will build a new gate when I run out of indoor projects
The photo shows the gap at the top of the slide.

Yep, got ya Smithy. Well, as your name states you might "smith" up something or maybe try to "correct" the one you have with some carefully applied layers of JB Weld or the like? Maybe some braising? Or, you might just block off that small intake leak area with some HT Ultrablack permatex. That would be the easiest fix.