Home Stove Works

That sounds right Pierre. I'll bet its similar to the clinker door on my Herald. I saw those teeth on the bottom of the firepot so that's why thought that but you say the grates are lower than the teeth. The outside ring works just like the shaker in mine I guess except mine rotates the whole grate. Your's is like a combo of bar grates in my Glenwood and the drawbar grates in the Herald. I guess you don't use the middle except to dump the fire like the fork in the drawbar grates. To shake it down you use that outer ring.

SteveZee wrote:That sounds right Pierre. I'll bet its similar to the clinker door on my Herald. I saw those teeth on the bottom of the firepot so that's why thought that but you say the grates are lower than the teeth. The outside ring works just like the shaker in mine I guess except mine rotates the whole grate. Your's is like a combo of bar grates in my Glenwood and the drawbar grates in the Herald. I guess you don't use the middle except to dump the fire like the fork in the drawbar grates. To shake it down you use that outer ring.

Here is the gap between the firepot lower teeth and the outer round grate. How do we use them???????Time will tell! Maybe just shake the center ones and have less ash dust falling all around???
You are right the center grates on my Bride are triangular like in the Glenwood.

Yes Pierre you are correct on the grates the picture show the details.as far as vents or holes at the top go there is nothing but a cover under cover

Well my guess would be that you'll shake the outside ring back and forth for the most of the shakedown. The middle can be shook a little in very short strokes but not to much or the coal will dump.

That magazine is impressive though Smithy. It's quite large. That stove should burn for a good long time between loadings.

It looks like you are making great progress. The stove should be back together in no time. I did not see the damper valve that goes in the back of the stove. It's purpose is to change the flow of exhaust from direct draft to base burner mode. One of the two exit openings in the back of the stove, just at the top of the fire pot should have a damper that closes off the direct path from the fire to the chimney.

We'll have to see Steve it almost seems that there is a bit moor room above the magazine. I guess you just keep filling to the top.
Actualy the progress is still at dry fit and see. As wsherrick has identified the missing flap.
one will have to be made.

I am going to sand blast all the meeting surfaces that will be cemented . any suggestions on how to remove oil based paint that someone lovingly painted the stove with!!

Thankful

I have been reading about Pierre's bride and on page 37 franco b posted a page showing a similar set up as Pierre's stove and mine, the duplex grate , the add mentions burning coke .... I was under the impression coke wont burn on a naturally aspirated solid fuel device ? are they talking about something different ?

smithy wrote:I have been reading about Pierre's bride and on page 37 franco b posted a page showing a similar set up as Pierre's stove and mine, the duplex grate , the add mentions burning coke .... I was under the impression coke wont burn on a naturally aspirated solid fuel device ? are they talking about something different ?

Sure you can burn Coke in the stove. Coke is what is left burning after all the hydrocarbons are burned away. Coke is coal with all of the gas taken out of it. It's not that available these days for retail consumption however.

I have been working on the damper valve as one was not included the new on is made of 11ga and .5" hot rolled I had to sand blast the old paint to remove as it smoked when you heated it next is what looks like an other valve below the damper to replace

Excellent job on the Base Burning damper. That should hold up very well. The other damper below is very, very important. That is the check damper. The stove will not work without that in place. The check damper is for the purpose of short circuiting the draft from under the fire to give you perfect control of the fire. When the damper is open, the stove won't draw properly when starting a fire. Many base burners also have a damper to recirculate the gasses from the fire back under the grates to re burn the gasses.

Well done Smithy! Looks like your right on top of it.

Thanks Steve !
What size stove bolts do you think 10/24 or a quarter 20? the quarter 20 seem a little too big . the stove was assembled for decoration with what look like 10/32 nickel plate . Not sure which direction to go and wish I could get brite finished machine screws with square nuts. Also the tabs seem to be slightly tapered.don't really get complete flat purchase against the back side of the nut .

smithy wrote:Thanks Steve !
What size stove bolts do you think 10/24 or a quarter 20? the quarter 20 seem a little too big . the stove was assembled for decoration with what look like 10/32 nickel plate . Not sure which direction to go and wish I could get brite finished machine screws with square nuts. Also the tabs seem to be slightly tapered.don't really get complete flat purchase against the back side of the nut .

You can get 1/4 - 20 in square head, not sure if they are brite finished though....

I'd use the largest size that fits. You can also get tapered washers, or make them yourself if you have a way...

dj

dlj wrote:

smithy wrote:Thanks Steve !
What size stove bolts do you think 10/24 or a quarter 20? the quarter 20 seem a little too big . the stove was assembled for decoration with what look like 10/32 nickel plate . Not sure which direction to go and wish I could get brite finished machine screws with square nuts. Also the tabs seem to be slightly tapered.don't really get complete flat purchase against the back side of the nut .

You can get 1/4 - 20 in square head, not sure if they are brite finished though....

I'd use the largest size that fits. You can also get tapered washers, or make them yourself if you have a way...

dj

I agree with that too Smithy. I'd go for the the largest size I can get through the hole. I've never seen the tapered washers that DJ mentioned but that sounds like a solution. I see what you mean now that I maximized the picture......hmm? I wonder if something these would do it? http://www.brooksforgings.co.uk/square- ... ashers.asp That's UK company but you might find some here on line?

SteveZee wrote:I agree with that too Smithy. I'd go for the the largest size I can get through the hole. I've never seen the tapered washers that DJ mentioned but that sounds like a solution. I see what you mean now that I maximized the picture......hmm? I wonder if something these would do it? http://www.brooksforgings.co.uk/square- ... ashers.asp That's UK company but you might find some here on line?

Check these out:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#tapered-washers/=e7v5w6

dj