Home Stove Works

Job is going good for you Smithy.
By the way, what did you do with the missing teeth?

You know maybe I should try and burn it without them before trying to put teeth back in there, might be a poking advantage with them gone!

"I heard that somewhere before"?

Is there anyway to specify which way a picture in a post will be displayed weather portrait or landscape?

Well I usually just make sure, that if I tilt my camera 90 degrees to take a verticle shot, I download it to my computer and "flip it" it before posting.

Probably won't hurt to try it out as is. A test run is good thing.

it should've be to much problem as the firepot slides out fairly easy
I have been lazy and using my phone camera

Smithy,

Nope you won't have any problems at all using chestnut sized or stove. My Herald has a clinker door bigger than that, and it's located right at that same level. I can open it (usually to light the stove) and while I do it carefull, nothing's ever fallen out. At the bare minimum, it's fine for a test run. I've never opened it when the stoves is going but people do, to freshen up a fire before shaking etc.. Could be there purposly for shaking aid, or clinker removal?

Well there is fellow across the river who sells coal blashazack I think is the brand nut is the size don't know about the size or the brand but its the only game in town!

It seems to me there is a pretty large space between the magazine and the top of the firepot about 3.5" you know the suspence is too much to bear

Smithy,

Yep, Blaschak is the brand, nut is the size. For handfired stoves the usual sizes are pea, nut or stove. Pea is probably too small most due to that gap. Nut is the size I would start will. That's what I use in both of my stoves. Blaschak is a good coal. Very uniform and blended for a consistant product. Grab a couple of bags for your trial run. Once you have kindled and then have a full firepot going well, you would then fill the hopper. You don't have to fill/use the hopper for a test run. It's primary use is to extend the burn times.

The next thing is to get a little more tile on the floor what you guys figure for clearance to combustible? It's 53 deg f sposed to get maby 42 tonight need to wrap things up next week or so got about 10 bags of the wood pellets left

smithy wrote:what you guys figure for clearance to combustible?

Clearance is 3 feet, half that if surface is protected.
Protection is a sheet of metal, or ceramic or brick spaced out 1 inch from wall.

You can also install heat shield on bottom of stove if you want to lessen the need of thick floor protection. Again a sheet of metal suspended 1 inch from bottom of stove.

It is nice to have a floor protector big enough to place the coal scuttle and any tools. I like 4 ft. square. Asbestos millboard is no longer available. Micore made by USG. is a good replacement but hard to find. I have used a sheet of metal followed by half inch cement board with ceramic tile on top. If the floor protector gets too hot to hold your hand on comfortably then you need more thickness, or a heat shield on stove bottom.

What about the stove pipe?

I assume you mean what about the clearance for stove pipe? Need to check on your local codes but in my case going through the wall to chimney, there was a stud about 6" from the thimble which was too close. I used a double wall stainless thimble (good for 3" clearance). On the kitchen cookstove it was direct into the chimney so the thimbal there was just the standard grey metal. For the pipe itself you need check the local code from your fire marshal.

I believe the clearance for single walled stove pipe is 18" from combustables.

Thanks guys!

Fall is creeping in on us might get a freeze tonight. The scaffolding is built for the inside work and the chicken ladders are screwed to the roof. A rubber stack boot is on the way from roof boot express be hear Monday. We might get a break and work on the framing this weekend

Getting itchy

Smithy, the job is going good. Don't forget the photos of all the work done.