Koker Owners Question

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Mon. Jan. 19, 2015 7:45 am

I cleaned out the exhaust ports twice in the last month, and there was a decent amount of ash in there each time as well. Any harm in removing the exterior T and running a brush down the pipe? I assume the ash will fall into the bottom and could be vacuumed from there? First time for me for this, and I enjoy keeping her "breathing" well. And since I see the ash accumulating in the exhaust section, there must be a decent amount in the pipes.

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Mon. Jan. 26, 2015 6:51 am

Power Outage, not that we have had one yet, but it's time to think of what to prepare for. I have a propane-powered generator, and so far, I have enough propane to last 24-48 hours, depending on what we plug into it. First question I have is this: is there an imminent danger to the zero draft that results from the combustion fan not running. The draft may actually be slightly positive (backdraft). Will that stay confined to the stove, so as not to worry about CO? Assume we have an outage that lasts days, and the fire goes out. To be honest, the installers started this fire for me when I was not home (wife and kids were), so I need to read up on how to re-light. How do you guys re-light your Koker? Anything else I need to be prepared for?

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Tue. Mar. 17, 2015 10:26 am

The blower on my Koker 160 makes a sound about every 15 seconds, sounding like it is trying to turn on, but then does not. I have only noticed this recently, after the recent run of really cold weather, not that the blower is not running as much, with milder temperatures outside. I just don't recall this during past "idle" times. Eventually, the blower does fully activate and run for a few minutes or for whatever time needed according to its settings. Just wondered if anyone had input on whether or not this sounds normal. This Koker was new, just installed this past November.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Tue. Mar. 17, 2015 12:55 pm

Which blower is it?

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Tue. Mar. 17, 2015 1:07 pm

McGiever wrote:Which blower is it?

The 1500 CFM blower which cycles on to push air through the ductwork (or otherwise distribute it, if not connected that way, I suppose).

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Tue. Mar. 17, 2015 1:17 pm

Fan/Limit Switch controls that.

It is a bimetallic coil inserted into duct just above heat exchanger to sense air temp.
Should not go bad if non forced by hand to wind or unwind bimetallic coil.
Setting can be adjusted for fan ... But not Limit.

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Tue. Mar. 17, 2015 1:23 pm

So, not being one who is very mechanically-inclined, could it be that the air temperature is right on some line where it senses needing to turn the fan on, but then decides not? Or is it that once it is told to start blowing, it will blow for a minimum amount of time? The fan still runs well when it runs, and there is no problem that I can see keeping the house up to temperature, I was just concerned that it sounded like it wanted to start blowing and then will not, over and over, and wondered if something needed some attention.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Tue. Mar. 17, 2015 10:47 pm

ChrisS wrote:So, not being one who is very mechanically-inclined, could it be that the air temperature is right on some line where it senses needing to turn the fan on, but then decides not? Or is it that once it is told to start blowing, it will blow for a minimum amount of time? The fan still runs well when it runs, and there is no problem that I can see keeping the house up to temperature, I was just concerned that it sounded like it wanted to start blowing and then will not, over and over, and wondered if something needed some attention.

Yes, physical mounting location of Fan/Limit is important for a good average representative air temp.
Possibly the idle heat is holding near the threshold line of starting and you are witness to the closeness.

It is not good for the switch or the motor to hoover at this close point of temp and "bounce".
Change setting of switch, location of switch or adjust idle up or down a "smidgen".

When the fan does start there is a spread of temp degrees...i.e., on at 175* then off at 150*. (used these numbers as an example only)

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2015 7:12 am

Here is a photo of this switch, I assume this is the one you are referring to?? Anyway, I have not adjusted a thing on this unit since I got it, there has not been a need. The little white button on this switch can be pushed in or pulled out. Pulled all the way out, it triggers the fan. Pushed all the way in, shuts the fan down. I have it somewhere in the middle, sort of a half-way setting. How should this button be set? Or am I way off regarding what you are referring to?

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2015 7:15 am

Pulled out is on all the time (manual). Pushed in is the cycling with the heat (automatic) from the stove. Do not put it in the middle, in or out only.

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2015 7:33 am

SWPaDon wrote:Pulled out is on all the time (manual). Pushed in is the cycling with the heat (automatic) from the stove. Do not put it in the middle, in or out only.

Will do, thanks.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2015 7:44 am

ChrisS wrote:
SWPaDon wrote:Pulled out is on all the time (manual). Pushed in is the cycling with the heat (automatic) from the stove. Do not put it in the middle, in or out only.
Will do, thanks.

Glad to help. I have 2 of those here, 1 on my unused oil furnace, and 1 on my coal furnace.

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2015 8:56 am

[/quote]
Glad to help. I have 2 of those here, 1 on my unused oil furnace, and 1 on my coal furnace.[/quote]

What's odd is that I cannot recall how it has been set all winter. I assume it was pushed all the way in, but when I started tinkering with it yesterday, after hearing of a switch, I honestly do not remember where it started. I'll be curious to see if this eliminates the issue I began questioning. All other variables are good. Draft, heat, flame, and so on. I just did not want the blower to falter in such a short time.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2015 11:03 am

I'm fairly certain that the switch being in the middle was your problem.

If memory serves me correctly, I tried the same thing years ago, and I believe I experienced the same thing you did.

ChrisS · Post by **ChrisS** » Wed. Mar. 18, 2015 12:05 pm

I pulled out my manual, and it said pulled out is automatic and pushed in is manual. I did both and confirmed.

Koker Owners Question

Attachments