Baro Damper Malfunction

heatwithcoal · Post by **heatwithcoal** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 7:56 am

Woke up this morning to coal smell in the house. I went to the stove in the basement and the baro damper was wide open. I looked at the CO detector it was at 42ppm.

Anybody else experience this?

I have a baro damper that just has a threaded rod with a weight on the inside but it seems like the RC type is very popular on this site. Should I be looking at getting one of these? Is there any major differences between these two types?

Thanks for any info.

Mark

Post by **coaledsweat** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 8:07 am

The one on my oil burner sticks once in a while. Make sure the unit works freeley without hanging up througout its movement range. Sometimes a gust of wind can force it further than it normally will go and the plate may stick on something in the mounting ring.

heatwithcoal · Post by **heatwithcoal** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 8:32 am

So how much monitoring is required? How do you know if your oil burner damper gets stuck?

Is there a difference between the screw/weight damper type that I have and the RC type?

I am suddenly feeling a little gun-shy, what if this happened in the midde of the night? I have 4 CO detectors in the house but I really don't want to end up outside at 3 in the morning.

Thanks,

Mark

Jerry & Karen · Post by **Jerry & Karen** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 8:41 am

Hi Mark, The problem with the one you have is that the threads get go bad from the coal ash and you can no longer adjust. The bt/rc is a better baro.
Jerry

Matthaus · Post by **Matthaus** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 9:39 am

Hi Mark, better safe than sorry.

I would recommend replacing your barometric damper immediately with an RC or Field Controls unit. I clean and lubricate mine with a little WD or equiv every month.

Cheap insurance and definitely worth the peace of mind.

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 9:49 am

The RC pivots on what looks like 2 small nails. I had a problem with mine once where it got stuck, the tab that extends through the cut-out in the frame got stuck. I bent it a little and checked the movement of the flap from fully open to fully closed to make sure it didn't hang up again.

heatwithcoal · Post by **heatwithcoal** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 9:52 am

That is my plan today. Thanks for the advise.

Is the thread issue the only difference? Do they setup and operate the same otherwise?

Mark

Matthaus · Post by **Matthaus** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 9:54 am

The manufacturers instructions will tell you how to position the balancing device or weight to achieve the correct draft. Having a draft gauge or manometer is always best though.

heatwithcoal · Post by **heatwithcoal** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 10:28 am

The baro that is presently installed is a field controls b-34jt
**Broken Link(s) Removed**The instructions say to basically adjust the counter balance closer to gate for low draft setting and further from the gate for a high draft setting. Does the RC offer a more high-tech calibration method than this?

I do have a manometer and my readings are .02-.03 both in the stove and in the pipe on the stove side of the baro, but the stove is not cranking by any means.

Mark

Matthaus · Post by **Matthaus** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 10:37 am

The Type RC Field Controls is what I recommend. I posted a pic of my set up on the inside unit. It has a scale on the bracket where the weight attaches and you can use that as a guide. Using the manometer or draft gauge can then verify the setting at both high and low fire (preferable on a cold day!).

Sorry for the blurry pic, was in a hurry and didn't use the flash.

heatwithcoal · Post by **heatwithcoal** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 10:51 am

Thanks a bunch for all your help. I just talked to my brother who installs boilers and he has a couple RC's on his truck

CoalHeat · Post by **CoalHeat** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 12:55 pm

The RC seems to work well. As I said, the only problem was the tab and cut-out to limit the flaps travel needing adjustment. The tab got stuck at the end of the cut-out.

coal berner · Post by **coal berner** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 1:16 pm

Testing

heatwithcoal · Post by **heatwithcoal** » Sun. Oct. 28, 2007 1:37 pm

Thanks for all the images and suggestions. Definitely more high tech than what I am using.

I will be putting one of those on in the next day or two.

Always learning.

Mark

Baro Damper Malfunction

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