Domestic Hot Water Coil in Koker

 
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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Tue. Oct. 04, 2011 4:45 am

EarthWindandFire wrote:would copper make a better hot water coil
Copper isn't used because of the corrosive nature of coal. Trust everybody....when the blue ladies came dancing there is pa-lenty of heat transfer.

I agree, I think you've got a lot of coil there.

If your domestic water comes from a well, that expansion tank will receive the expanded water. If you are on city water, and have a backflow preventer, you will need to add an expansion tank.

I dunno if I'm in love with fittings inside the stove. I think the factory ones purposely have all fittings outside the burn box. If you need the sharp elbow in the stove, tig weld 'em up and then put the fittings out side. Those fittings... I trust they are 100% metal? What I want to say is, I would have none of the sharkbite fittings in this line. Their max temp is 200F. You could easily exceed that.


 
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Post by LiftedAWDAstro » Tue. Oct. 04, 2011 7:37 am

Thanks Freddy. The fitting are 100% SS Swagelok high pressure hydraulic. I can't imagine they will be a problem. I will have a prv on the hot side of the coil as a safety as well as shut off valves between the tank and coil.

I am on city water but do not have a backflow preventer unless it is in the meter.

 
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Post by EarthWindandFire » Tue. Oct. 04, 2011 11:25 am

If the potential exists for high water temps, should care be taken when selecting a solder to use?

I would imagine that using 50/50 or silver-solder which melts at 840 degrees or higher depending on the alloy ratio.

 
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Post by LiftedAWDAstro » Fri. Oct. 14, 2011 12:33 pm

Here is where I am. Still need another union and solder the rest of the copper pipes ans run the relief lines to the floor. The tempering tank is already tied into the cold side of the propane water heater and I have isolation valves to run off just propane or propane with tempering.

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jbc8000
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Post by jbc8000 » Sun. Oct. 16, 2011 2:11 am

What type ss are you using for your coil, where did you pick it up at, and how did you bend it? thanks

 
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Post by LiftedAWDAstro » Tue. Nov. 01, 2011 8:01 pm

Been running the stove since October 15th and it is making warm water. Not hot yet but it must be offsetting the propane usage. :D

 
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Post by wenchris » Wed. Nov. 02, 2011 4:33 pm

I have been using a hikoil for a few years. Want to add another but don't want to get ripped off again. The relief valve has never blown off yet. (that I am aware of they are piped to the outside, 1 at the stove and one at the 40 gal tempering tank) What I did was add a kick heater under my kitchen cabinet that turns on at 130 deg and off at 120. This dumps heat from the tempering tank so instead of wasting the hot water it heats that part of the kitchen. Trust me she can never be warm enough. Even a length of baseboard with a zone valve set to open at a certain temp would do the same. All this needs a circulator though, preferabley a bronze one. What type/size Stainless and how did you bend it....Thanx Jimmy
See Tell me it was worth it: Tell Me It Was Worth It.


 
LiftedAWDAstro
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Post by LiftedAWDAstro » Thu. Nov. 03, 2011 6:29 am

The tubing is 3/4" x 0.065" wall 316L. I bent it with a hand powered Parker tubing bender at work.

 
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Post by whistlenut » Fri. Dec. 23, 2011 9:47 am

Re-read Dewey's post, this is from a man who HAS BEEN in the saddle at the rodeo, AND has 4 females at home. We all Know the girls RULE, so listen carefully to his advice. IMO there is not silver bullet here, just good guidelines, but there is a reason many of us choose hydronics, and leave the 'hot air' to the politicians............ :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea:

 
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Post by SMITTY » Fri. Dec. 23, 2011 3:06 pm

My setup works fairly well, although the stove needs to be really cranking in order to get the most out of the coils. I had measured the total length years back - I forget what it was ... maybe 16' total? 3/4" 304SS.

I've had boiler water pretty close to 300° - only time I've ever seen my PRV dripping. Was 284° water in there according to the oil boiler's digital aquastat. Makes REAL good hot water at those temps! Same with the baseboards in the TV room - like little coal heaters behind the couches. Never blown the PRV completely though. Not yet anyways. :D Can always tell when it's getting real hot by the smell - smells like baking bread almost. It's the gas coming out of the air valve above the air separator that the expansion tank screws into. You smell it the minute you walk in the door ... then you hear the thing hissing & spitting. That means time to bleed the heat off into the indirect boiler! :lol: That only happens when I'm running the stove real hot when it's up in the upper 40's or higher outside. Normally the TV room baseboards keep the heat in check.

My foam insulation doesn't like that so much though ...

 
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Post by LiftedAWDAstro » Tue. Jan. 03, 2012 11:18 am

Update:

Been using the coil since I started burning October 14th. It has definitely lessened the amount of propane I have used. The month of December when I have been burning hotter has really showed me a savings. The propane company filled me up November 30th and again Jan 2nd. 11.3 gallons! :D Normal in that time would be 25 gallons. I think it actually would have been over 30 gallons of propane since I have been taking real hot showers since I have been running in the snow and rain with my 15yo son getting ready for snowshoe races. We get done running and are wet and freezing so long hot showers! Have not blown the PRV yet.

 
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Post by John27elec » Wed. Jan. 04, 2012 7:30 pm

how hot of water do you produce with that coil ? I was thinking about putting one in my my Keystoker A120 furnace and run it to my steam (radiator modine heater that I could put in my garage ) its got a fan behind it and runs on a thermostat just didnt want to do it unless worth while ?

 
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Post by LiftedAWDAstro » Fri. Jan. 06, 2012 8:10 am

I don't know what temp it produces but I can put my hand on the pipe for a second. Anymore time and it's hot! I would guess about 130 - 140 so far. I don't think you'll get enough heat to even begin to heat a garage. We do a couple showers and it takes all day to get the temp back up to hot.

 
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Post by ChrisS » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 6:55 am

What's the latest in hot water coil technology for the Koker (160K)? I think I have a setup problem, in looking to explore using the Koker for hot water, at least in the cold months. The Koker is over 40' away from our water heater (electric), and the specs say I need to be within 10' to use an add-on water coil? Is it worth moving the water heater, re-routing pipes, etc.? Is there a way to use the Koker to generate hot water without doing so? Just looking for ideas, as it may not be feasible after all.

 
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Post by cn670 » Mon. Dec. 01, 2014 10:59 am

ChrisS wrote:What's the latest in hot water coil technology for the Koker (160K)? I think I have a setup problem, in looking to explore using the Koker for hot water, at least in the cold months. The Koker is over 40' away from our water heater (electric), and the specs say I need to be within 10' to use an add-on water coil? Is it worth moving the water heater, re-routing pipes, etc.? Is there a way to use the Koker to generate hot water without doing so? Just looking for ideas, as it may not be feasible after all.
Just add circulating pump from the water coil to the tank, then there is no need to move the tank.


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