Thermostat ???

Looks like I now have some work to do. I sortof thought I did it wrong when I heard air bubbles going through the circulator on the hot going out line.

Also it helps to have ball valves on each supply and return loop with a faucet (hooked to a garden hose to a drain) on the return before the ball valve. This way you can "power flush" as I call it, using full house pressure to push most of the air out of the boiler on each individule zone.

I think I did what you said. See Pics.

Frytown wrote:I think I did what you said. See Pics.

Hard to tell by the pic's, but the faucet should be between the ball valves at the very end of the return before the last ball valve. The way I would do it, coming out of the boiler hot, 1 air scoop/ exp tank, 2 flow check, 3 ball valve, 4 pump, 5 ball valve, 6 heating element, 7 faucet, 8 ball valve to boiler return. When purging air, close all ball valves, open the fauchet attached to a garden hose, open the flo check, open the ball valves at the pump but leave the one on the return closed and flip the lever on the pressure reducing valve to give full house pressure to push the air out of the garden hose to a drain. Close the faucet and all the ball valves and do this for every zone, 1 at a time. When finished open all the ball valves and set the pressure to around 12 in most cases

Well I did it in this order I know I probably will need to make some more adjustments IE bigger expansion tank possibly move more things around etc. Hot out of AA---ball valve/flange---circulator---flange/ball valve/Hose port---flow check---spirovent/expansion tank-------heater----hose port(to get air out forced)---Valve to force one way---fillpoint---back into AA
Let me know if it might work. I am not sure if the flow check is going to prevent the expansion tank from doing its job.

I also dropped my operating temps to HL 170. LL 150. Diff is 10. Still had High pressure later tonight and some water in the bucket. Hopefully more expansion will help?

Frytown, How's the thermostat been working since you've had this up and running a while now?

Well all I did so far was disconnect W2 and just stick with the stoker my focus now has been getting that running corectly then takling the thermostat again. This stuff all takes time and that is one resource that is inshort supply these days. Sewer plant took all free time up on saterday. Realestate also ties up time but this is a good thing and necessary. Don't forget the 10 month old and wife. Life was so much simpler a few years ago but not as fulfilling!

Frytown wrote:Looks like I now have some work to do. I sortof thought I did it wrong when I heard air bubbles going through the circulator on the hot going out line.

It isn't uncommon to have some air in the system when it is first fired up, but your air separator will be more effective if you mount it between the inlet of circulator and the boiler.

On a different subject, what did you decide to do about the non-oxygen barrier pex tubing?

left it there. could not get it to pull through with replaceing the pipe. So that will have to wait for another year.

Another solution would be a plate-type heat exchanger. In the meantime, add a corrosion inhibitor to the boiler water.

Will do!

Now that I just don't use second stage "propane" left the wire off at unit. I've found the skuttle humidifier won't operate? Have to find a seperate way to tie that in rather than using the HUM on the board for the propane thermostate. It a minor issue. Ill think this one over until time is available to do anything about it. Just got two more ton's. I figure about a ton a month or 40 days. We will see. Really happy this home has never been so warm this time of year. The air in the duct work reaches 155 degrees. Pretty impressive gas was only around 110 -120 on good days.

What type of skuttle humidifier do you have ? I was thinking of the electric heater element job till I found the electric used could be $100/month. And only metal ducting for one, or mold growth could occur. Picked up an old sears floor console unit at a yard sale for $10, I'll see how it works come mid December.

whole house under duct one like in the picture, I guess it works good, never had any problem, just adjust a couple times a year on the humidistate on the return air and replace the plenum once in a while, luckily my water is soft, definitely no mold growing in the duct work! My skin isnt that dry when Im at home, but really dry when riding in a car or the truck when Im out plowing snow.

Damn feels like its been forever since Ive been on the site. Kids and Work, add a wife and thats the life. Single life was so much easier, but still had no money, now there is someone here to comfort me. ha

Al Bundy is my hero.

Got the Anthrastate calibrated today, it was simple. Now set exactly at 140... Lets see if we have any difference. The pointer was well off. Just used the amount and remenents in the ash to determine where I set it before. But know I know where it is. Good to make adjustments from facts rather than unknowns .