New Leisure Line 110/165K Boiler Installation

As promised, here are the pictures the installation. I am brand new to all of this. Feel free to comment.

Sweet!

I'm envious of your headspace.

As I said before, congratulations on your boiler, its a really nice unit!

Thanks for the pictures.

Nice layout and workmanship. Pex is easy, but I still like the looks and performance of a nice copper job.

One thing that isn't quite clear to me is how you have the tankless connected to the water heater. It looks like one pipe is tee'd in with the drain, is the other tied in with the PRV?

Also, I'm not sure how effective the aquastat will be in its current location on the tankless supply...it seems like you could end up with some real short cycling with that inline circulator. i.e. If nothing is circulating, the pipe cools, the aquastat senses the drop in temperature, the circulator runs just long enough to reheat the pipe, and then the cycle repeats? Perhaps I am missing something...

If LL had this boiler a few years ago I would have bought it instead of the K6 because of the smaller footprint. Nice set-up and thanks for the pics.

markviii said;

“”One thing that isn't quite clear to me is how you have the tankless connected to the water heater.””

I too was wondering about that circulator you show going to your hot water tank.

What signals that circulator to turn on? Is your LL110K DHW coil plumbed in parallel with your hot water tank?

Are the water heater elements powered on?

Very nice install………good luck with your LL110K…….I’ll get mine one day.

I know so much less about hydronics compared to many here so my comments are limited though it seems like a clean install.

Only safety related thought is that the galvinized chimney pipe will likely rot thru in a year or so if not removed/cleaned for the summer down period. In this fine install welded black pipe or better stainless seems to be the ling term solution.

Otherwise, I wish I had one. It's a LL!

Ug

Uglysquirrel wrote:I know so much less about hydronics compared to many here so my comments are limited though it seems like a clean install.

Only safety related thought is that the galvinized chimney pipe will likely rot thru in a year or so if not removed/cleaned for the summer down period. In this fine install welded black pipe or better stainless seems to be the ling term solution.

Otherwise, I wish I had one. It's a LL!

Ug

It looks like he'll be making hot water all summer, so that should keep it from rotting, no?

kstills wrote:

Uglysquirrel wrote:I know so much less about hydronics compared to many here so my comments are limited though it seems like a clean install.

Only safety related thought is that the galvinized chimney pipe will likely rot thru in a year or so if not removed/cleaned for the summer down period. In this fine install welded black pipe or better stainless seems to be the ling term solution.

Otherwise, I wish I had one. It's a LL!

Ug

It looks like he'll be making hot water all summer, so that should keep it from rotting, no?

It should last a lot longer in my opinion, yes! no?

Regarding running in the summer, does it seem reasonable to suggest a manometer be used to set the summertime min burn rate at some sort of minimal draft?

I'm a winter guy only so not sure how sensitive a draft is when the temp is 90 deg outside.

Ug

[quote="dh1200s"]markviii said;

I too was wondering about that circulator you show going to your hot water tank.

What signals that circulator to turn on? Is your LL110K DHW coil plumbed in parallel with your hot water tank?

Are the water heater elements powered on?
-----

Yes - the tank is plumbed parellel with the coil. The elements are turned off in the tank so it's basically a place to store heated water. I believe the Aquastat on the DHW supply line signals the circulating pump to operate as needed. The extent of my understanding of all this is VERY limited. I hired two people to install the boiler. One is an HVAC expert and the other is a veteran steam fitter. Both work at Syracuse University and come highly recommended. I absolutely deferred to their expertise. They both burn coal as well.

Everyone's comments are great! Keep 'em coming. I am trying to take it all in and learn as much as I can about this unit. Before switching to the LL, I was on Natural Gas for 25 years...set it and forget it! This is actually way more fun.

By the way...the plan is to burn year round, therefore the stainless vent pipe should be fine.

johnniecuse

Thank you for the feedback. I have been on the forum in listen mode for a while and I too like you have limited background but like to DIY when I can. I’ve been off oil (2.5 yrs) since plumbing in the Rheem Marathon. My goal is to have those 4.5KW elements (lower is the only one showing any usage) drop to near zero usage.

I will plumb the Rheem Marathon in so it can be bypassed or run in series with the DHW coil in the LL 110K feeding it. If the 110K proves better cost savings for DHW generation year round I will rotate some valves to run 7/24 on the 110K and those 4.5KW elements will go dark as yours.

I have run the Harman TLC 2000 (past six years) as the primary heat source for the house about 1900 Sq’s here in southeast PA. That makes the family room cozy but upstairs runs a bit cool in the dead of winter. I have a HS Tarm-202 in the basement which I run from time to time but I’m ready for some reduced tending time of my coal fired appliances and the 110K fits the budget.

I was going to put off the 110K purchase until next year but I have had a change of mind. I’m waiting for a final price quote from my dealer down in Delaware no sales tax. I just need the final cost with the Easy Clean out option.

I really liked the pics of your Coal bin set up and the fill process; I’m challenged also with coal bin access to the basement. I have some heating plumbing cleanup work to do as well as relocating the Rheem and water conditioner eqp. to better basement locations.

Good Luck with your 110K and let us know how it is performing thru the heating season………Dick