Chubby's

 
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SteveZee
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Post by SteveZee » Thu. Oct. 13, 2011 5:54 pm

Cato,

What I would do is get some of that rust converter. It comes in brush on or spray can. It turns the rust black and chemically inhibits it from getting worse. After that, I'd just spray over it with thurmalox or another High heat paint. I know you probably can't get to it all inside, but I wouldn't worry too much about it. Looks like surface stuff anyways.

 
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VigIIPeaBurner
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Post by VigIIPeaBurner » Thu. Oct. 13, 2011 8:27 pm

I'd be a little leery about using the 'rust converting' product inside the blower chamber. My concern is that stuff seems to react into some type of paint tolerating polymer when it's done reacting. What chemical compounds the polymer breaks down into and how long it takes to break down when exposed to heat and is it okay to breath? It might be ok but that would be a concern for me.

I wouldn't worry about the rust as much as the polymer breakdown compounds. Rusting stops in the absence of moisture so it won't continue if kept dry. Blow the loose rust out with high pressure compressed air and continue with the rehab. Or you could take it someplace and have it bead cleaned, that should get the inside of the chamber clean enough. Then fire it up outside like you did the Jr.

 
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SteveZee
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Post by SteveZee » Fri. Oct. 14, 2011 9:00 am

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:I'd be a little leery about using the 'rust converting' product inside the blower chamber. My concern is that stuff seems to react into some type of paint tolerating polymer when it's done reacting. What chemical compounds the polymer breaks down into and how long it takes to break down when exposed to heat and is it okay to breath? It might be ok but that would be a concern for me.

I wouldn't worry about the rust as much as the polymer breakdown compounds. Rusting stops in the absence of moisture so it won't continue if kept dry. Blow the loose rust out with high pressure compressed air and continue with the rehab. Or you could take it someplace and have it bead cleaned, that should get the inside of the chamber clean enough. Then fire it up outside like you did the Jr.
Good points VigII, although I assumed that after being covered over and sealed with the thermalox, it would have no way to escape into the atmosphere, if in fact it's toxic at all? Most contain tanic acid but once dry (cured) are innert.


 
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Cato
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Post by Cato » Fri. Oct. 14, 2011 11:02 am

I have a wood fire going in the Chubby Jr. today ( outside temp is around 60 ) and have the 'secondary air hole' cracked slightly ... with the ash door air closed. The temp in the room is around 75-80 degree's and the stack temp is around 100. Looking forward to the first 'coal fire' when it get's cold enough to see if I can keep the temp in the room around 70-75 by letting the Jr. idle low.

 
buck24
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Post by buck24 » Fri. Oct. 14, 2011 1:26 pm

I think that the Chubby Jr. will heat and handle that size room for you with no problems. She will be tested soon enough.

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