Any Info on Summit 813 (Pictures)

 
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echos67
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Post by echos67 » Tue. Oct. 11, 2011 7:20 pm

I am new to coal, wood and pellet user trying to convert.

What say you all about the pictured Summit 813 as a way to get into coal burning, I can get it for a song basically and I cant even carry a tune. I don't think when I am ready to upgrade I would loose any money by reselling, if it does ok I could always move it out to the shop to replace a wood burner out there.
Do you think it would throw alittle heat and have a decent burn time ? I am gone from home for 11-12 hrs a day.
What size coal would I want to burn ?
Any and all information would be welcome as I know nothing so far about coal.

I eventually will get a base heater but funds are not even close right now due to a Marriage later this month.
Front Summit 813.jpg
.JPG | 74.8KB | Front Summit 813.jpg
Grates Summit 813.jpg
.JPG | 27.4KB | Grates Summit 813.jpg
Rear Summit 813.jpg
.JPG | 63.9KB | Rear Summit 813.jpg
Thanks in advance
Keith


 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Oct. 11, 2011 8:42 pm

I don't see how you can go wrong. It will get you familiar with coal burning.

First check that the ash door is tight by closing a dollar bill in the door at several locations to see that it grabs the bill. Start with nut coal.

The stove looks small so might not provide the heat you need.

If tight it should easily provide you with 12 hour tending intervals.

 
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Post by echos67 » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 6:09 am

Thanks Franco, I will be sure to check over the stove and try the dollar bill test.

 
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Post by SteveZee » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 7:56 am

Echo,

That's a superb way to get into the coal burning "habit". (It is addicting) :) The Summit looks like a cool old stove and if tight will easily provide you with the 12 hour burns you need. My Star Herald is a similar stove except that mine has an indirect back pipe on it. Your Summit is a direct draft stove. At any rate, mine will go 24 hrs at 350 degrees and not lose the fire. As Franco mentioned, check that you've got a good tight fitting ash door because that is your primary draft control area. Put a bright light inside the stove at after dark and close the lights. See if you can detect any other areas that may need a dab of furnace cement. You'll also need an oval to round first piece of stove pipe. I don't know what size area you are heating with it but you'll be surprised at the amount of heat they put out.
What size firepot (measured across) does it have? Looks like a 10-12"? Also, I can't tell by your picture but does the firepot have any lining? Usually its a refractory type clay or shaped bricks. If it's bare cast iron you might want to put a liner on. Last forever that way. To answer your coal size question, I'd burn nut coal in that stove.
Last edited by SteveZee on Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 4:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by wsherrick » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 12:22 pm

This would be a good stove to practice on. It was a simple, low cost oak stove when it was new. You need to inspect it with a critical eye. Look for cracks in the castings and make sure the doors fit perfectly tight.
My only concern about it is that it is a very small stove meant to heat just a few rooms. It should be able to heat up to around 1,000 square feet tops.
Hopefully by using this stove you can get an idea of the size you need. It will help you make a good decsion in getting the right size when you buy your base heater.
Let us know what you do and we will be more than happy to help you with setting up and learning how to operate your stove.

 
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Post by echos67 » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 5:06 pm

Now were talking fellas, Thanks alot.

I am planning to pick it up this Saturday for $100, If everything suggested above checks out. I didnt think that was a bad price ?

Just for now until I can go see Emery and get a real base heater!

Steve,
The burn pot is 12" across and 10" deep or vise versa, and a 6" oval to round according to the seller.
Whats the difference between your indirect pipe and this direct draft, is it that the indirect exits lower on the stove holding the exhaust longer extracting more heat before it goes out the flue making it more efficient and the direct draft exits at the top and you loose the heat out the flue pipe like a top exit wood stove ?
I like the bright light inside and dark out to look for unsealed areas, I will make sure I do that as well.

Wsherrick, (William I Think ?)
Do the doors on these old coal stoves have a rope gasket that can be replaced, I see it is stressed here of the importance that they have a tight fitting door for draft control and may be of a safety concern as well ?

Thanks again everyone
Keith

 
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Post by wsherrick » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 5:20 pm

No gasket on the old stoves. The doors were machined to fit tight against the stove's body. The main issue is in many cases the door latches and hinges become worn. You can have any one at any metal shop make new pawls for the latch and you most often can carefully bend the hinges with some pliers to adjust for the wear on the hinges, or you can replace the hinges with new ones. The loading door is not as crucial as the bottom door. Also ask if the stove has an ash pan. I didn't see one in the pictures you posted. A metal smith can whip out a new ash pan quickly and for little cost.


 
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Post by SteveZee » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 5:44 pm

echos67 wrote:Now were talking fellas, Thanks alot.

I am planning to pick it up this Saturday for $100, If everything suggested above checks out. I didnt think that was a bad price ?

Just for now until I can go see Emery and get a real base heater!

Steve,
The burn pot is 12" across and 10" deep or vise versa, and a 6" oval to round according to the seller.
Whats the difference between your indirect pipe and this direct draft, is it that the indirect exits lower on the stove holding the exhaust longer extracting more heat before it goes out the flue making it more efficient and the direct draft exits at the top and you loose the heat out the flue pipe like a top exit wood stove ?
I like the bright light inside and dark out to look for unsealed areas, I will make sure I do that as well.

Wsherrick, (William I Think ?)
Do the doors on these old coal stoves have a rope gasket that can be replaced, I see it is stressed here of the importance that they have a tight fitting door for draft control and may be of a safety concern as well ?

Thanks again everyone
Keith
Keith,

Yep that's the idea on the indirect backpipe. The stove exhausts into a pipe on the back that can be set for direct out (when first lighting and getting up to speed) and then you close a damper and the exhaust travels down that pipe, up the other side and out. It's extracting more heat before it hits the chimney. Mine will be burning at 400 on the barrel and only 150 on the stack where it meets the thimble.

As long as that bottom door is not warped you'll be in good shape as Will said, you can carefully bend the pins a hair to get a tighter fit. The 12" pot is between small and mid size and you'll get some heat out of her. For $100, you really can't go wrong as long as it's operable. I gave $150 for my Herald and it was in pieces in a garage although it had been recently used. I still went right though it to make sure though. Ask the seller when was the last time it was used and how it performed for him. Was it controllable (didn't run away hot) which would signify a leak somewhere.

 
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Post by echos67 » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 5:46 pm

I did not know they did not have gaskets, makes sense as to why it is so important to check the seal now. I follow what your saying about some minor adjustments on the hinges.

Your observation was correct, no ashpan I should be able to make a couple of those.

As Steve was saying, he has me curious now about the stove possibly not being lined, I will search and see what I can find out about relining a round stove.

Keith

 
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Post by SteveZee » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 5:58 pm

Pretty easy to fix Keith, if the firepot is bare cast iron.

There's a couple methods but I think the easiest is the clay type refractory. It looks like a dense clay with grit particles in it. You grab a handfull and just beat it on and into shape with a mallet to maybe an inch or so thickness. Once you've gone around the whole pot and like what you see, just take a damp kitchen sponge and wipe it smooth a bit. This just gives a cleaner surface for the ash to slide down. The other method is to actually pour a liner you mix up from powder and water. You would make a cardboard or some type mold that then burns away when you cure it with the first couple easy burns. Pierre (Nortcan) did this on his Golden Bride and showed the process in his I've got my baseburner thread.

 
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Post by echos67 » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 6:19 pm

Great info Steve,

I have alot to learn for sure, but I will keep reading on here.

Thanks for the information, I already feel alot better as to what to look for, although it doesnt sound like the $100 for the stove is the smoking deal I was thinking it would be.

Thanks again everyone, I am off to do some research.

 
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Post by wsherrick » Wed. Oct. 12, 2011 7:49 pm

A hundred dollars is a good price for a stove. Any stove you buy from an individual for that price will have to have some work done on it. If the stove is large enough to heat the area you want and has no major issues, then it's worth it as a first stove. But again, look around and let us know what you find. If you choose this stove then we'll be here to help you with it. If you find another, we'll help you with that one too.

 
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Post by echos67 » Thu. Oct. 13, 2011 6:06 am

Thank you Will,

I spent the entire evening going thru Notican's post about his Golden Bride, that is a Beautiful stove ! Still have about half the thread to read this evening.

 
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Post by SteveZee » Thu. Oct. 13, 2011 9:04 am

echos67 wrote:Thank you Will,

I spent the entire evening going thru Notican's post about his Golden Bride, that is a Beautiful stove ! Still have about half the thread to read this evening.
Ha,ha..yep Keith, that's a Guiness Book of World records candidate for a single stove thread. Chuck full of great stuff though from the pouring of the refractory to sealing mica windows.

 
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Post by echos67 » Thu. Oct. 13, 2011 10:46 am

Steve I hate to lust after another mans bride, (sorry Nortcan I can't help it your stove is beautiful), but your right, very long thread and full of great information.

Looking forward to reading your threads next, and still have to find all of Wills videos.


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