AHS S130 Coal Gun : First fire

McGiever,
Do you think mine the S260 is wired properly?

ValterBorges wrote:McGiever,
Do you think mine the S260 is wired properly?

In my opinion, both of yours coal boilers are poorly labeled, but wired correctly.

Being poorly labeled sure makes for a steep learning curve, don't ya think?

"yanche" pretty much said this was it way earlier in this thread...and turns out he was right.

So, let's label the different devices:

Boiler Control Settings
 Make sure the HI limit aqua stat is set to 180? degrees (N/C) of L4006A this Operates the blower.
 Is the operating aqua stat set to 210? degrees. HI side (N/C) of L4081B this is the System HIGH Safety Limit.
 Is the operating aqua stat set to 200? degrees LO side (N/O) of L4081B this is the DUMP ZONE.

I'm not suggesting any of the temperature values above...I'm only illustrating the wiring configuration.

ValterBorges wrote:I adjusted the low to 150 and back up to 200 and confirmed that it does not turn on /off the blower but instead it activates the taco relay switch which is hooked up to one of my zones, thus dump zone. Is 200 on this ok or 210 better? I figured most of the time that room is not being used much so dumping earlier is better gives it more time to dump before overheat? or is this logic flawed because it will dump any time there is creep past the 190 on the high limit?

I would rather store excess heat in the boiler than just dumping it to a zone. Assuming the expansion tank is large enough, I would raise the dump zone setpoint and fail-safe high limit to 220 degrees (but that's just me ). You may also want to try reducing the operating temperature of your boiler...if you can heat the house with 160 degree water there is no need to run the boiler at 180 all the time. I'm running my EFM at 150 degrees...longer circulation times, less pipe expansion noise, and a cooler basement is the goal.

Actually McGiever, my S130 is wired like Lsayre's and is just a standard S130. Yes, the wiring diagram in the manual is something left over from days gone by (IMO) but thank God it ain't complicated. UL approved or not you only have one motor that has anything to do with controlling the burn rate. The ID fan. All of those switches hence are in series with it. I drew it out on paper and got rid of the stupid wire nuts and installed a terminal strip.
The L4006A is my "operating temperature" switch opens at whatever set at (180) and closes (fixed) 10℉ lower (170℉) It isn't very accurate with it's dial indicator but works.
The L4081B has two independent switches one spst and one spdt. The single pole switch is my "o' shix high limit" i have set at 200℉ and I use the other switch as a NO (close on rise) also set at 200℉ to open a zone valve and in turn operate the circ pump.

I would rather store excess heat in the boiler than just dumping it to a zone. Assuming the expansion tank is large enough, I would raise the dump zone setpoint and fail-safe high limit to 220 degrees (but that's just me ). You may also want to try reducing the operating temperature of your boiler...if you can heat the house with 160 degree water there is no need to run the boiler at 180 all the time. I'm running my EFM at 150 degrees...longer circulation times, less pipe expansion noise, and a cooler basement is the goal.

For me it's like this

Boiler Control Settings
 Make sure the HI limit aqua stat is set to 190? degrees (N/C) of L4006A this shuts down the blower and is the high safety limit
 Is the operating aqua stat set to 150? degrees. HI side (N/C) of L4081B this is low.
 Is the operating aqua stat set to 200? degrees LO side (N/O) of L4081B this is the DUMP ZONE.

Thanks Guys I'm going to bump the dump to 210, I do have two expansion tanks a new 90 extrol and a old 30 extrol.

Do you know why the blower kicks on at 165 even if the setting is 150. Is it picking up -10 SV or is it -10 boiler temp?
Also seems the blower will run until the boiler water temp is 185. Not sure if it runs for x amount of time or +20 degrees?

Mark do you run your EFM between 150 and 170 now? I'm running it between 160-180 somewhere I read that it's the most efficient delta for heating water, maybe on this site or a link of this site.

Mark I have 3 hair handlers 1 in basement, 1 in second floor, 1 in attic. They all have a L4006A type control that is set to 140 to keep them from blowing cold air. The attic zone always seems to be cold, my psi is 18-22psi and i'm running 1 TACO 007 between the coal and propane and 3 tacos 007 (1 per zone). I don't know if it's an issue with the Lenox handler, bad circulation (been looking into variable speed delta T circulators). One of the problems is that if I keep the water at 160 and the temp drops 20 in the loop it gets to 140, so towards the end of the cycle when just idling at 160 the blower is not blowing so I was thinking running it 10+ between 170-190. I'm a noob at this so any feedback or comments are appreciated.

Valter,

The Love Controls 16C...(SV as refered) has one function......start and stop ash grate motor. It does this by measuring the temp it sees at the its sensor location. I don't know where AHS has it mounted, but generally it needs to read temps near ashing grate in the base.

"lsayer", reported that the L4081B has a built in fixed differential of 10*.

It's the L4006A which has he fixed differential of 10 degrees F. I'm not sure what the L4081B is capable of as to differential.

ValterBorges wrote:Mark do you run your EFM between 150 and 170 now? I'm running it between 160-180 somewhere I read that it's the most efficient delta for heating water, maybe on this site or a link of this site.

I am running a Hydrolevel brand aquastat set at 140/160. The boiler must reach 140 degrees before the circulator between the EFM and my oil boiler can operate, and on a long call for heat the stoker will shut off at 160 degrees. I am using baseboard radiation, so I don't have the same concerns as you with the air handlers blowing cold air. If you need the boiler at 180 to make the air handlers operate properly, so be it.

Your attic zone...how long of a piping run is it, what size is the pipe, and what is the btu/hr rating of the air handler?