Bathroom Remodeling

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lowfog01
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Post by lowfog01 » Mon. Oct. 17, 2011 11:12 am

My bathroom needs help. The first thing I need to do is remove the current steel tub. It's a tight fit so I'd have to cut it or break it up just to get in out. Anyone have any suggestions or sure fire way to break up a 1970 era steel tub. I thought of using a reciprocating saw but read on the DYI forum that you'd eat through the blades fast. They suggested using a skill saw with a metal cutting blade on it but that seems hard due to shape of the tub. I'm open for any ideas. Lisa

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Mon. Oct. 17, 2011 11:28 am

I think it is cast iron - incredibly heavy but also fragile. I got mine out my treating it to a 7pound sledge hammer (14# if your very strong) and carrying out the bits. My sixteen year old son (then) had a field day. Of course, make sure the plumbing is off.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Oct. 17, 2011 11:53 am

As suggested, a sledgehammer will make short work of a cast iron tub. If it is indeed a steel tub...get yourself a reciprocating saw and some carbide-tipped blades. It should cut through the tub with no problems.


 
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Post by jim d » Mon. Oct. 17, 2011 12:21 pm

if you're going to put a tub back in the same spot take all the sheet rock & tile down to the studs if it's a cast iron tub it's just sitting on a backer board steel will have some nails along the top in the holes they provide remove the nails reachin w/ a claw hammer and roll it out thats all she wrote

 
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Oct. 17, 2011 1:27 pm

Just remember, they got it in there before the sheetrock & all was up--she'll come out--I likke demolition more then the next guy I'd bet---BUT if you're going to go sledge crazy--wear safety glasses. I think jim d has the right plan. :)

 
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Post by WNY » Mon. Oct. 17, 2011 7:11 pm

I actually put another cast iron American Standard tub back in, but a lower one vs. the clawfoot that was in there.

Depending on what you are using in the shower itself.
I used this on top of the concrete board for great waterproofing under the tiles. its not cheap, but I didn't want it to leak.
http://www.schluter.com/8_1_kerdi_3965.aspx

Good luck.


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Oct. 17, 2011 7:21 pm

Dave, that is an outstanding product. We used it in our bathroom and it worked out great. Best of all, it is made in our area.

 
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Post by karen123 » Tue. Sep. 30, 2014 5:53 am

Faster to remove a drain with pliers than a recip saw.

Seperating the tank from the bowl makes it easier carry and safer to lift. We're saving the toilet for reuse. It's a relatively new Toto.

1. The Reciprocating Saw is not the only tool
2. You could quickly remove the fixtures without cutting them off
3. Why cut the drain? Undo the basket/stainer from the tub with a pair of channel lock pliers
4. You could remove the bath just as fast without cutting a single pipe.

 
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Post by Cap » Tue. Sep. 30, 2014 6:19 am

Cast Iron, will be thick and untouchable with a Saw Zall. As suggested, bust it into pieces. It is very brittle.

Steel, much thinner. Saw Zall will cut right through it. Use 14 tpi blades. Try keep blade straight. Buy the cheap blades but have a full pack as you will likely bend a few if you bump the tip.

 
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Post by Sting » Tue. Sep. 30, 2014 7:39 am

BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN BUSTIN UP AN OLD CAST TUB
the porcelain will shatter and scatter and fly - it turns into miniature scud misses that fly everywhere and the very sharp tiny points HURT LIKe HE!!

cover the tub with an old tarp or 6 mill plastic or almost anything you don't ever want again = THEN go after it with a sledge

Kind Regards
STING

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