markviii wrote:I have seen some old boilers covered with asbestos insulation; it was probably installed in a similar manner. Looks like a time consuming job.
It would be great if you could do another 24 test to see how the reduced stand-by losses translates to coal savings.
Freddy wrote:I was told the Axeman needs to lose a certain number of BTU's in order to stay going. If it does not lose the BTU's, then either A: it overheats, or B: it runs so little it won't keep a fire. That's why I say I think it'll be OK during cold weather, as then you'll be using the BTU's but during a warm spell, you may find it overheats.
If it doesn't work, you could do a dump zone, and loose all the heat you saved I think about insulating too, If I could run into some type of "blanket" that could be thrown over in the winter, and taken off in the summer if the fire dimishes. I have been running "good" all summer and it only ran on the timer for 1 minute every hour (unless we used hot water) and it always idles close to 180, I doubt it has bounced off the low limit on the triple all summer long, my ears tell me soFreddy wrote:I hope it works our for you. I think during cold weather it'll work OK, but it'll be an interesting test to see how it works out if the weather is a bit warmer. Axeman Anderson offers a jacket from the factory, but they discovered that it just didn't work out. I was told the Axeman needs to lose a certain number of BTU's in order to stay going. If it does not lose the BTU's, then either A: it overheats, or B: it runs so little it won't keep a fire. That's why I say I think it'll be OK during cold weather, as then you'll be using the BTU's but during a warm spell, you may find it overheats.
If their is a high limit like on mine set at 200, that the keep the fire alive timer will not bypass, if all the heat is stored (INSULATED), the times could miss a couble hours, or could go higher on the high limit, but what is the sence (mine idles near 180 with only 1 minute once an hour in the summer). I feel if it's going to loose heat any way, better to bleed it off where you want it(or don't), rather than the boiler room, the hotter the water is, the more btu's lost. I found my honeywell on ebay for $25 and a couple feet of wire, cheap dump zone, over the cost of any fuel.Yanche wrote:With proper design there is rarely a need for a dump zone. Let's use a very well insulated coal boiler as an example. Assume no demand. But heat production continues because "the keep the fire alive" mechanism keeps on producing heat. The water in the boiler is not circulated because there is no demand. It expands as it heats. Just size an expansion tank to accommodate the expansion. No dump zone needed. The size of the tank is reasonable because it only needs the accommodate the volume of water in the boiler, not the rest of the system water which is not expanding because it's at a much lower temperature.
You will need a dump zone if "the keep the fire alive" mechanism produces heat so rapidly that the resulting pressure is unreasonable. Remember at each demand for heat or domestic hot water the system is effectively reset. No BTUs are lost to a dump zone.