Fisher Wood Stoves

Hi JC,

Glad to see you are back online!

Thanks so much for all the info again. I appreciate it.
I'm ok with the firebricks, I'm fairly sure the larger ones line the bottom of the stove. We took them all out when we moved it in, but that was a while ago. As you can see from the pics I need to replace some of the bricks in the back of the stove. They are gradually being broken from shoving large pieces of wood into the stove. Since it's so big, once you have enough embers you can load some large pieces in it. Seems to work better with my home made baffle.

I had a Kent woodstove where the Harman is now. They are made in New Zealand, bought it in 1988 and moved it here with me. I still have it for the barn someday. Extremely efficient, the manual said not to use it in a masonry chimney, only metal. So I used it in a masonry chimney for 16 years. Talk about creosote! I had to clean the chimney monthly during heating season, and I set it on fire 3 times (the last time we had to call the fire dept. to put it out.....)

Thanks again.

JC

Hey wood ncoal Anytime On the Firebrick diagram they do show a few small cut ones for the
bottom and the sides I have both diagrams for large & small inserts so when you replace them
let me know I can give you the amount of bricks and the correct sizes talk to you later

coal berner wrote:Hey wood ncoal Anytime On the Firebrick diagram they do show a few small cut ones for the
bottom and the sides I have both diagrams for large & small inserts so when you replace them
let me know I can give you the amount of bricks and the correct sizes talk to you later

Thanks, JC

I have an old Fisher Papa Fireplace (pre 1980. One of the air controls on the front has the threads stripped. Does anyone know where I can get one ? It is mounted on a bolt and has 5 fins to turn it with.
Thanx,
Len

I just spent a lot of time cleaning-up and installing a 1980 Fisher stove. It is one of the "UL" ones, but I don't know the model. It has double doors and takes 18 inch wood. Try as I may, I can't seem to get it to burn hot. The air intake is a drop down sheet metal door located across the front, below the ash catcher and it is wide open, I also have the one air control which is on the left door wide open. Has anyone else had a problem like this?

Len, Maybe you can drill oversize, thread the new hole and make a new bolt for the bad one?

The air intake is a drop down sheet metal door located across the front, below the ash catcher and it is wide open, I also have the one air control which is on the left door wide open.

Could you post a picture of the stove and the air intake?

I'm attaching 3 pictures: one of the stove, one of the "drop down" air intake door from below and one of the air intake adjustment on the back of the left door. The knob on the right door is a phony with the one in the photo, on the left door, doing all of the air adjustment. As I figure it, the left knob adjusts the length of the screw and when the door is shut it pushes on the tab shown and opens the air input as determined by the knob setting. It is shown in the closed position. Screwing the knob all the way in causes the tab to push the air input shut, as well. I have no idea what the drop down door below is for, except to close when burning with the doors open as with a fireplace. As I said before, as near as I can tell, I have the air adjusted for full on and yet the stove acts like the air is set for minimum burn rate.

After more fooling around, I've realized that it won't even burn hot when the doors are open, so the problem must be in the chimney. I plan to take the inside pipe apart and re-assemble it using sheet metal screws for a titer fit. Then say a little prayer to the stove gods.

Burning fir and pine, we need to be able to “blow out” the creosote on a regular basis or risk a chimney fire. Here in Idaho we don’t have all the nice hardwoods like you do back east.

Thanks for your reply

weedguy

Len wrote:I have an old Fisher Papa Fireplace (pre 1980. One of the air controls on the front has the threads stripped. Does anyone know where I can get one ? It is mounted on a bolt and has 5 fins to turn it with.
Thanx,
Len

Try here


http://www.hearthstove.com/catalog.html

I have never seen a Fisher stove like that one. When the air inlet is open where does it draw the air in from?
Mine is an insert, the both front doors have the air adjustment knobs on them and there is a damper on the outlet of the stove that is closed when the doors are closed.

It sounds like the chimney is not supplying a good enough draft for the stove. It's usually not a problem for wood stoves. Can you give us some details on the chimney? It should burn like all hell with the doors open.

This is the Fisher manual I have, it does not show the air arrangement your stove has.



Is there a spec plate on it? If so, what does it say?

Woodn'Coal,

Thanks for hanging with me on this. I'm also talking to some guys at a shop up in Montana.

The air intake is where the sheet metal flap is hanging down as shown in the one photo. This is on the bottom front of the fire box. The actual air control is a "door" that is just above the opening shown that is adjusted with the knob on the left door as shown close up in the other photo. When the screw pushes in on that tab shown, it closes the air supply "door" which runs horizontally across the stove. When I look up from under the front of the stove there is a really large opening for air.

The chimney is about 12 or 14 feet of 6 inch triple wall through a tall attic. It is at the peak of the roof and extends about 4 feet above the roof. With the interior pipe, the total length is 18 to 20 feet. As I know it, this should be enough to create plenty of draw. This chimney previously was used for an oil stove.

Beats the heck out of me

Weedguy

Wood'nCoal wrote:I have never seen a Fisher stove like that one. When the air inlet is open where does it draw the air in from?
Mine is an insert, the both front doors have the air adjustment knobs on them and there is a damper on the outlet of the stove that is closed when the doors are closed.

It sounds like the chimney is not supplying a good enough draft for the stove. It's usually not a problem for wood stoves. Can you give us some details on the chimney? It should burn like all hell with the doors open.

This is the Fisher manual I have, it does not show the air arrangement your stove has.

fischermanual.pdf

Is there a spec plate on it? If so, what does it say?

wood that was called the Pedestal Fireplace model I have seen the Alaska one but never a Fisher . I had both Alaska
model twin door and single door model both had legs on them aswell a two fisher single door model all hnd both control knobs on the doors Never knew they made a single door knob air control with a metal plate on the inside new one to me . Even the Alaska Pedestal model had both air control knobs on the door .

I just crawled behind the stove and found out it is a Goldilocks. Does this explain anything?

Weedguy

weedguy wrote:I just crawled behind the stove and found out it is a Goldilocks. Does this explain anything?

Weedguy

Yea Mr. Fisher like bed times stories They made three sizes in the single door models Papa bear large stove model
Mama bear med. stove model Baby bear small stove model .
The twin doors where called FirePlace model Grandpa bear large fireplace model GrandMa bear med fireplace model and yours would be the smaller Goldilocks Pedestal fireplace model . Never knew only one air knob moved and had that metal plate inside .

So I've finally got something positive to say about the Goldilocks stove from above.

I took both doors to a welding shop and they drilled a bunch of holes behind each of the "air adjust" knobs. I then bolted the flap on the bottom shut, where the air intake was supposed to be. I now use the air adjusts on the doors like all the real Fishers you guys have been talking about, AND IT WORKS!!

So, if anyone else comes up with one of these phony Fisher Goldilocks, just have the doors drilled.

Thanks for the help guys.