Fisher Wood Stoves

I also have a Fisher goldilocks. Great stove, I got it from a guy that used to be my neighbor. I live in a mobile home and he was getting evicted but, leaving the trailer. He started trashing the place and I said what you doing with the stove? he said he would give it to me for helping him move.So after he was out I went and got every thing but the stove. Called the biggest guy I know, besides myself. We got a dolly and moved it across the street and installed it just like he had it.


This stove that I know of is a mobile home stove. weedguy and wood 'n coal were wondering about where the air comes in.
The air comes in though the pedistal it stands on. I have a six inch pipe that goes through the floor to under the trailer. It's got a thick screen on it so critters can't get in.I'll tell you what when this thing gets hot, its like its 80 in the whole place.

Had the stove for 5 seasons best money saver ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I HAVE A FEW FISHER STOVE PARTS AVAILABLE IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED; MOSTLY DRAFT CONTROL KNOBS(ALUMINUM AND CAST) AND SOME DOORS (SINGLE AND DOUBLE DOORS)
BOB
possomhunter@dishmail.net
719 684-3135

I have two fisher stoves that i have used for about 15 years,one is a baby bear and
one is a mama bear both single door stoves and were made by fisher stoves right here
by where i live Factoryville pa is where they were made,now out of business but it
was a big business years ago,never had a problem with either stove and it says
fisher stoves right on the door.

weedguy;

By drilling air intake holes through the front door you will ruin a good manufactured housing approved stove ! The "air door" you pictured underneath the front is actually an ash clean out. 2 wing nuts on studs hold it closed while in operation. The air control is the knob with a threaded shaft that goes through the left door, and pushes on a tab connected to the air shutter. This is the air intake. A heavy steel flapper all the way across the front of the stove when doors are open. Opening the door a crack opens the intake fully preventing smoke from rolling in. The intake air comes up through the pedistal base. Mobile home codes require outside air for combustion. A hole through the floor becomes the air intake preventing the stove from using inside air. It is like a dryer vent pipe under the mobile home. If installed in a home on a pad or basement floor, 1 inch balls were supplied to raise the floor plate off the floor to allow the combustion air up through the base. Bricks may also be used to raise the floor plate for air intake. Now you have a stove listed for use in a manufactured home that is modified to use interior air for combustion. I suggest removing the tag to prevent someone from using the appliance as it was intended. It is no longer certified for use in a manufactured home as stated in the owners manual. They are a very good working stove when installed properly. And NO air you work so hard to heat slips up the chimney through the combustion inlet.

I was trolling the web and found this site and forum about Fisher stoves. I did'nt know I had a collectors item except to me I guess.I bought It new in 83 and have used it every winter since as a matter of fact I just loaded it with hickory for the night. We dont have winters here in north Alabama like most of the rest of the people in the other post but the last week it has been in the teens at night and has not got above 29, and around 8 Saturday and Sunday night. It has a 3/8" steel baffel on an angle in the top rear, about 42" l & 20" w with double doors with thick glass in them. I dont rember the model of the stove I think it may be the papa bear but it has been 27 years ago I could be wrong It dose not have a UL or any other plate on it.I have a influe damper on it and it is in the basement and heating all three levels of the house. I am burning about a cord of wood a month at $120 a cord so I guess thats not to bad. It may be cold here but I am still bass bishing 3 -4 days a week here on Lewis Smith Lake.Looks like some good information here I will monitor this site regular now.

BB

Welcome!
$120/cord is great. I just paid $180 for 1 cord. $120 was the price here 10 years ago.
As you might have read, my Fisher had no baffle in it, I made one.

Hey Wood'n'coal and BulletBob, I feel cheated. You can't find a cord for less than $200. Some guy on craigslist is advertising $160 for a half cord of some "premium wood!!!" He's up in New Hampshire. Sounds like a rip-off to me. Luckily, I have been able to get some free wood by doing tree work on the side and collecting fallen trees around here. Well anyway, I like how those Fischers sound. How much wood do you go through W'nC? How much are you heating with it? I like the history behind the Fischer stoves. Bob Fischer sounds like my kind of guy. However, I'd like to ask if anyone knows: what's the most emmission efficient Fischer stove?

I keep about 1 cord of firewood on hand for the Fisher. Since coal is the main heat source here I no longer rip through the 6 to 8 cords per year that I used to with the Fisher and the Kent Sherwood (which was replaced by the Harman Mark I). The Fisher is an insert in the fireplace, it no longer vents directly into the flue, I have a SS liner connected directly to the top of the stove. I have the original filler panels and damper installed as well. The Fisher is not very efficient, it tends to eat up a lot of wood. I got the stove for free from a friend around 15 years ago. The inside baffle was missing or it may not have ever had one. I made one from angle iron and a cast iron floor stand for a produce bag dispenser. The piece did not fill the whole width of the baffle, I filled in the sides with some plate steel. It has been in the stove for about 10 years now. The Kent Sherwood used about 1/2 of the wood the Fisher uses and produced lots of heat. I also have the screen for the stove so it can be burned with the doors open. I would say that it is not a "low emissions" stove. Look back on this thread for photos of the baffle installed in the stove.

Check these out:

http://hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Fisher_Stoves

http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.ph ... ove_Story/

One thing for sure is that it is built like a tank and is very heavy.

I have a Fisher stove that appears identical to weedguys...it uses a 8" galvanized pipe with a damper to bring in outside air thru the base of the stove. It has a tag on it, but I can't read what it says.

It seems to be a pretty good unit, it's been the main source of heat in my house since at least 1988.
I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan in a cedar log house, we're getting a foot of snow tonight.

I go thru about 5 loggers cords of hard maple per year, and paid $100 per loggers cord (8 foot lengths) if I remember right a couple year ago.
I plan on buying another 14 loggers cords this Spring, so I can get wood cut ahead to dry.

I attended a Chimney Fire seminar put on by our local fire department last year, and the instructor said that if can maintain a
flue temperature of 300F at the tip of the chimney, that you will not generate any creosote, regardless of if you were burning pine or maple, wet or dry. He said that a chimney is basically a refinery, making creosote at around 300F. Of course, burning wet wood is much more difficult to get that 300F flue temp.

I keep my fire burning pretty steady, and have clamped a thermocouple to the edge of the stove. The digital readout of the Omega thermocouple connects to a laptop, and I have it set to alarm when the temp drops below 180F. So this wakes me up around 2 or 3am. It would be nice to have a thermocouple in my chimney....maybe someday. I wrote the software using Visual Basic a couple years ago, it works good enough to not mess with...

anyway, this is my first post here, seems like a pretty interesting group...

Ken

Hey Ken,
Keep visiting this site and we'll getcha converted to coal so you won't have to worry about creosote/chimney fires or waking up at 2-3AM to keep a fire going.

Hi,
I just stumbled across this site, and saw your post. What do you mean that you shouldn"t burn one? I have an old fisher stove that does not have any sort of label on it, don't even know the actual model. I think it's called Little Bear. I've been burning it for at least 10 years.
John

dadrider wrote:Hi,
I just stumbled across this site, and saw your post. What do you mean that you shouldn"t burn one? I have an old fisher stove that does not have any sort of label on it, don't even know the actual model. I think it's called Little Bear. I've been burning it for at least 10 years.
John

Can you post a picture of it?

those fishers are great, tough stoves that will last for 100 years if well taken care of; not like the fragile secondary burn/cat stoves that are built today. Sure they use more wood than a modern stove, but you won't ever have to buy another one. If you are someone like wooo'ncoal who just keeps it around for backup, you can't ask for a better stove for that purpose.

dadrider wrote:Hi,
I just stumbled across this site, and saw your post. What do you mean that you shouldn"t burn one? I have an old fisher stove that does not have any sort of label on it, don't even know the actual model. I think it's called Little Bear. I've been burning it for at least 10 years.
John

If you read down to the fourth post I explain, it was from an insurance standpoint. There probably is nothing wrong with the stove, it was just manufactured before UL testing and approval:

If you have a Fisher stove that does not have a label then it is usually recommended by the insurance company that you do not use the stove. On the other hand if you don’t care about the insurance company and are using in a cabin or something a good rule of thumb is to have a 36 inch clearance from the stove to a combustible wall.

Yes, they are tanks, very heavy steel, will last forever.

Here it is! Just had a liner installed in the chimney, now we're having problems. The stove will all of a sudden pump smoke out the vent on the front. It draws great, and it doesn't seem to be due to a draft reversal or stack effect, although I'm not sure. I can't yet seem to make it happen, happens usually during the first 1/2 hour after the stove has been filled with wood. I always make sure it's going good before closing down the vent. I'm scratching my head, the chimney sweep thinks it's the stove, wants to sell me a new one. Getting sick of having the smoke alarms go off, and I'm afraid to leave the house with it running. All I know is it always worked great, no problems, now that we have a chimney liner, nothing but problems. Any guesses?