Fisher Wood Stoves

Anyone else have one?

If you do, unless it has the UL symbol on the spec plate (right side of stove-as you look at the front-on the side) you should not burn it. Apparently the designer of the stove (named Fisher) farmed out the manufacture of the stove to different companies.

If you have one please post.

Thanks

I would prefer statements like that are backed up with some proof or qualified. Is it recall? Your own opinion? Known problems? etc. Yours is left open to speculation.

NEPAForum Admin wrote:I would prefer statements like that are backed up with some proof or qualified. Is it recall? Your own opinion? etc. Yours is left open to speculation.

Right again. Some time ago I did a search on the internet regarding Fisher stoves, trying to find out info about mine (which I got for free). I had read that unless the stove had the UL label on it, it shouldn't be used. Why I can't remember at this point. I will try to retrace my steps over the next few days and get the info. Once again that little voice I always ignore was telling me not to post that info, but as usual I ignored it.

Sorry for the error, I'll be more accurate in the future.

Got the poop on Fisher Stoves:

Fisher Stoves were designed by Bob Fisher in Springfield, Oregon in the early seventies. Bobby licensed the design to about 25 steel fabricating shops throughout USA and Canada. The woodstove brand took off because of the Arab Oil crisis and lots of stoves exist in North America. The stoves had a step top which was made out of 5/16" steel and 1/4" steel sides.

Safety standards at UL (Underwriters Laboratories) and CSA (Canadian Standards Associations) were pioneered by the Fisher Stove International organization. Most of these safety standards were finalized in 1980 but thousands of Fisher Stoves were built before that date. These stoves sold prior to 1980 were primarily installed using the building codes of the day. Most insurance companies are now requesting that if you are moving into a new house that has an old woodstove that it you check to see if the stove has a UL, CSA, or WH (Warnock Hersey) label on the back of your stove. This label indicates that the stove was manufactured to the USA or Canadian standards.

If you have a Fisher stove that does not have a label then it is usually recommended by the insurance company that you do not use the stove. On the other hand if you don’t care about the insurance company and are using in a cabin or something a good rule of thumb is to have a 36 inch clearance from the stove to a combustible wall.

Another reason you should consider replacing the old wood stove is the in the mid-eighties the industry developed clean burning standards. An old Fisher Stove could put out 50 to 80 grams of smoke for every kilogram of wood burned while a new clean burning EPA stove will put out less than 6 grams for every kilogram (2.2 lbs) burned.

Mine is UL listed, just wondering if anyone else has one. I made a baffle for the firebox to help lengthen the burn time and extract more heat from the burn.

Quote Mine is UL listed, just wondering if anyone else has one. I made a baffle for the firebox to help lengthen the burn time and extract more heat from the burn.
Hey wood n coal the two I had already had baffle Plate in them did yours have one when you got it or waist there one in there

Mine did not have a baffle, the fire went right up the chimney. I made a baffle for it. When I have time I'll take photos and post them.

John

Hey wood ncoal is there any welded brackets in there back by the flue
because everyone that i ever saw had a baffle I had two Fisher and two
of my friends have them they all had baffle Even my two Alaska had
them What might of happend was that it got warped
which is a common thing when burning to hot and was

taking out by the Person that had it before you It will make a big
differents haveing one in there it will help slow the burn time down that is
a lot of heat going right up the chimney

Hey JC,

Mine has the damper on the outlet (it's an insert, not free standing), operated by a push/pull handle on the right side.

I mean a baffle in the firebox.

Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

Before the weekend is out, I'll post pictures.

JC in NJ

Yes i know what you mean it is a baffle plate that is inside at the top back
of stove if it ever had one you will see 2 to 4 welded tabs 2 high 2 low the
plate sits in them is you flue top or out the back

The flue is on the top.

I got the stove for free from a friend who used it in his barn. I don't know where he got it, he's moved to Virginia since and I have lost touch with him.

Don't see any tabs in the stove for a baffle, I'll post pics soon.

Thanks, JC

Hey JC

Here's the pics of the stove, with the baffle I made out of angle iron, with a cast floor stand in the middle. Two pieces of steel fill the gaps on each side of the stand. We just make sure to push the wood all the way to the back. There's no collar on the stove, it just exhausted into the chimney, It had a baffle to direct the flow away from the steel filler panels. When I had the liner installed, I removed the baffle and there is a cast adapter sitting on top of the stove that provides a collar for the liner to sit on. It had to be cut on the ends for the shaft that operates the damper.

More Photos. I don't remember the model name (Papa Bear, Mama Bear, whatever).

Yep I had one like that plus i had single door model they made Baby bear
MaMa Bear and Papa bear The Baby bear took 22" logs the Mama took
24" And the Papa took 30" logs ALASKA Made them to I had Two of them
has well They were called KODIAK They made a small single door model

called KLONDIKE IKE it was 357lbs Height 30 1/2" Width 19 1/2" Depth
32" Top Flue 33" Legs 8" Burn time 11-13 hrs. up to 2.300sq.ft. They
also made a Large and medium model Stove large was 415lbs 30 1/4"
Heigh 18 1/4 wide Depth 39" wood length 30" Burn time 12-14 hrs. up to

2.500 sq. ft. 6 1/8" legs 29 1/4" to top of flue this was the same size as
the Papa bear The Medium was 350lbs 30 1/4 " Heigh 16 1/4" wide Depth
34" took 24" logs burn time 10-12 hrs. up to 2.000 sq.ft. legs 6 1/8 " 29
1/4" to top of flue both of these had the flue out the back ALASKA also

made Double door models Large & small Pedestal Fireplace 510lbs 33
1/4" Heigh 29" wide 29" deep 24" logs
burn time 12-14 hrs. up to 2.500sq.ft. 33" to top of flue both top and rear
flue The small one was 390lbs 30 1/4" height 27 1/2 wide 28 1/2 deep 22"

logs 8-10 hrs. burn time up to 1.800sq.ft 29 1/2" to top of flue either top
& rear flue They also made A large & small FirePlace Non PEDESTAL
Model these would be the same as MaMa bear & Baby bear Large 455lbs
30 1/4 " height 29" wide 29" deep 24" logs 12-14hrs. Burn time up to

2.500 sq.ft. 6 1/8 " legs 30" to top of flue Large units was Avallable with
built-in Blowers and/or Cathedral Glass Doors and you could get a
viewing screen The small one 345lbs 27" height 27 1/2" wide 28 1/2
deep 22" logs 8-10 burn time up to 1.800 sq. ft. 6 1/8" legs 26" to top of

flue I had 2 Fisher's over the years 1 Papa 1 Mama also had 2 Alaska
large stove single door and a large Double door FirePlace Model with a
blower and viewing screen you would open the doors and snap in the
screen it had a top flue the baffle plate was like yours the single door was

a back flue the baffle Plate was on a Angle top to bottom back over the flue
I still Have the Manual for them I used them for the first two years
when i bought the house then I went to coal my first coal stove was
A 1979 Alaska Kodiak it was a big unit one of the first ones they made it had

2 air knobs on the loading door one knob below the grates and a sliding
knob on the ash door you could take off the middle knob and Hook up a
blower fan to force air in under the grates to make a hot Air furnace out
of it if I remember right the Heigth was 47 1/2" the Width was 27 1/2 the
Depth was 43" it was Heavy 800lbs or so Talk to you later time for bed

Hi JC,

Thanks for all the info an the Fisher stoves. I'll have to measure this one to determine the model. As you saw, I angled the baffle as well, it just seemed like a good idea. I didn't want to go too close to the front or the combustion would spill out into the room when we opened the doors. I don't see any welded brackets for the baffle inside the stove, could be the baffle rested on the angle iron that holds the firebricks. There were probably a lot of minor changes made in the stoves by the different companies that made it. I'm going to clean the spec plate to see if I can get more info off of it. I have the viewing screen for it. All I can say is this is a very heavy stove. I got it around 1994 or so and we had a hell of a time moving it. I'm not planning to replace it, it is good for what we use it for. The Harman is in the dining room, on cold days the living room gets chilly, esp. since it's on the north side of the house, a nice wood fire warms the room up, and my wife likes to open the stove up and use the screen. Before I got the stove using the fireplace was I great way to get every room but the living room cold, it's so large that I had to get a huge fire going to get some heat! The sides of the fireplace have diamond plate steel, you can see where there were heat vents, but inside the space I could see the inside of the exterior of the house. Lots of cold air. I made little covers to fit inside the vents. The filler panels on the sides of the stove are about 1" short on each side, I get cold drafts out of there too, I have to close that up as well. So many projects, so little time, so tired!

Thanks again for taking to time to write all that info.

JC in Stillwater[/img]

Hi wood ncoal I forgot about the inserts models here you go these will before both Fisher & Alaska
coal/wood Insert Specifications minimum Dimension required width 32 1/4" Height 24 3/4" outside
inside 16 1/2" Depth 29 1/4" width 24" Height FirePlace Insert cover plates coal/wood Insert Standard 44" W x 33" H Extra Large 52" W x 37" H I can't find the stove Insert Specs. sheet page right now i will look for it later I did find the Firebricks layout page Plus the Baffle Plate Installation
it says Slide baffle plate A thru side channels B with baffle plate cuved up as shown End of baffle plate to rest on top of angel C in back of stove Don't know if any of this helps you but I thought you would like to read it Oh as far as the Firebricks Layout It shows to sizes large & small Insert the numbers of bricks and the sizes and how to lay them in if you need info on them PM me And I will explain them Talk to you later