A Nice Score

 
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Smoker858
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Posts: 212
Joined: Tue. Nov. 03, 2009 1:29 pm
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Baseburners & Antiques: Reading Stove Works Penn circa 1900
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: nat gas

Post by Smoker858 » Mon. Oct. 31, 2011 10:54 pm

I will try your method once I see how my current plans track with outside temp, stove temps and the wifey factor.
Thank you for the data.


 
musikfan6
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Location: Lititz, PA

Post by musikfan6 » Mon. Oct. 31, 2011 10:55 pm

EarthWindandFire wrote:That's a great stove!

They can produce up to 100,000 BTU's and retail for about 2500 dollars.
Good Grief!! What's it like to have a stove that produces 100,000 BTU's?? Mine only puts out maybe 40,000 to 45,000. Mine is plenty hot right now. I can't even imagine what that must be like. However, it's nice to know that a stove is capable of that. Sounds like a great stove if you live in the Great Lakes or in Alaska!! :)

 
CapeCoaler
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Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Post by CapeCoaler » Mon. Oct. 31, 2011 11:38 pm

My DS Machine Basement #4 is rated 130k btu/hr... :D
Holds 160-180# of coal...
More coal on the grates produces the extra heat at the same temps...
Or longer burns at lower temps...
My stove runs between 180* and 600*...
Just a leaky poorly insulated house on The Cape... :roll:
But I get the coal for cheap... ;)

 
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I'm On Fire
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Location: Vernon, New Jersey
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machines DS-1600 Hot Air Circulator

Post by I'm On Fire » Tue. Nov. 01, 2011 11:07 am

CapeCoaler wrote:My DS Machine Basement #4 is rated 130k btu/hr... :D
Holds 160-180# of coal...
More coal on the grates produces the extra heat at the same temps...
Or longer burns at lower temps...
My stove runs between 180* and 600*...
Just a leaky poorly insulated house on The Cape... :roll:
But I get the coal for cheap... ;)
Same here Cape, I'd be lost without my DS.

 
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Smoker858
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Posts: 212
Joined: Tue. Nov. 03, 2009 1:29 pm
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Baseburners & Antiques: Reading Stove Works Penn circa 1900
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: nat gas

Post by Smoker858 » Tue. Nov. 01, 2011 4:06 pm

A few Questions concerning the HITZER 50-93 serial number WH-004763

1. Can we tell what year it was fabricated?
2. I have an extra part left over. It is 3 3/4" wide x 27" long see attached pic.
3. The hopper appears not to be removable, however there seems to be a lower skirt bolted onto the hopper bottom.
4. See pics
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HITZER 026.JPG
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CapeCoaler
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Posts: 6515
Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
Location: Cape Cod, MA
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Nov. 01, 2011 7:40 pm

The hopper not removable will make it at least 4 years old...
A baffle from...
The other hitzer owners will tell ya...
Looks good...
Keep warm...

 
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freetown fred
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Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Tue. Nov. 01, 2011 10:50 pm

extra part goes under front door on the outside of stove, should be clips up there. bolted on thingy is the hopper boot--don't ask me why they call it a boot, I think it has 4 bolts--mine only has two, one on each end--some idiot wood burner melted the front & back of hopper right up to the bolt holes--still works fine. You've got an outstanding stove there my friend. :) Yes, I only use an MPD & find I get maximum performance with it. Go back to fastcats post


 
buck24
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Location: NEPA/Pittston Twp. PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: New Buck Corp. / MODEL 24 COAL
Coal Size/Type: Pea, Nut / Anthracite

Post by buck24 » Wed. Nov. 02, 2011 12:38 am

freetown fred is right about the extra part, its an ash shelf or dust catcher :) You can see the two clips for it right under the ash door in your pictures of your stove. That stove should keep you warm and happy all winter long. You have a nice set up there. Hitzer makes a good product.

 
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Smoker858
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Joined: Tue. Nov. 03, 2009 1:29 pm
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Baseburners & Antiques: Reading Stove Works Penn circa 1900
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: nat gas

Post by Smoker858 » Wed. Nov. 02, 2011 1:29 am

Thank you for the great suggestions and answers. This is one HOT stove.

I will be getting the MPD to slow it down.

 
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SteveZee
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range

Post by SteveZee » Wed. Nov. 02, 2011 7:55 am

Make sure you've got no air leaks (gaskets are all good and seal correctly) When you got a "hot stove" you should be able to calm it down with it's own controls. The MPD really serves to keep more of the heat in the house versus up the chimney. Yes it will slow draft some but primarily it's for the former. Looks like a nice unit and in pretty good shape too.
Last edited by SteveZee on Wed. Nov. 02, 2011 9:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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fastcat
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Location: CNY (McGraw)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Nut/Stove Mix

Post by fastcat » Wed. Nov. 02, 2011 9:41 am

SteveZee is right on the money, if you can't idle the stove down to 180* - 200* with just the dial on the back then you are getting air from someplace. Check the air slide in the ash door, should be snug fitting if not adjust the knob screw in the center to tighten it up. Also check the flap in the rear and make sure it lays on the opening totally flat, adjust if needed. The grate shaker end coming through the stove, if you get a washer with a 1" hole in it then file it to fit the flats on that knob and slide it up against the stove. This will eliminate the hot spot in the coal bed on the left side. Now if the stove still won't idle down start changing the gaskets, I had to change mine after a year and a half of burning because they were leaking. Summer storage per member Oliver Power, he says to leave the doors open or take them off to preserve the gaskets. Hope this helps

 
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Smoker858
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Posts: 212
Joined: Tue. Nov. 03, 2009 1:29 pm
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Baseburners & Antiques: Reading Stove Works Penn circa 1900
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: nat gas

Post by Smoker858 » Fri. Nov. 04, 2011 7:55 am

ok so the first firing went well sortof. The house was 90 degrees, stack @ 350 F and the stove was out of control with the front damper closed and the thermostat (bimetallic) turnd all the way down. Obviously gasket and damper leaks.

So last night instaled all new gaskets, tightened the front slide damper and installed a .093 x 2" diameter teflon seal over the shaker shaft.

Before the new gaskets and damper adjustment the Manometer read 1" wc with everything "closed" but leaky. Now reads 0.

The single front window gasket came from http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com It has a self adhesive backing and it stays put when installing the glass back into the door frame. It is flat, 1" wide and wraps nicely at the perimeter of the glass.

Looking gooda.

I purchased the teflon seal (disk) off Ebay, a pack of 20. If anyone wants to try it LMK and I will drop one in an envelope. You need to cut out the solid center to fit the square shaft.

So tonight I expect to fire up and idle aroung 150 F. Freetown Fred - thanks for the ash lip info.

I will install the MPD at a later time perhaps, still thinking about that one.

Thank you all for the great support, I really like this stove already

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Nov. 04, 2011 8:25 am

If your main door doesn't pass the dollar bill tightness test after installing new gasket--take a small sledge (1 1/2 lb) & bang the door latch pin back towards the stove--keep door wide open if you need to do this. ;) Sounds like you're on a roll my friend. :D Keep us posted. PS---sometimes I have lil pieces of coal (real little) get under the hopper door flat area--just saying.
Last edited by freetown fred on Fri. Nov. 04, 2011 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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SteveZee
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Post by SteveZee » Fri. Nov. 04, 2011 8:27 am

Yep, it's going to be much better (read more controlable). 150 degrees might be pushing things a bit on the low side as you could lose the fire, but it really depends on your individual set up. My cookstove in the kitchen will run down that low, but the cylinder stove , about 225 is as low at it ever gets everything closed up. As long as you can control the fire, you've fixed the problem. As you've seen (by the 90 degrees) it has plenty of omph to heat the house when needed. ;)

 
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Smoker858
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Posts: 212
Joined: Tue. Nov. 03, 2009 1:29 pm
Location: Parsippany, NJ
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Baseburners & Antiques: Reading Stove Works Penn circa 1900
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: nat gas

Post by Smoker858 » Fri. Nov. 04, 2011 8:46 am

Fred,
I have a small paint brush to sweep the coal crumbs off the flat surface.
Boy Scout motto


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