Larger Blower Motor?

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Ed
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Post by Ed » Thu. Nov. 01, 2007 8:10 am

Since burning coal and trying to heat our homes the cheapest way possible has become a winter time hobbie for many of us. I would like to know what you guys think. I have an Alaska Stoker (cast console I think), would it be feasible to use a larger blower (like one from a hot air furnace) to replace the small squirrel cages to move the air in my ductwork with more force, or would it cool the air by moving it too fast?? I have my stove piped into this ductwork now and the heat only trickles out of the registers farthest from the stove. Anyone try this?

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Thu. Nov. 01, 2007 8:23 am

Depending on the size of the blower, I think it would cool it too fast and just blow cooler air. You might be able to go a little bigger on the stove fan, sometimes they have an option for a slightly higher flow fan. You should look at your current CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating of your fan, most of the stoves have 265-350CFM on them, some have optional 350-450cfm blowers.

but they are generally designed to give max. performance for the intended use. But of course, many of us are putting the stoves to newer uses and need to improve the designs and flow rates.....

How about an INLINE Duct Fan(s) in the farthest pipe to help pull the air thru the pipe, you can hook it up to a duct thermostat and it turn on/off when needed? There has been numerous discussions on here about that.

 
bksaun
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Post by bksaun » Thu. Nov. 01, 2007 8:41 am

Ed,

This is how mine works, My stove fan on my Alaska Channing is ducted into my cold air return, it runs all the time and charges my duct work with hot air.

On my forced air furnace my honeywell thermostat has a feature that I can set my furnace fan to circulate, this runs the fan off and on every 20 minutes or so and it keeps the house an even 74 degrees. I use a Coal-trol on the channing.

One important thing to remember is to do this, you must pipe your hot coal stove air into the cold air return on the furnace, that way when the furnace runs it is pulling hot air from the coal stove. If you duct your stove into the hot air side (high presure side) of your furnace, when it runs you will be pushing hot air backward's through your stove. Hope this makes sense. This system has worked very well for me.

Another plus to this is all the heated air go's through the furnace filter before going upstairs, keeps the dust down.



BK


 
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Devil505
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Post by Devil505 » Thu. Nov. 01, 2007 1:40 pm

WNY wrote:Depending on the size of the blower, I think it would cool it too fast and just blow cooler air. You might be able to go a little bigger on the stove fan, sometimes they have an option for a slightly higher flow fan. You should look at your current CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating of your fan, most of the stoves have 265-350CFM on them, some have optional 350-450cfm blowers.

but they are generally designed to give max. performance for the intended use. But of course, many of us are putting the stoves to newer uses and need to improve the designs and flow rates.....

How about an INLINE Duct Fan(s) in the farthest pipe to help pull the air thru the pipe, you can hook it up to a duct thermostat and it turn on/off when needed? There has been numerous discussions on here about that.
I had a 6" duct blooster fan which I bougbht last year & just threw it away.
Not worth the annoying racket it made!

 
Ed
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Post by Ed » Thu. Nov. 01, 2007 8:09 pm

bksaun,
What model thermostat do you have. Mine will only run the fan constant(honeywell 7 day programable). I tried what you have before and it didn't seem to work. I even tried changing the speed on the blower of the furnace. You're right about having it ducted into the supply side of the duct work, that's how mine is, when the propane kicks on it blows back to the coal stove, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

 
bksaun
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Post by bksaun » Thu. Nov. 01, 2007 8:58 pm

Honeywell Vision PRO 8000

BK

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