Year 4 With a DVC-500 Not Off to a Good Start... Help!

 
coalnewbie
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Post by coalnewbie » Thu. Dec. 15, 2011 5:20 am

so I could load the stove into the back of the truck and drive it to Halifax, PA where I would drive through their front door smashing into the reception area, shift into first and fishtail/drive through cubicle land until I reached their tech support and engineering group where I would get out of the truck and politely ask them to grab their ears and pull their collective heads out of their arse's so they could assist me with my minor customer support issue! Anybody wanna ride shotgun!?
At last-- sooo refreshing, I thought you were all ready to play dead, as long as you have a steak and kidney pie for the trip (arses is a give away). This is not the American way now. You play dead, accuse somebody of having too much coffee if they complain, regrease the back side and bend over for the next customer. It's a new America we must all adjust.


 
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ablumny
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Post by ablumny » Thu. Dec. 15, 2011 4:05 pm

update
In contact with a Tech supervisor at Harman who sent me a bunch of intresting procedures tied to testing draft that a qualified tech would use to diagnose this thing but they require a draft meter I don't have. He is contacting the Regional Mgr for assistance on this matter.

Should I buy a Reading or Leisure Line stove? Anyone want to make me an offer on a 3 year old sort of functionign DVC-500? :) (not yet...:))

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Dec. 15, 2011 7:07 pm

ablumny wrote:update
In contact with a Tech supervisor at Harman who sent me a bunch of intresting procedures tied to testing draft that a qualified tech would use to diagnose this thing but they require a draft meter I don't have. He is contacting the Regional Mgr for assistance on this matter.

Should I buy a Reading or Leisure Line stove? Anyone want to make me an offer on a 3 year old sort of functionign DVC-500? :) (not yet...:))
Obviously, a draft test would be the first procedure that a qualified tech would use to diagnose a loss of negative pressure (2-blink code). Since any other diagnoses would be just a shot in the dark. Sad to say, but I doubt it's an electronics malfunction, besides,you already proved that. :alone:

 
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ablumny
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Post by ablumny » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 5:04 am

Take away the electronics and this thing is not complicated. The intake and exhaust paths are easy to follow and its not ike I have to rely on natrural draft and those challanges. Gaskets are a big deal but In both cases I'm good.... or so I think!

 
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Post by coalkirk » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 7:31 am

ablumny wrote:update
In contact with a Tech supervisor at Harman who sent me a bunch of intresting procedures tied to testing draft that a qualified tech would use to diagnose this thing but they require a draft meter I don't have. He is contacting the Regional Mgr for assistance on this matter.

Should I buy a Reading or Leisure Line stove? Anyone want to make me an offer on a 3 year old sort of functionign DVC-500? :) (not yet...:))
Buy any stove that doesn't rely on a computer!

 
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009to090
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Post by 009to090 » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 7:36 am

Andrew, not sure if this question was asked in the past; do you have all the square flue gaskets installed correctly? They can be installed incorrectly really easily, by rotating them 90 degrees.

 
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Post by peppedog » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 7:42 am

I have a DVC-500 that was showing the two blink code last year. I fixed my problem by replacing the circuit board and the pressure sensor.


 
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 9:45 am

Sorry, I just got to say it...2 blink code says loss of signal indicating proper negative pressure in fire box. Since you completely replaced the entire electronics side of this process with no results...I must repeat something earlier said...Are you sure the tubing, in-line filter and inlet port into the firebox chamber path is clear? Any blockage along the path? If no negative pressure is detected, the electronics will only do as it is designed and send a 2 blink code. :idea:

 
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ablumny
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Post by ablumny » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 2:56 pm

009to090 wrote:Andrew, not sure if this question was asked in the past; do you have all the square flue gaskets installed correctly? They can be installed incorrectly really easily, by rotating them 90 degrees.
WHAT!!!!!! I never hear of that. Never even thought about that. sure? It looked symetrical.

 
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ablumny
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Post by ablumny » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 2:57 pm

peppedog wrote:I have a DVC-500 that was showing the two blink code last year. I fixed my problem by replacing the circuit board and the pressure sensor.
I have a new board and pressure swithc but thanks

 
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ablumny
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Post by ablumny » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 3:00 pm

McGiever wrote:Sorry, I just got to say it...2 blink code says loss of signal indicating proper negative pressure in fire box. Since you completely replaced the entire electronics side of this process with no results...I must repeat something earlier said...Are you sure the tubing, in-line filter and inlet port into the firebox chamber path is clear? Any blockage along the path? If no negative pressure is detected, the electronics will only do as it is designed and send a 2 blink code. :idea:
I completely agree. All new electronics and motors leaves what you suggest. Ive checked the tube, the filter and feel Ive done al I can do to make sure the exhaust and intake pathways are clear. Im going to tear it down again this weekend.

BTW: Harman regional manager has been contacted , Im supposed to have more info on Tuesday.

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 3:31 pm

I had an electronic failure in a A/C unit - a Sears Kenmore brand. Thing was only 6 years old. Display shut off & unit was totally dead. I figured it was a fuse. Wrong. After the unit sailed out my front door and into the street, I calmed down & ripped all the electronics out. Works great now - just no temp control, but I can live with that. Cheaper than $400 for a new similar sized unit, that's for sure.

I'd do the same on that thing. Sell what works & shitcan the rest. ;)

 
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Post by SMITTY » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 3:32 pm

**DELETE DOUBLE POST** Damn slow ass computer crap!! :mad:

 
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Post by 009to090 » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 4:49 pm

ablumny wrote:WHAT!!!!!! I never hear of that. Never even thought about that. sure? It looked symetrical.
Yes. The top & Bottom of the gasket are the same (7 7/8" wide), and the left & right sides are the same ( 7 5/8" wide), but the top & bottom cannot be installed where the sides should be.
Heres a pic of a gasket.

This gasket was manufactored in Sept 2011....

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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Fri. Dec. 16, 2011 6:19 pm

2/8" difference! :D


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