Time to set up the generator

What Willis said...

You could use a timing relay to hold in the glow plug for the specified time and then start the engine.

Willis wrote:remote car starter? no wires and works several hundred feet. I see them advertised for under a hundred dollars and the have a glow plug timer for diesel trucks. the only thing would be to disable the time out on it.

Way to go *willis*

I like this idea even better than what I proposed. I had thought of a wireless solution, but stumbled on the glow plug needs.

That "time-out" shutdown can be worked around...

Problem solved....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPUSTAR-1WAM- ... 20be01974a

Diesel & turbo timer built-in

Remote Starter 447MHz, 2-Remotes up to 1000ft range

McGiever wrote:

Willis wrote:remote car starter? no wires and works several hundred feet. I see them advertised for under a hundred dollars and the have a glow plug timer for diesel trucks. the only thing would be to disable the time out on it.

Way to go *willis*

I like this idea even better than what I proposed. I had thought of a wireless solution, but stumbled on the glow plug needs.

That "time-out" shutdown can be worked around...

Just to be clear, the "time-out" shut down that *willis* and I are referring to is a feature where if you didn't get into the vehicle to drive away (hit brake peddle) in a given amount of time it will automatically shut the engine off.

Well, I believe I have it figured how to wire from 3 phase to single But now the question, do I need to break the neutral line when using the generator ,and taking it off the grid ???? The transfer switch I have only breaks the 2 hot line. From what I read, my power factor is PF 0.8 , I assume that means 80% load, its a 12kw 3 phase, so I assume that I'll loose 1/6 power in single , taking it down to 10kw, the breakers are 45 amp. Their are 5 small gauge unused wires that say 1,2,3,B+, and I forget the 5th one says, are they possably for remote start ???

Very much doubt this is FCC type accepted in the US. It is in the middle of the ham bands. Lots of crap on Ebay should not be sold in the US, either not FCC accepted or UL listed. Burn your house down and your insurance doesn't pay out, be warned.

DVC500 at last wrote:Problem solved....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPUSTAR-1WAM- ... 20be01974a

Diesel & turbo timer built-in

Remote Starter 447MHz, 2-Remotes up to 1000ft range

AA130FIREMAN wrote:Well, I believe I have it figured how to wire from 3 phase to single But now the question, do I need to break the neutral line when using the generator ,and taking it off the grid ???? The transfer switch I have only breaks the 2 hot line. From what I read, my power factor is PF 0.8 , I assume that means 80% load, its a 12kw 3 phase, so I assume that I'll loose 1/6 power in single , taking it down to 10kw, the breakers are 45 amp. Their are 5 small gauge unused wires that say 1,2,3,B+, and I forget the 5th one says, are they possably for remote start ???

Neutral doesn't need to open through X'fer Sw.

I'd guess, those 5 wires were for indicating lights or some other panel indicators

The fuel oil tank is for diesel purpose only As can be seen in the push o matic breaker box, this was an all electric house, no spaces available. The transfer switch is a 100 amp, will feed the sub pannel, along with moving the circuts I want to generate.

I plan on cementing a slab behind the shed for the gen. I am unshure if I should do it like a portable with an outdoor twist plug or hard wire. If I need to move to service it. Also ,if I need 3 or 4 wires, wire a ground spike at the gen or run in to the pannel ? Guess I will have an expert (or 2) look at the situation to give their opinion for code.

I switched the wires today, now I have 120/240 single phase When running, the hertz meter looked like it was at 60, but a meter on the 120 leg showed 118, so I bumped up the idle, now it's 121, the volt meter on the unit now shows 240. How do you read the hertz, the one that is bouncing, or the one above, looks lik it may be 61 hertz ??? I would assume the 121 should be good ,weather the hertz is 60 or 61:D

I wired a recpticle to it tonight, getting dark and pluged in a light and an air compressor 120v, 1 1/2hp , it pushed the amps over 50 with the surge, and 12 amps running. I noticed the 240 volt droped to 235 when running, might the govener on the engine need a little tweaking ??? Or could it be the short cord I used was 14 gauge, it was handy

I would just split the difference and up the volts and repeat the test to see what that does.

A little over or under voltage is okay. You would see that utility distribution is a little over or under at times, if you check it. Some people live their whole lives out on the extreme end of the grid, and do fine. It is wise to get it as good as you can, but w/ changing loads and limited capacity you'll just need to strike a happy medium.

Yeah most outlets in my house will read 114v ... others 119v. At the panel I've seen it up to 122v ... but another time 116v. You never know what your gonna get in this neighborhood.

I am still debating how to set it up. Copper or aluminum wire with nolox, in conduet or direct bury, 3 or 4 wire and ground rod at getset, do I need it in conduet in the floor joists ? How deep to bury it ? I wish I knew code but that changes like socks and underware. I will say it will be expensive, total of 160'. Do I go with 6 gauge ,or for the long run will 4 be better, 50 amp .

First off, I claim NOT to be any code *guru*...but if I may be of any help:

AA130FIREMAN wrote:Copper or aluminum wire with nolox?

Been doing this work for many years, in my opinion," aluminum wire is only as good as the hands that install it"...do it right and it's as good as copper...do it wrong, well, I think you know.

AA130FIREMAN wrote:in conduit or direct bury?

This would be a personal choice. The good and bad are obvious.

AA130FIREMAN wrote:3 or 4 wire and ground rod at gen-set?

3 wire plus a ground rod bonded to neutral at gen-set.

AA130FIREMAN wrote:do I need it in conduit in the floor joists ?

No, if cable is rated for open/exposed AND is properly protected w/ over current protection.

AA130FIREMAN wrote:How deep to bury it ?

24" to top of cable/conduit. Actual code may be less (18")...but deeper is better...up to you.

AA130FIREMAN wrote:Do I go with 6 gauge ,or for the long run will 4 be better? 50 amp

How slim do you want your margin of error? Did you opt for conduit or the direct burial?...See where I'm heading here? Better to do it the last way first.