Why do I eat fans?

Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: MURDOC1 On: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:10 pm

jpete wrote:Thanks for the tip on Grainger. You're right about the ball bearing motor. It pulls half the amps as the sleeve bearing. And 15 more cfm out put. If I get a few dollars to blow, I may order it.

Yup, no sweat!!!

Just be sure that the blower output flange is the same dimensions as your original and your golden!!! I replaced all perfectly good working 2 year old Fasco sleeve units with Dayton bearing units just because!!! Its worth the few bucks and now I have perfectly good working backup spares standing by if ever needed... Always nice to be able to make a quick change out when in need rather than having to scramble to locate and purchase a replacement when you need it the most, hey lets face it, things fail at the most inconvenient times usually, like on a Sunday at 4:00PM and an overnight low of 15 degrees!!! Oh s**t I'm Fu**ed until tomorrow...
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska/Franco Belge/Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: S.S. 2/ 144.08.02/ Mag Stoker

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Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: I'm On Fire On: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:15 pm

MURDOC1 wrote:If you ever need to replace motors again consider spending just a few more dollars and replace with a cross referenced ball bearing unit as opposed to the factory supplied sleeve bearing... No oiling required, run quieter and draw less juice at full load... Electric motor warehouse gives the Dayton equivalent part numbers for any given Fasco unit... Then go to Grainger.com and plug in the Dayton number to have a look at the specs... I no longer have any sleeve bearing units on either of my stoves, replaced them all with bearing units and am very happy with the results so far...

When I did use the sleeve bearing units I too used 3 in 1 household oil, not the heavier stuff for electric motors, I think that for such small blowers/motors the heavier viscosity of the stuff labeled for electric motors is simply too much and would actually make the motors work harder than they need too due to the greater film thickness... Oil thin and oil often is my take on it all...

That's good to know. My draft inducer is also a Fasco but it has a composite or plastic squirrel cage; probably plastic and I don't expect it to last too long being behind the DS.
I'm On Fire
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machines DS-1600 Hot Air Circulator

Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: McGiever On: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:16 pm

Whatever works for people...go for it. :)

Here's what I use...Turbine Oil. And you get can into a lot of positions cause it doesn't always need to be turned upside down to dispense. It has a telescoping tube/spout for easy reach.

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Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Coal Size/Type: PEA / ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump
Stove/Furnace Make: Hydro Heat /Mega Tek

Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: grizzly2 On: Sun Oct 30, 2011 4:27 pm

An electric motor sales and repair shop advised a friend of mine to use only electric motor oil. It was thin like 3 in 1 oil. They may just be wanting to sell their oil or there may be a good reason for it. I had oiled my Dayton blower motor with it, but the motor only lasted 3 years anyway. The bushings were still good but it was overheating. I think it may have had a short in it.

I do not recomment multi- viscosity oil for anything that does not get an oil change. I am an antique tool collector and read that multi-vis oil leaves behind a sludge as the high ends (thinner parts of the oil) evaporate. Over time this sludge actualy becomes hard and can cause moving parts of tools, like hand drills, to actually set up. Many old tools I buy have these hard deposits in their moving parts, bushing and bearings. I now use straight 30 weight motor oil on my hand tools. I suspect that 30 wt. oil would be too thick for a fractional horsepower motor with bushings.

I don't know how many electric fans I have picked up or had given to me that didn't run because the lubricant that was in them had gummed up, not solid but sticky. These little motors have very little power to get a fan started under the best of conditions and can't tollerate much resistance at all. :blah:
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30 - 95
Coal Size/Type: pea and nut/ anthracite
Other Heating: Jotul #3 wood stove in garage. Oil backup in house. Electric backup in house.

Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: Cap On: Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:33 pm

As with most stuff, small electric motors are being sourced from China. I see it in the HVAC industry. Not saying this stuff is all junk but not like the motors back in the days Berlin just spoke about. Use a few drops of light oil, clean regularly & keep the pet hair clear of the vent openings.
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator

Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: freetown fred On: Mon Oct 31, 2011 11:39 am

Just for future reference.With all the dogs here & just the concept of tracking in & out of the barn all day, I was concerned that it would not be conducive to my blower motor & I would/should be blowing it out constantly. PIA--Soooo, I took the cap/rings off the ends of my Hitzer blower motor & cut some thin foam pieces to cover the fan inlets--replaced caps/rings & walla :D When I vacuum every week--oh OK, every couple weeks, I hit the foam pieces & were good to go--when I first got the stove, a couple of little chunks of coal somehow got in the squirrel cages--I had to pull the motor, clean out the cages, mucho dog hair, barn chafe, etc.--another PIA---no problems anymore :D This all would be on top of keeping the motors oiled( YES 3in1)
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freetown fred
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
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Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: SteveZee On: Tue Nov 01, 2011 8:47 am

I've noticed that build up too Grizz,
It looks like grease but its hard and brittle.
Cap is right about the Chinese motors too. While we are prone to allot of crap, I can remember as a kid when after WWII we industrialized Japan and gave them a mega market. I'm sure some of it was guilt for nuking them and some (allot) was because we had done the industrial revolution thing and realized how polluted and resource depleting it could be. Anyways, I can remember when made in Japan was a joke kind of like China is now. All these cheap toys and crap we'd laugh about. Now, made in Japan is a sign of quality in most regards particularly in regards to automobiles and electronics. As the growing pains in China subside I think that the same thing will start to happen and quality will improve. Obviously part of it is the build to a price point mentality and that's always a compromise. (end of soapbox). ;)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range

Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: franco b On: Thu Nov 03, 2011 8:04 pm

My advice is to use only electric motor oil. Buy in plumbing supply, comes with pull out extension tube.
franco b
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

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Re: Why do I eat fans?

PostBy: 2001Sierra On: Thu Nov 03, 2011 9:09 pm

I purchased a ball bearing combustion fan for my Keystoker 90 while still under warranty. Sleeve bearings are quieter when new, but ball bearing fans are for the long haul. After one season I still tore down the ball bearing fan and with a needle valve greased the ball bearings because I cannot help myself. I am not convinced it made a difference or was necessary :oops:
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34
Stove/Furnace Model: Keystoker 90 Chimney Vent