The Tractor Thread...

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 7:56 am

NICE sd--ya know I've got some water in my hydraulics on the Ford 8N--yeah, yeah, shoulda drained, flushed & refilled w/ mineral oil last summer--BUT :roll: anyway, plow truck's down for a bit & in talking to an old neighbor--that's right, older then me--told me to dump some dry gas in the reservoir__ started her up & kept playing with my up & down lever--SOB--it is now working & the back blade does well--I just hope snow stays to a minimum for the rest of this winter :) PS--YEP, runnin the 8N IS a tad chillier then the plow truck---CARTHARTS :D


 
smokerdude
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Post by smokerdude » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 8:26 am

I lived on top of a hill in the early to mid 90s and I hired a guy to plow my driveway in December and he would never push it back very far so every time it snowed in Jan and Feb I was out on the AC WD with a homemade back blade and it would take me 5 1/2 gallons to plow the thing.....5 gallons of gas and 1/2 gallon of Windsor.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 8:30 am

Indeed-- :clap: toothy

 
jubileejerry
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Post by jubileejerry » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 9:59 am

freetown fred wrote:NICE sd--ya know I've got some water in my hydraulics on the Ford 8N--yeah, yeah, shoulda drained, flushed & refilled w/ mineral oil last summer--BUT :roll: anyway, plow truck's down for a bit & in talking to an old neighbor--that's right, older then me--told me to dump some dry gas in the reservoir__ started her up & kept playing with my up & down lever--SOB--it is now working & the back blade does well--I just hope snow stays to a minimum for the rest of this winter :) PS--YEP, runnin the 8N IS a tad chillier then the plow truck---CARTHARTS :D
Fred,I work with the little Fords every day and I know you didn't ask for any advice, but I'd like to offer a little. Ice in that hydraulic system is serious trouble if you don't do something about it. It only takes 5 gallons of oil if you completely drain the system in all three places, so it's not an expensive thing to do if you do it now. You should spend another 5 bucks or so for a new shift boot too. That's the main culprit for getting water in the oil. The reason I'm so concerned is that ice settles in the hydraulic pump since it's the lowest component in the cases. I have seen it crack the aluminum body of the pump or break all the pistons into little pieces. If it's frozen when you let the clutch out, it will be badly damaged. Another thing that can get hurt is the long control rod that comes from the lift cover down to the control valve in the pump. If the water was thawed when the tractor was parked, then froze over night, it can prevent the control valve from sliding. If the lift handle was in the raise position, and the load (rear blade) settled to the ground overnight, then the tractor is started in the morning, the load starts to raise as soon as the clutch is engaged. If the pump doesn't break and actually works, when the load gets to the top, the long rod gets bent really bad because it can't move the control valve. The lift will never work quite right again, at least until that rod is straightened. If the control handle was put in the drop position and the load was lowered to the ground, the lift probably won't work at all until the oil warms up a little and thaws the ice so that rod and valve can move again. Please, if you can find a place to get the tractor in and warmed up, drain it and put some fresh oil in as soon as possible. Jerry

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 11:50 am

Thanx for that jj, it is on the QUICKLY to do list--again, thanx for taking the time :)

 
jubileejerry
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Post by jubileejerry » Tue. Feb. 25, 2014 6:31 pm

Here's something for you tractor history buffs...it's an old Ford ad explaining the benefits of Ford's small size in the success of the war. Jerry

 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Fri. Feb. 28, 2014 4:27 pm

Not intended to derail too much but I was at the plow shop 2 weeks ago getting some parts for my plow truck. Overheard the guy at the counter talking to another customer said that they do not sell the Meyers brand of snow plow oil due to it having water already in it.

They sell and use the BOSS brand. So not to be a dummy, I bought 2 quarts and came home and drained out the Meyers that I had just put in it.

And I know a lot of guys who jus run regular auto tranny oil in their pumps.

And don't even get me started about guys who do not plow the snow back far enough at the beginning of the season. I tried to keep mine back far enough but with all the snow this year, I ended up 2 weeks ago firing up the Case 580 C to start clearing some room to put more snow. Did have the Carhart overalls on but my hands still got cold. I really do need to replace that broken back glass on the cab. Usually with a tight cab and the infloor heater, I am good with out gloves all damn day.

Rick


 
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Post by crazy4coal » Fri. Feb. 28, 2014 7:00 pm

I have owned Meyers, Western and Boss used hyd jack oil in the first two. In the boss the dealer said to use reg trans fluid. Never had a problem.

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Fri. Feb. 28, 2014 10:39 pm

I use tranny fluid in plows and log splitters - works great.

Love that old Ford ad. Must've been just before Henry flipped Ferguson the bird and stole his system. :lol:

 
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oros35
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Post by oros35 » Mon. Sep. 08, 2014 9:35 am

Guess I was a Year Off on my goal!

Got it finished and took it to our show this weekend. There was still wet paint on it as I drove it on the trailer. Runs beautiful. Hooked it up to the dyno, pulled 25hp at the PTO.
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oros35 wrote:I guess it's an addiction... #17 currently. Brought another one home!

1951 Minneapolis Moline ZASI
#492 of 515 made.
This one is different, was made for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Originally painted semi-gloss OD green.
Runs great, all numbers match, all the specialty parts that make it a ZASI are there except for the pintle hitch plate which should be easy to remake.
Little history on it, 515 were made for the Air force, Navy, and Army corps of engineers combined. Most were painted either green or grey, a few were possibly yellow too. They were typically used on air fields for moving stuff. But I could imagine what all they were used for. I've read one story of how many of them were left overseas and even some that were pushed overboard. Things that made them unique are a foot pedal throttle, foot clutch, short front axle, heavy cast wheel centers, and a different engine number with a few differences from the agricultural one. Brass tags with army registration info.
Here is what it's supposed to look like:
http://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/00 ... hotos.html

Plan is to restore it to as original as I can. It's missing the grille, battery box, and the tires should be industrial tread. It will get painted Korean War era Semi-gloss OD green.

yes it's ugly, but give me a little bit, goal is to have it restored by September 2013.
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oros35
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Post by oros35 » Mon. Sep. 08, 2014 9:36 am

freetown fred wrote:That's real nice oros---I'm gonna hold ya to that Sept. projection. :)
Guess I shouldn't have said what September!

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Sep. 08, 2014 3:36 pm

She came out REAL purty AND a work horse :)

 
Dirty Steve
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Post by Dirty Steve » Mon. Sep. 08, 2014 4:21 pm

Nice looking war time MM.

 
Mark (PA)
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Post by Mark (PA) » Tue. Sep. 09, 2014 9:24 pm

Awesome job on the Restoration! Looks great!

 
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oros35
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Post by oros35 » Thu. Sep. 18, 2014 10:05 am

Uh Oh.... Another one followed me home.

1950 Minneapolis Moline UTS. And a 403 power unit. This will be my new one for tractor pulls. Plan is to build the engine, high compression big bore. Set up for antique tractor pulling 4500-7500lb classes.

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