leisure line 110 coal boiler dumping constantly

I think it is important to remember that unless you are using PEX, most of the components should be able to handle up to 240 degree water. I believe the pump and expansion tank are the two limiting components. When my stove is sitting after a long call for heat it will rise to 220-225'ish before it starts to level off and decrease. Like I said before, part of my solution to help the problem was soldering a deeper well for the dump zone aquastat so it reads a better temperature. I remember that the OEM well was so slow to respond to temperature changes because it was so high in the iron pipe. Extending the well down 4 inches helped it to read the temperature more quickly. This helped with the dumps because if it did dump, it wouldn't dump down to 100 degrees before it registered the 5 degree change.

It would be nice to have a design change in the boiler to have the dump aquastat closer to the bulk of the water, but I'm not about to go drilling any holes in the boiler. Then if it dumped, it would literally only dump 5 degrees (heck even dumping only 50 degrees would be nice).

I have mine set on 6 turns out from all the way in and I've tried 5 off and 1 on before and always had it dumping and 3 inches wide

Siff wrote:It would be nice to have a design change in the boiler to have the dump aquastat closer to the bulk of the water, but I'm not about to go drilling any holes in the boiler.

Keystoker has an interesting solution for this...they indicate that the 4006B should be installed in a tee located in the boiler bypass. The idea is that the hottest water in the boiler will thermosiphon through the bypass, and the aquastat well will be immersed in the full flow this water. Here is a diagram to help explain...the 4006B is #6 in the picture.



Might help, might not...just thought I would share it.

Yes, I thought about doing that. The only thing is I don't know how much water realistically will flow through the boiler bypass. I have the valve mostly closed as I find if it is open it will not pull from the radiators evenly (one zone house). After my zoning project this summer that might be a good option. Might work for others.

If you try this approach you might want to measure the bypass temperature after idling for a wile to see if it actually does heat up close to the boiler temp. It sure would read a temperature change in a hurry there at least.

Siff: contact Matt at LL, I spoke with him a few days ago about the problem with the small quantity of water in the little boiler..
Matt said he has redesigned a fitting where the well is located so it reads the water temp better..
So I think he has a fix you can apply this summer when you do your modifications.

Greg L

Greg you are right Matt does have a fix in place for the hunting of the high limit dumpzone aquastat. The other problem involves only certain installations which cause air to be trapped in the fitting at the point of the thermowell.

I think I've finally gotten mine worked out

Running 165hl, 155ll, Dump zone set at ~230 with ~11 minutes off, 1 minute on, both fan and stoker at about 1/3. I'm about 3/5 of the way in on my feed screw (I used tape to set the distance, good thing with all the out fires I've had).

Ran all last nite and I don't 'think' it dumped, because the upstairs (where the heat usually goes) really cooled down. It now appears that I'll be able to increase the thermostat set point so that both the upstairs and downstairs stay balanced.

Can't wait for spring to rip it all out and start over.....

Comparing or matching someone's settings w/ a similar unit will not always (seldom) work out, as many already know, due to the many variables from one installation, to another.

One important control parameter that is often overlooked, is what type thermostat will be used and how it is setup or programmed to respond favorably when using a solid fuel. The way a solid fuel heater responds to temperature controls are worlds apart from all other conventional fuels. And generally, the boiler mfg'rs have no idea how an individual's thermostat is tailored to handle their product. The "duty cycle" feature built into many of today's common thermostats should be adjusted to take into account how excess residual or over-shoot temperatures are lessened. This is just as important, if not even more important as a properly sized dump zone.

The boiler mfg'rs. could remedy some customer issues by providing a more "coal fuel friendly" thermostat w/ each boiler sold...I'll bet it would remove at least this one variable, and make for a happier customer.

Of course, Coal-trol has tackled this for hot air units...but boilers owner's are on their own.

Hi Folks
Lots has been said, many questions have been asked and several have struggled with the initial set up of their WL110 boiler so here are a few tid bits to help:
BASIC DESIGN ITEMS:

* Draft in chimney must be -.04"WC min -.07"WC max
* Rice or Buckwheat coal can be burned with equal results, however adjustments will be different
* The dump zone is a safety to ensure no issues with slightly imperfect adjustments or installation issues (IE too small an expansion tank)
* The L6006A high limit is designed to shut down the boiler as well as run the dump zone circulator
* L6006A terminal R is common (power in), terminal B is to run boiler or burner circuit (open on rise), terminal W is to run circulator (close on rise)

TIPS FOR OPERATION:

* Please have your plumber call me before starting installation, I have found this to make things much more efficient and trouble free
* L7224C triple aquastat high limit should be adjusted to obtain the temp needed by the system (180 is sufficient for most base board designs), the low limit should be adjusted 10 to 20 degrees lower than high limit to aid in shorter recovery times
* L6006 high limit should be adjusted to dump at around 215 to 225 if dumping is considered an undesirable event
* If draft dies off when idling this will lead to erratic idle operation and possible out fires and must be solved to ensure trouble free operation
* The rheostat for the combustion fan should be at full speed unless the flames are lightly yellow during idle, it can be turned down for less air if needed
* The rheostat for the Stoker should be set at 3:00 (pointing at the comb fan rheostat) to start
* Adjustments should be made to the timer first and then the rheostat for final tweaks (stoker only)
* A time of 30 seconds on and 4 minutes off is desired over 1 minute on and 8 minutes off (the smaller the off time the better as long as on time is at least 12 seconds)
* Timer dials are not exact, use a stop watch or digital timer to verify settings and tweak the dial to match what was intended when making adjustments to ensure that you are changing it the amount expected
* The dump zone aquastat can be installed either on the reducing T adjacent to the PRV or in the supply line to the house in a a 1 1/4" T with bushings sufficient to allow the dry well to be fully submersed in the water flow
* It is important to bleed all air from the location of the dry well used for the L6006A else it will not register the correct temperature

Above all, the shop number and my cell phone are listed in the manual, please call me if you have any questions or issues, I enjoy talking to our customers and want you to stay warm!

Matthaus wrote:Above all, the shop number and my cell phone are listed in the manual, please call me if you have any questions or issues, I enjoy talking to our customers and want you to stay warm!

You would never get this kind of service from any other manufacturer!!